ALFAGTV6.COM

Alfettish wrote:Oh, so their puropse is for a more rigid setup?

If they allow adjustment of the fitting on the bar, front or rearwise it also adjusts stiffness of the setup

when did you notice this? after something major? like hitting the sidewalk sideways :) I recorded two films on my previous 75 2.0 carb before and after changing from original to superflex polyurethane bushings in the wattlink; before http://racemovie.mine.nu/moviedetailed.php?id=44585d431958b after ...

Jol,The std 164 method of holding the gear to the shaft is bulletproof. When it comes to pirating 2 oil pumps for a 116 GTV conversion,its another story.Sure,if you are prepared to sacrifice 2 pumps to get one working,ok. What I have also done is drill and tap the op of the GTV oil pump drive shaft...

You do need to remove it if you need the space for a large liquid to air intercooler :) I don't know what it is on a 164, but it's NOT simply a GTV6/Milano engine with a simple blocking plate. hmm, half a distributor then? :) Maybe lathe a bush that supports the (half) distr axle pushing down on th...

Barry wrote:Original as a template..
Its rather hard,so you can drill and cut..carefull though,copper tends to grab and snatch with power tools..

Discussed with a friend and he suggested water or laser cutting..didnt think of that. Also suggested a parts dealer from Finland, will check that one up

You do need to remove it if you need the space for a large liquid to air intercooler :) I don't know what it is on a 164, but it's NOT simply a GTV6/Milano engine with a simple blocking plate. hmm, half a distributor then? :) Maybe lathe a bush that supports the (half) distr axle pushing down on th...

Now for the down side to SDS. Installation is very labor intensive. You will spend days just making brackets for everything like the crank position sensor, and all the ignition stuff. Because it eliminates the distributor a plate will have to be made to block off the hole. However it's not simple b...

The easiest is to fit the hall type disributor of the 75..Hall will trigger all types of efi.. Second best is to use your current magnetic type distributor .You will need a reluctor adaptor..small circuit,2 caps,resistor,transistor.. Lock the dizzy and phase the rotor. More complicated is fitting a...

Barry wrote:I went to a local steel merchant and asked for a sheet of copper 1.2mm thick.
I have no idea what the grade is..

How did you continue from there? original gasket on top, draw outlines and nailfile?

Aaah,A revived topic..nice. On a S.A. spec motor,small chamber volumes,low dome pistons,the cr works out to 8.12:1 . Do remember that Euro and us spec engines had large volume chambers and high dome pistons compared to the S.A. spec. So do the math here..It should be pretty similar though. The bush...

Barry, I understand the CR would drop if you don't re work the rods, but what CR do you actually get by dropping a 2.5 crank into a 3.0 without making any alterations? Also wondering same thing :) What are the small end rod bushins made out of? Perhaps I could have ones that offset 1.84mm made...or...

Found a solution
http://www.google.se/search?hl=sv&q=2.8 ... %B6k&meta=

Like "2.8L", since I suspect crankshaft bearing failure on my 3.0 and want to read about using my original 2.5L crank+rods. Have found some reading but there is more unfound I guess.

Here's a easy resize thing, I want more pics
http://www.resize2mail.com/

sh0rtlife wrote:id probably go ahead and change out the belt while your ing there and verify its all where it should be

Overhaul the belt tensioner aswell