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I built up my 12v 3liter using Deves rings and can't get them to seal. They are chrome face.

What do you guys use?

I tried the new cylinders with oil...didn't work. Did the flex hone on the cylinders and assembled dry....didn't work. Chrome rings just not the thing?

Please help!

Scott

Speakin of air laeks.....Have you had the injectors out and replaced the seals? Are your intake boots (between the manifold and intake pipes) in good condition?

Lean misfire? I would think that would leave plugs white, but I'm not sure.

Leaking injectors is the other thing that comes to mind. Greg Gordon may be of help on that.

Is the exhaust smelling rich at idle? It may be as simple as a minor mixture adjustment.

I hope that helps,

Gunna need a big lathe for that!

Got one here! 21inch by 20 feet between centers!

Are the center bearing mounts for the cv / u-joint type drivelines using the stock soft rubber mount? Would going to a stiffer rubber/ solid mount do any good?

I have a question on this.

What effect does the rotational mass of the cv joint have vs. the mass of the stock rubber coupling? Does it act like flywheel mass? Does it cause odd bending / whipping movements?


Thanks,

Scott

Good story!!!


The part that you don't know the english for is a "shim" or a "valve shim". They are used to adjust the valve clearance.

I haope that helps,

This from my industrial experience....bad bearings and binding shafts can eat a lot of power and create alot of heat. Poorly aligned pinion and crown wheel can do that too. Put a little of each in the fray and you have your power loss. Like what has been said above, the limited slip diff won't cost ...

You might first change out the vacum hose from booster to manifold....it could be collapseing internally. Cheap and worth a shot.

HTH,

Read this article also, http://hiperformancestore.com/guiboDSclutch.htm The job is a pain in the rear. If the previous owners didn't Never-Sieze the spline joint The front can be a problem. You can remove all the nuts at the front ( making sure of where they cam from so that they can be replaced in ...

My German isn't all that good. Worse than poor, really. Do you have a link in english?

Why they keep sticking them in front wheel drives, I'll never understand .

Because they are "safer" ....

what a bunch of hooey.....learn how to drive. (I figgure the crowd reading this knows how to drive...comment aimed at the general public that doesn't and isn't willing to learn)

Magnafluxing will show cracks only. It doesn't show age or fatigue or thinning (streching). There are no tests, destructive or non destructive, that will show you when a part will fail. All we have is cycle testing done to failure of new parts that give some idea of lifetime and rev limits....that w...

too funny


Have fun with that thing!

A junkyard/breaker/recycler could be your friend... a known bad caliper could be bought on the cheap and used for fitting / checking for size, etc.