Whoa, I don't pay attention for an evening and suddenly there's an explosion of activity!
Grant/Potenziato: Thanks for posting/providing the effective spring rates for the T-bars!
![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
That's handy information and saves me much time in calculating...
In general I think I'm starting to get a bit confused with this whole concept again. I thought I was getting a good handle on it, but it's sliding away from me. We've got suggestions to leave well enough alone, tighten the front, tighten the rear, modify spindles, change UCA angles...
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
All of it fun, but half of it seemingly contradictory.
I think the main thing we were attempting to figure out is how to best mitigate dynamic camber loss.
If that is the biggest problem with the front end, as postulated by a number of wise folks, then the suggestions to 'tighten' the front should work to counter understeer by eliminating some roll and thus maintaining a better camber angle. Correct? However, is it possible that Grant is now too stiff in the front (no jokes please
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
) compared to the rear and is thus out of balance?
The drop spindle attempts to do reducing the chassis' natural tendency towards roll (specifically when lowered) by adjusting the geometry to shorten the front roll couple. Again, an attempt to mitigate dynamic camber loss when cornering. But I'm starting to wonder how varied the designs implemented are. Grant, are your LCAs back to parallel with the ground? Does the drop spindle design you have raise the UCA to spindle mount point?
Speaking of the UCA mount point, Mats, shouldn't increasing the height of said joint (by inverting the ball joint) make the camber curve a bit more "negative". Thus with wheel bound, additional negative camber is added (or at least some of the camber loss is negated)?
Grant, maybe reduce the amount of front AR-bar you're running as a test? I know it is not a 1:1 (apples to apples?) comparison, but it would be easier then buying new higher rate springs in the rear.
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)