So after doing some preliminary camber adjustments (~1.8 degrees negative per side up front) I think that Micke (it was you wasn't it?) was spot on about the front anti roll bar being effectively stiffer now. The car actually feels much better on tight turns and quicker in transistions, but on sweepers or any smooth long bends, the front wants to understeer even harder than before, even with the drop spindles!
The thing is, I feel that the car is actually developing more grip somehow, even though the front end seems weaker.. I'm not sure how that one works out, but at 8-9th's driving, the car feels much better with the drop spindles. The tires don't squeal as loud under high load as before, probably because the camber is looking better under load now. I'll evcentually get a picture up of the car cornering from the front.
So, if the front end is now too stiff, will lowering the RC on the dedion make things even worse? Why do people lower the pivot point on the dedion? If I don't find another way to make the rear end stiffer, I'm going to either have to find a smaller AR bar up front, or figure out some kind of 2.5" spring setup, which I'm not too keen on, as this is a daily driver.
The thing is, I feel that the car is actually developing more grip somehow, even though the front end seems weaker.. I'm not sure how that one works out, but at 8-9th's driving, the car feels much better with the drop spindles. The tires don't squeal as loud under high load as before, probably because the camber is looking better under load now. I'll evcentually get a picture up of the car cornering from the front.
So, if the front end is now too stiff, will lowering the RC on the dedion make things even worse? Why do people lower the pivot point on the dedion? If I don't find another way to make the rear end stiffer, I'm going to either have to find a smaller AR bar up front, or figure out some kind of 2.5" spring setup, which I'm not too keen on, as this is a daily driver.
BMW's are the ultimate driving machine!
I'm kidding -- please don't ban me.
I'm kidding -- please don't ban me.
lowering the RC in the rear will REDUCE the roll stiffness not increase it. So, as you guessed it will get worse.So, if the front end is now too stiff, will lowering the RC on the dedion make things even worse? Why do people lower the pivot point on the dedion? If I don't find another way to make the rear end stiffer,
You can do it now or delay it but in the end you will need to get the right springs in the back.
BTW, if you don't know why - then why do you want to lower the rear RC
Not sure what I should do for rear springs then...
As to why on the rear RC, for starters, my Watt's is all twisted up and the arms are angled the opposite direction from the original design, couldn't be too healthy I can assume. But then again, I am asking what can be gained from that modification, and not asking how to do it aren't I
I'm going to have to do a lot moree reading before I adress the rear end though, so you're right about that.
As to why on the rear RC, for starters, my Watt's is all twisted up and the arms are angled the opposite direction from the original design, couldn't be too healthy I can assume. But then again, I am asking what can be gained from that modification, and not asking how to do it aren't I
I'm going to have to do a lot moree reading before I adress the rear end though, so you're right about that.
BMW's are the ultimate driving machine!
I'm kidding -- please don't ban me.
I'm kidding -- please don't ban me.
Interesting idea with the LCA plates..How do you feel about using alluminium in this application??
Id thinka mild steel bracket instead??
Id thinka mild steel bracket instead??
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
- Maurizio
- Verde
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:49 am
- Location: the Netherlands, 153.1km from the N'ring :-)
Micke wrote:
I will try adjustable droop stops in the front. I've been warned it might not be a good idea but there are some reasons for trying it.Anyway, it is for racing only.Micke wrote:Then I'll let you think about it.
OK for a few hours back to the living peopleMicke wrote:Then I'll let you think about it. Anyway, it is for racing only.
I see, your making a the ultimate ar bar, with infinite stiffness
who said bigger is not better...
@Jarle/Barry I wouldn't trust alu with these kind of loads.
I would make the plate longer on the bottom side. Make sure you have defined contact pads to the chassis. And outside of the bolt holes to spread the forces nicer and don't create a very nasty load on the alu plate. Created by the torque due to the cornering G-forces.
Banned.. ? Daily donky.. ==> BMW 325d
E36M3 (3.0) Ringtool ==> definitely BANNED!
AR 75 TS Ringtool '90, AR Spider 2000 veloce '79
E36M3 (3.0) Ringtool ==> definitely BANNED!
AR 75 TS Ringtool '90, AR Spider 2000 veloce '79