Mats,
Good suggestion on the welded sleeve lip to prevent the sleeve from sliding through in the event of a failure.
I was thinking about using kevlar and a small steel sleeve to make a seat for the sleeve to butt against. I would epoxy the sleeve to the shock body. Then I would follow by wrapping the steel sleeve with the kevlar cloth and vac bagging.
With regard to the rsr kit, I am sure it is nicer, in a number of ways, than what I am making. If I had the money, I would buy it. (I was ready to buy the RSR kit at one point, but then I used the money to buy another Milano instead).
What type of epoxy should I use under the steel sleeve? I was thinking about using JB weld.
I would use the West system epoxy that i have in my shop for the kevlar part.
I have already collected all of the parts that I need to try this out. So please help me go about it the best way, instead of just suggesting that I bail on the project. I have already spent the money, so I intend to give it a try.
Thanks
Good suggestion on the welded sleeve lip to prevent the sleeve from sliding through in the event of a failure.
I was thinking about using kevlar and a small steel sleeve to make a seat for the sleeve to butt against. I would epoxy the sleeve to the shock body. Then I would follow by wrapping the steel sleeve with the kevlar cloth and vac bagging.
With regard to the rsr kit, I am sure it is nicer, in a number of ways, than what I am making. If I had the money, I would buy it. (I was ready to buy the RSR kit at one point, but then I used the money to buy another Milano instead).
What type of epoxy should I use under the steel sleeve? I was thinking about using JB weld.
I would use the West system epoxy that i have in my shop for the kevlar part.
I have already collected all of the parts that I need to try this out. So please help me go about it the best way, instead of just suggesting that I bail on the project. I have already spent the money, so I intend to give it a try.
Thanks
are you being sarcastic? Maybe you misunderstood.
They will machine one groove into each of my shocks. These grooves will hold a snap ring which in turn will hold my coilover adaptor sleeves.
So far I have spent:
$200 for two bilsteins
$80 for two coilover adaptor sleeves
$110 for two springs
$50 for two helper springs
$40 for snap ring groove machining (and shipping)
$480 in total
plus I will need to get a custom upper control arm made. $$$
I am lucky I like to eat beans.
They will machine one groove into each of my shocks. These grooves will hold a snap ring which in turn will hold my coilover adaptor sleeves.
So far I have spent:
$200 for two bilsteins
$80 for two coilover adaptor sleeves
$110 for two springs
$50 for two helper springs
$40 for snap ring groove machining (and shipping)
$480 in total
plus I will need to get a custom upper control arm made. $$$
I am lucky I like to eat beans.
I sent my shocks for the machining. I could have had it done locally, but I think it worth extra time and money to let the manufacturer do it. I should get them back before long.
So I have been thinking about the problems I will run into when I get the shocks back.
First, is it important to bind the helper spring and the coil spring together?
Second, my adaptor sleeves only came with a single nut/spring seat. Many coilovers have two nuts on each shock in order to ensure that they lock into place. Is this just a good idea, or is it vital to my plan?
thanks for all the help
So I have been thinking about the problems I will run into when I get the shocks back.
First, is it important to bind the helper spring and the coil spring together?
Second, my adaptor sleeves only came with a single nut/spring seat. Many coilovers have two nuts on each shock in order to ensure that they lock into place. Is this just a good idea, or is it vital to my plan?
thanks for all the help
The springs must of course be together some way. I have a plastic adapter in between. They must be available where you got the springs I guess.
My shocks have double "nuts". However, they are pretty stiff to rotate and the shock itself does not rotate like in a MacPearsson strut so there's virtually no force trying to turn it.
My shocks have double "nuts". However, they are pretty stiff to rotate and the shock itself does not rotate like in a MacPearsson strut so there's virtually no force trying to turn it.
I still have not installed them. I need to grind out the shock opening in the upper control arm to make room for the 2.5in ID springs. I will then have some steel welded on to bring the strength back up.
I am also trying to find a cheap way to connect the helper spring to the 600lb coil so that they will stay properly seated at all times. (I'm thinking of using a bicycle tire tube).
I am also trying to find a cheap way to connect the helper spring to the 600lb coil so that they will stay properly seated at all times. (I'm thinking of using a bicycle tire tube).
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Can someone post of a picture of the rear RSR setup. I have on in my shop right now for a customer's car and I need to make sure I have all the parts and understand how it goes on. It doesn't come with instructions, pictures or anything.
I am amazed at how well it's made.
Ok, I got the pictures and the Link, Thanks guys.
I am amazed at how well it's made.
Ok, I got the pictures and the Link, Thanks guys.
Last edited by Greg Gordon on Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Dennis
- Gold
- Posts: 194
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 8:44 am
- Location: Amersfoort, The Netherlands
- Contact:
Hey Greg,
Have a look at my post on the old forum. There are some pics from and JimK there.
http://www.alfagtv6.com/discus/messages ... 1097842262
Have a look at my post on the old forum. There are some pics from and JimK there.
http://www.alfagtv6.com/discus/messages ... 1097842262
'81 GTV6 3.0 QV
'91 75 TS (track)
'02 BMW 330i Touring
'91 75 TS (track)
'02 BMW 330i Touring