IndianaMark
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Help-removing lower ball joint? Greg Gordon there?

Post by IndianaMark »

85gtv6- I thought this would be a piece of cake.....I separated the lower tapered shaft no problem.....broke the nut loose on top and figured the ball joint could be tapped out with a brass hammer hitting the stud from the top while the A-arm was braced with a small jack underneath. I've used a 3-jaw puller with penetrating oil, heated the A-arm housing, but no go........Am I missing something?

Mark
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Post by Greg Gordon »

I am here, but off hand I don't know. It's late, in the morning I will take a look and let you know if no one else has this figured out.
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Murray
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Post by Murray »

Mark unfortunately no you're not missing anything.You've done everything you can do with the tools you have.I recently went through the same process exactly.Finally I went to my local Alfa guy and borrowed the Alfa ball joint tool.It projects the forces in exactly the correct way and bang out it comes.A standard puller just can't seem to drive these suckers out.Carefull with the banging.These "A" arms are cast and can crack.Hopefully you can borrow a tool from a local shop or Alfa club member.Good luck.
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Post by David »

Murray,

Is that extractor for the tapered shaft? It's the top part I think Mark has the problem with

Mark,

If the top is the problem, I found by keeping lots of pressure on the top bolt with the nut removed, with a puller, I drove a large screwdriver between the A arm and the ball joint case. Once it started it came out ok.

David
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1985 GTV6 3.0 Zender Body Kit - Red
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Post by SamW »

I used the same method as David to get it apart, worked out fine, the trick is getting it back in, don't use the little stud and nut at the top, they break easy, especially if it is the Frap brand. I would stick the ball joint in the freezer and heat up the A-arm unless you have the proper tool or something close.
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Post by Murray »

David you caught me on this one ! You're correct the tool is intended to remove the lower tapered shaft.What I did -and forgot about until now-was I removed the horizontal piece which serves to clamp the jaws together (It gets in the way when you're undoing the balljoint from above).I then substituted this with a C-Clamp which I was able to locate correctly.The strength of the little Alfa tool was still more effective than the other methods I tried,but if you can get the screwdriver method to work it sounds like a simple solution.
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2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
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Post by Greg Gordon »

Good job guys, I like it when I go to bed, wake up and find everything under control. I can't really add anything, that's all very good advice!
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Post by IndianaMark »

OK....sounds like I need to apply more persuasion to the ball joint. I will go back and use the puller again to apply pressure to the top stud and then try the wedge technique. I appreciate the pictures and the help......this is a great forum.

Mark
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Post by David »

Mark,
Here's the "clamp" I used to press the new one in. The collar from a standard 2in aluminium irrigation pipe fits perfectly over the rubber boot.

David
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IndianaMark
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Post by IndianaMark »

Just for an update.............The screwdriver method worked like a champ. All you need is a some sort of a wedge with a sharp enough leading edge to get started in joint. One you get it to start moving, you have it whipped. The next problem is getting the new ball joint installed, and boy does it seem tight, but I'm sure it will go. I like the home made tool in the picture. Thanks everyone for your help.

Mark
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Re: Help-removing lower ball joint? Greg Gordon there?

Post by chairmankaga »

I should have read this before starting mine. My situation is EXACTLY the same as the original post. I've tried all suggested methods and still no luck. As far as I can tell, my ball joints are original so who know what will need to be done to remove them. Is it possible to remove the wishbone without totally blowing the torsion bar setup?

Know what, I have NOT tried using a torch on the wishbone. Maybe combined with the prying method?

As for the clamp to install the new one, is that just 1/4" scrap iron and some 3" bolts? Where did you get the rubber collar? Scoured the local Lowe's and came up with nothing.


Argh.
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Re: Help-removing lower ball joint? Greg Gordon there?

Post by kevin »

I normally put a nut onto the stud so it stops it from bending when you hit it. Obviously you dont screw the nut down but leave it flush with top of thread. I have always got the worst ball joint out using this method. Some times you give it a severe hit. (full swing)
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Re: Help-removing lower ball joint? Greg Gordon there?

Post by Terry Johnston »

What I do is that I lossen the nut on the ball joint. I then start hitting the side of the component with a ball pein hammer that the ball joint goes through. The vibtation from the hammer striking causes the ball joint to release after a few hits. I learned theis from the english A Car Is Reborn series (xke restoration) and DIY Classic Car Restoration. Works everytime and does not damage the ball joint! Terry
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Re: Help-removing lower ball joint? Greg Gordon there?

Post by Mats »

The modified version is using two (2) 5Kg mallets and striking the LCA on opposite sides of the balljoint at exactly the same time, this usually loosen everything very nicely.
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Re: Help-removing lower ball joint? Greg Gordon there?

Post by chairmankaga »

I'll give the dual whack method a try first. Totally forgot about that! I saw it on a TV show at some point in my life as well... Overhaulin' maybe? Monster Garage? One of those. Anyway, I've let them soak in a bath of PB Blaster for a couple of days now. I have a nice, fat screwdriver that might work as a wedge. I suspect my prybar is too large, but you never know. I'd prefer to save that for last, as I've sent a few errant screwdrivers and chisels into things that's don't like sharp points.
Who knew 28-year old ball joints would get stuck?
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