ALFAGTV6.COM

Okay guys - I'm getting down to the final untouched items of my cars running restore - the suspension bushings and car interior. I wanted to do the Watts Linkage bushings myself and plan to use Powerflex Polys. This looks pretty simple - can those of you that have done this chime in.

1) loosen rear shocks
2) Jack up rear and place frame on jackstands but let the axle hang
3) loosen Watts linkage arms and remove
4) loosen and remove Watts linkage center nut
5) press out old bushings
6) torch or press out old center bushing
7) install new bushings ... and put back together in reverse.

Does this sound right? The manual mentions some other items like disconnecting the rear antisway bar, and removing the rear resonator - but I'm not planning on removing the whole Dedion. ... almost seems like you could take the Watts off with the car sitting on the ground?

Appreciate the knowledge!

GV

I just crawl under the car and take it all off with the car on the ground and everything hooked up. There are two catches. First take off the main nut at the center pivot point on the Dedion tube first. Then unbolt the ends. Once those ends are unbolted there is nothing to prevent the body from moving side to side on the Dedion tube so don't push on the car in this condition.

With the whole linkage off the car replace the bushings and then bolt it back on, attach it at the center first. You may then need to shift the car slightly to get the ends to line up.

"loosen and remove Watts linkage center nut" - may be a b@stard to remove. I put a pole on my rachet to remove it.

True, it helps if you try to pry out that little part that's crimped into the slot, then soak it overnight in liquid wrench.

Cool! Thanks guys! Will go buy the Liquid Wrench and a steel pole tomorrow (already have a big mallet) so I'll be ready to go at it. Yeah, the manual mentions to knock the little tab out of the slot on the center nut first. Great to know I don't even need to jack the car up - but I need to pull my Koni's out and turn them down to the low setting anway - at Med. they're a bit too much (Should have just had the old Red Koni's rebuilt!).

Years past I've rebuilt a few engines, but over the past ten years my patience has gone down as has my time to work on the Alfa so your input is invaluable to me! Thanks for the look ahead, it sounds basic but I'll post pictures of the process - plan to do it in another week.

GV

Not to hijack the thread or anything, but does anyone have any tips on pressing the center pivot bushing into the watts linkage? I've tried with two washers, but the bushing just ends up sliding sideways and the edges of the hole are cutting into the bushing.

A couple of things.

You don't have to loosen the shocks at all.
You might wanna buy a thin cutting disc for the angle grinder as the watts linkage screws like to rust solid to the inner sleeve of the bushing...

An impact gun and a big compressor is your friend when it comes to the centre nut.

As for pressing the bushing in, I often use sockets from my ½" set as drivers in the press. There are plenty of different diameters to choose from and the ends are nice and parallell to each other.

Thanks for the feedback all! Realised I might as well take care of the rear sway bar bushings while I am under it.

powderhounded: Sounds like you are putting a stock type bushing back in? From everyhting I've read on this site the only way to go is with the Powerflex Poly from the standpoint of function and ease of assembly.

PS - talked to Ruth Ann at Alfa Parts today they have rear donuts "guibo" if you need one, also I believe they have a line on someone that can rebuild brake boosters!

GV

GregoryV: No, its the polyurethane ones from Performatek. It just does not want to slip into the center piece with the washer's i'm using. I'm going to pick up some sockets that are large enough this weekend.

This may seem obvious, but use the lube that comes with the bushings. It makes a big difference.

Instead of using large sockets, we took the center pivot to our vise-on-a-bench. With a little bit of pressure from the vise, we then pushed the edges of the bushing inside the housing to get it started (the edges are the widest parts of the poly bushing at both ends. If you can get those "started" in the hole, the bushing will be much more obliged to slip in). 3 minutes later, it was completely in.

The Dedion center bushing (the one up at the front of the tranny) was a lot harder, especially since we didn't have adequate tools.

Another note: I don't think it's necessary to torch the Dedion bushing out. either using an air chisel or hammer and chisel, you can break away the steel sleeve and remove that first, then the whole rubber bushing should be more willing to become unstuck.

Good luck.

This may seem obvious, but use the lube that comes with the bushings. It makes a big difference.

Instead of using large sockets, we took the center pivot to our vise-on-a-bench. With a little bit of pressure from the vise, we then pushed the edges of the bushing inside the housing with a flat screw driver to get it started (the edges are the widest parts of the poly bushing at both ends. If you can get those "started" in the hole, the bushing will be much more obliged to slip in). 3 minutes later, it was completely in.

The Dedion center bushing (the one up at the front of the tranny) was a lot harder, especially since we didn't have adequate tools.

Another note: I don't think it's necessary to torch the Dedion bushing out. either using an air chisel or hammer and chisel, you can break away the steel sleeve and remove that first, then the whole rubber bushing should be more willing to become unstuck.

Good luck.

Great to know! Just got my bushings - my old rubber bushings are so shot that at the center pivot the the link rods are scewed - think I'll notice a difference?

GV

Hi All,
Finally got onto the little project tonight - Watts link came off real easy with the help of the breaker bar and presoak of liquid wrench - probably didn't hurt that the dedion has been out of this car probably 5 or 6 times in the past.

QUESTION:
I'm also replacing all of the rear sway bar bushings - should I have the Watts back on the car before doing this? Right now with the Watts off it seems that the sway bar is helping keep things in position - does it matter?

thanks!

GV

PS _ here is what the end link bushing at the Watts looked like!

Pounded out the end link bushings using a sparkplug socket that was about the same diameter as the bushing. Note that one end of the bushing is camfered - when removing you want to drive it out from this end ... pound from this end. With a good mallet mine came out easily.

Watts center bushing was also driven out pretty easily, again using a large socket and mallet.

GV

Photos of dedion with Watts removed

GV