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GregoryV
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Front End Rebuild

Post by GregoryV »

Well, I was down to deciding between front seat upholstry and rebuilding the front end of my 83 gtv6 - they are both wasted, but last night I was looking at the cars front suspension (199K miles on it) and one look at the Upper Caster Rod Bushings and the choice is a must ... check out these beauties :shock:

GV
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Egad!
Egad!
P1010275.JPG (177.26 KiB) Viewed 10021 times
More than wasted - nuked!
More than wasted - nuked!
P1010273.JPG (169.29 KiB) Viewed 10113 times
Last edited by GregoryV on Fri Mar 14, 2008 7:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by GregoryV »

The plan is for a stock rebuild, but with poly bushings, and to lower the front about an inch to Euro height - since it's a US model. I already have fresh Konis, brakes and disks on.

Zamani has a Verde front bar which I'm going to grab from him - thanks Z!

The plan is to do this in my garage with the rear on the ground and the front in the air, with my regular old tools and the help of Greg Gordon's suspension article on his site www.hiperformancestore.com (I also have the workshop manual). If I get stuck I'll be yelling at you Guru's who do this with one hand tied behind your back!

For some reason I'm thinking this will be fun :shock: :lol:

Be back when all my parts arrive!

GV
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Post by sira »

Greg's manual work fine :D :D :D
You will not stuck. But be careful and read Red Warnings on his manual!!

First time don't use homemade removal tool from manual :D
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Post by x-rad »

follow Greg's directions..they are very good.

Except, if you don't have the Alfa removal tool I would make two suggestions to Greg's directions:

1) Use a nut to 'pull' pull out the bolt (see pic)
2) soak with 3 n 1 or similar penetrating oil overnight (wet both sides of torsion rod splines)
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torsion rod.JPG
torsion rod.JPG (49.05 KiB) Viewed 10048 times
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Post by Greg Gordon »

I like that nut idea. I never thought of that, and it's so simple! If you can find a bolt the right size to do the job, that will make it a lot easier, and eliminate the risk of screwing up the torsion bar's threads.

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Post by GregoryV »

Thanks for the input!

xrad - Super helpful! :)

I've got stuff soaking in liquid wrench - don't expect to start wrenching until after the 25th at this end.

GV
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Post by sh0rtlife »

the ground bolt on the front of the head on the engine is the same thread size...usefull for matching up at a local hardware store...also the nut DOES work wonders but make sure you coat the nut/bolt assembly with antiseize to take some stress off the threads also make sure your useing grade 8 hardware
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Post by Greg Gordon »

GV, if you get stuck on this or need advice quickly give me a call.

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Post by x-rad »

Yeah...and go slow...I had the original Alfa tool strip out on me once
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Post by GregoryV »

You guys are great - really :)

I've scoured some of the old posts on removing ball joints, etc.

Saw the note about double nutting (not using a locking nut) the caster rod when using the poly bushings.

Received a box of bushings from IAP today, but they were out of stock on the driver's inner tie rod, the upper ball joints and poly bushings for the Verde bar, so Monday I'll call Alfa Parts and a few others to see if I can get these sooner. Also forgot to order the front anti-sway bar end link bushings.

GV
Attachments
Red Poly Caster Rod Bushings and Lower A-Arm bushings
Red Poly Caster Rod Bushings and Lower A-Arm bushings
P1010283.JPG (200.72 KiB) Viewed 9761 times
Powerflex Poly Upper Control Arm Bushings
Powerflex Poly Upper Control Arm Bushings
P1010284.JPG (203.05 KiB) Viewed 9764 times
Tie-Rod Ends and Lower Ball Joints
Tie-Rod Ends and Lower Ball Joints
P1010285.JPG (202.72 KiB) Viewed 9764 times
Passenger Side Inner Tie Rod
Passenger Side Inner Tie Rod
P1010286.JPG (193.22 KiB) Viewed 9762 times
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Post by GregoryV »

Question?
A) On Replacing the Inner Tie Rod Ends - It looks like the steering rack MUST be removed to do this - right?

B) Can the steering rack be removed without having to jack the engine up?

Thanks!

GV
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Post by MR2 Zig »

no need to pull the rack
just turn steering wheel all the way until the tie rod is visible/acessable
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Post by GregoryV »

MR2 Zig wrote:no need to pull the rack
just turn steering wheel all the way until the tie rod is visible/acessable
Cool! That's what I was hoping.

Here's a picture I took of the car last month at stock US ride height ... it'll be nice to get the worn bushings out and the nose down.

GV
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P1010222.JPG
P1010222.JPG (206.43 KiB) Viewed 9751 times
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Post by MR2 Zig »

you should replace the tie rod boots as well....zip tie the boots in place when finished. you don't need any special clamps here. these boots are what keep the road grime out of the rack.



hth,
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Post by x-rad »

nice shiny new parts!!!

I tried for while to find a new stabilizer strut for the steering, or something to fit. No luck. If you find something , let us know.

Also, if you can, check tightness of steering housing bolts.
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