ALFAGTV6.COM

Well, I was down to deciding between front seat upholstry and rebuilding the front end of my 83 gtv6 - they are both wasted, but last night I was looking at the cars front suspension (199K miles on it) and one look at the Upper Caster Rod Bushings and the choice is a must ... check out these beauties

GV

The plan is for a stock rebuild, but with poly bushings, and to lower the front about an inch to Euro height - since it's a US model. I already have fresh Konis, brakes and disks on.

Zamani has a Verde front bar which I'm going to grab from him - thanks Z!

The plan is to do this in my garage with the rear on the ground and the front in the air, with my regular old tools and the help of Greg Gordon's suspension article on his site www.hiperformancestore.com (I also have the workshop manual). If I get stuck I'll be yelling at you Guru's who do this with one hand tied behind your back!

For some reason I'm thinking this will be fun

Be back when all my parts arrive!

GV

Greg's manual work fine
You will not stuck. But be careful and read Red Warnings on his manual!!

First time don't use homemade removal tool from manual

follow Greg's directions..they are very good.

Except, if you don't have the Alfa removal tool I would make two suggestions to Greg's directions:

1) Use a nut to 'pull' pull out the bolt (see pic)
2) soak with 3 n 1 or similar penetrating oil overnight (wet both sides of torsion rod splines)

I like that nut idea. I never thought of that, and it's so simple! If you can find a bolt the right size to do the job, that will make it a lot easier, and eliminate the risk of screwing up the torsion bar's threads.

Greg

Thanks for the input!

xrad - Super helpful!

I've got stuff soaking in liquid wrench - don't expect to start wrenching until after the 25th at this end.

GV

the ground bolt on the front of the head on the engine is the same thread size...usefull for matching up at a local hardware store...also the nut DOES work wonders but make sure you coat the nut/bolt assembly with antiseize to take some stress off the threads also make sure your useing grade 8 hardware

GV, if you get stuck on this or need advice quickly give me a call.

Greg

Yeah...and go slow...I had the original Alfa tool strip out on me once

You guys are great - really

I've scoured some of the old posts on removing ball joints, etc.

Saw the note about double nutting (not using a locking nut) the caster rod when using the poly bushings.

Received a box of bushings from IAP today, but they were out of stock on the driver's inner tie rod, the upper ball joints and poly bushings for the Verde bar, so Monday I'll call Alfa Parts and a few others to see if I can get these sooner. Also forgot to order the front anti-sway bar end link bushings.

GV

Question?
A) On Replacing the Inner Tie Rod Ends - It looks like the steering rack MUST be removed to do this - right?

B) Can the steering rack be removed without having to jack the engine up?

Thanks!

GV

no need to pull the rack
just turn steering wheel all the way until the tie rod is visible/acessable

MR2 Zig wrote:no need to pull the rack
just turn steering wheel all the way until the tie rod is visible/acessable

Cool! That's what I was hoping.

Here's a picture I took of the car last month at stock US ride height ... it'll be nice to get the worn bushings out and the nose down.

GV

you should replace the tie rod boots as well....zip tie the boots in place when finished. you don't need any special clamps here. these boots are what keep the road grime out of the rack.



hth,
scott

nice shiny new parts!!!

I tried for while to find a new stabilizer strut for the steering, or something to fit. No luck. If you find something , let us know.

Also, if you can, check tightness of steering housing bolts.