Yesterday I was planning on plugging the MS in and seeing if the sensors were reading properly in Megatune. I decided to make sure the car started and idled OK before doing this as it had been sitting for a few days. And of course it wouldn't! After a couple hours of pulling out my hair and checking the usual suspects it turns out my combi-relay had died! Was working fine last week as I drove the car 70 miles/day for the last month or so. I think there is some weird EMP type activity going on in my garage or something, last week I was getting everything back in the Spider (A/C stuff) and it had driven fine when I pulled it into the garage and after sitting for a couple weeks it wouldn't start. After a while I figured out it was the crank position sensor in the bell housing which had gone bad, again just sitting there! Luckily I had a spare in my stash. Anyway...back to the MS...
Have my TPS adapter bracket finished and installed with the Volvo 850 TPS.
Another question on the Hall sensor wiring change:
Murray wrote:Kevin the way I installed a pull-up resistor was to pull the white nylon plug from the L-Jet to the distributor.I then pushed the + & 0 terminals out of the plug,stripped back some of the insultation and soldered the resistor between the two wires.I then re-insulated the connections and heat shrinked the assembly.
As far as removing the "sector disk" - yes it can take a lot of patience to work this thing up the shaft without damaging it.Unfortunately you pretty well have to do this because you should be "locking down" the advance mechanism inside the distributor as MS will take over this function.I guess as an alternative you could disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the advance.
As I understand the stock wiring diagram the hall sensor is wired into the "Advance Variation Control Unit" (that is what the service manual calls N20) which is shown as different from the "Electronic Ignition Module" (N1 on the diagram). One of the coil terminals is hooked up to the LJet ECU connector pin #1.
To use the hall signal instead do I unplug the stock wiring harness plug at the distributor so that it is no longer connected to the previously mentioned "N20" and create a new connection directly to pin #24 on the MS connector or do I just tap into the existing wiring (leaving it connected to the distributor) and run the pulse wire directly to Pin #24 on the MS and remove my current pigtail connection from Ljet-1 -> MSDB37-24?
You also mention about pinning the advance unit of the hall, is that only if you are using MS to drive the spark? I don't plan on doing that just yet. So in asking that question I thinking now I do just want to tap into the sense line rather than disconnect it from N20? And on that note if I leave it connected to N20 is adding the 1K pull-up resistor going to muck things up for that?
Thanks,
Kevin