ALFAGTV6.COM

Murray,
For my assembly, I just built the V3 to stock spec, planning to make modifications after initial build. I am currently wondering about the same issues. Peter Florence has been emailing me with help and I asked him about some of those mods. I will report what he says.
I think that all of those changes are still a good idea. I plan to do them all. I just want to hear what Peter Florence thinks about them...

I changed Q2 to a ztx751, I think. I am not sure where I saw instructions for that change
Also, remember that R16 is no longer in line as it is printed on the board.

Oh, I should also note that the photo above is Peter Florence's photo, I just cropped it down.

Change R12from 390ohm to a 1600ohm 1/2watt resistor
ChangeR4 and R7 to 2.2k ohm
Change D4 to a 4001 diode.

Questions still unanswered:
Which V3 diode should be changed from 4001 to a 4004?
Ed capacitor, change to a .01uf? Which is it? Do we even use this Cap?
XG1? Does v3 have an equivalent extra ground?

I think the 4001 to 4004 diode change is for d1 on the V3. As I understand it, Milano has a hall sensor. I have a Milano, so I dont think I even install this diode.
I also think that Ed capacitor C12 should be left empty for Hall sensor equiped cars (Milano?) but changed to .01uf for alfettas triggered by the coil.

Yes Zambon as I work through the assembly I have arrived at the same conclusions as you.I've noted them against my original post in red.

1) Step 47 - he suggests using 1600ohm resistor for R10 not the 390 ohm spec'd- I note that V3 calls for a 1000 ohm resistor so I guess this has been dealt with ? I installed the provided 1k Ohm resistor

2) Step 48 - Install and solder D5 {1N4001DICT-ND}. This is the famous Wing Diode - you will want this (reduces tach signal false-triggering).Steve recommends the use of an IN4004 diode instead.What is the equivalent step for V3 and is the diode dealt with ? (I see that D5 is now rated 100V on the V3 board) I also have set up my board for Hall effect input so this is not applicable

3)Step 51 Steve says use a 0.01uF cap.in lieu of 0.001uF spec'd.I note that V3 still specs 0.001 so I guess this change is still required ? Once again as we're using MS ignition control - not required.

4) Step 53 - I guess resistors must still be changed from 2.49k ohm to 2.2k ohm to read Bosch sensors ? MS II allows for adaptation to different sensors using Megatune(in fact it's recommended in lieu of changing the resistor values)

5) Step 54 - Steve says to not install the jumper per manual but instead to use XG1 for better ground.Is there an equivalent fix req'd for V3 or is it taken care of ? I'm going to stick with the stock MSII assembly instructions as I believe the new board provides superior grounding

6) Step 59 - Steve says that D7 D22 & D23 are not required.V3 shows only D7.Is it still not required ? Haven't got here yet.

Now if only I can get that @%@$ MT software to communicate with my board.Have you been successfull in doing this as outlined in step 41 of the V3 assembly guide ?I've wasted many hours trying to confirm that my assembly is correct to this point but MT won't talk to my board.

I have msI on my V3. I am using a serial to USB adaptor that I bought from DIY autotune. It was rather complex to get the settings right so that it would communicate right.

I did things slightly differently. I looked on the build list and found that R12 was a 390 ohm. I changed it to the 1600ohm. I am guessing that R10 on v2.2 is now R12 on V3.0
As far as the diodes, I just installed them.

Not to beat a dead horse, but to clarify are these the only modifications required to feed the proper signal for the fuel pump out pin 37?

Base and collector of the 3904 (q19) are both connected to 1k resistors.

Q19 emitter is in its normal location.

1k resistors then are then connected to the holes for R16.

Base-resistor connects to the lower R16 hole, while collector-resistor connects to the upper R16 hole.

Seems to be that I may have missed a step in there somewhere, just seems a little too straightforward!

hjulen wrote:Not to beat a dead horse, but to clarify are these the only modifications required to feed the proper signal for the fuel pump out pin 37?

Base and collector of the 3904 (q19) are both connected to 1k resistors.

Q19 emitter is in its normal location.

1k resistors then are then connected to the holes for R16.

Base-resistor connects to the lower R16 hole, while collector-resistor connects to the upper R16 hole.

Seems to be that I may have missed a step in there somewhere, just seems a little too straightforward!

I am wondering about the same thing. Anyone done this with success?