Related to the Bowling & Grippo Fuel Injection system.
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kredden
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Post by kredden »

No sketch :(.

One other question while I'm at it. What gauge wire did you use for your pigtail between the DB37 and the LJet connector? I read in a couple places they suggested to use 14 gauge for the grounds but there is no way that is going to fit into the little holes in the DB37 connector cable part! I had bought some 18 gauge for the majority of the connections but even that is too big to fit in.

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about trying to fit the wires into.

Kevin
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Post by Murray »

Kevin in my previous post I omitted the image - it's there now.

For the "pigtail" wiring between the DB37 and the L-Jet try to get yourself some stranded 18 or 20 gauge copper wire.Don't use solid wire as it is brittle.For the injector circuits you will have 2 - 18 gauge for each bank ( total 4) solder each bank (2 wires) together and then connect to 3 lengths of 18 gauge to the L-Jet pin for each bank.The injectors are the only relatively high load devices connected to MS
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Post by kredden »

Thanks Murray. We you able to get the 18 gauge to fit into the holes on the back (of the connector in the picture in my previous post)? I guess I could just strip a real short bit of the wire and just lay it in the open cup part and solder it on, thoughts?

Thanks,
Kevin
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Post by Murray »

Kevin it's tricky doing a good job on those connectors.Yes strip a very small piece just long enough to fit in the "cup",give the strands a good twist to make the end as compact as possible.Slide the wire in the cup and figure out a way to keep it stable.Heat the cup quickly with the iron and let the solder flow.I used a magnifying glass on a flexible arm so I could see what I was doing.Give the wire a good tug afterwards to make sure the connection is solid.After that I slid heat-shrink over each wire/cup to ensure that there were no shorts between the terminals.
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Post by kredden »

Thanks, I'll give it a try tonight!

Kevin
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Post by kredden »

Murray,

Where did you add this resistor, on the hall sensor itself or somewhere in the wiring harness?

I tried to take a look at the hall sensor on the dist of my spare engine but I wasn't able to get the "sector disk" (piece #6 in the pic) off. The service manual shows that you need to pry it off with two screwdrivers, mine was having nothing to do with that and it looked like the piece was starting to bend a bit.

Thanks,
Kevin

Murray wrote:Kevin here is a rudimentary sketch of the pull-up resistor required on the hall sensor.Basically when the hall triggers the resistor causes the "0" signal line to output +12V which is what MS wants to see to signal an ignition event.On mine I spliced the resistor between the 2 wires and then enclosed it in heat-shrink tubing.
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Post by kredden »

Murray,

In addition to my previous question...did you ever end up posting your MS files anywhere? I will need a set to start with!

To recap, for my first attempt I'll have basically a stock 3.0, stock cams, injectors. Will keep the airbox on until I get it running. Volvo 850 TPS. Will only be controlling fuel for now.

Thanks,
Kevin
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Post by Murray »

Kevin the way I installed a pull-up resistor was to pull the white nylon plug from the L-Jet to the distributor.I then pushed the + & 0 terminals out of the plug,stripped back some of the insultation and soldered the resistor between the two wires.I then re-insulated the connections and heat shrinked the assembly.
As far as removing the "sector disk" - yes it can take a lot of patience to work this thing up the shaft without damaging it.Unfortunately you pretty well have to do this because you should be "locking down" the advance mechanism inside the distributor as MS will take over this function.I guess as an alternative you could disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the advance.
As for my MS files I have posted them on this site ,( although I can't find them at the moment)however you may be better off starting with Steve R's setup as he also has a 3.0L whereas mine is a 2.5L.If you want mine say so and I'll repost them.
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Post by kredden »

Murray,

One more question about the fuel pump relay wiring...if you remember this is the pic I came referenced earlier in this thread:

download/file.php?id=4132

The question is about the connections to the new relay from 88d and 88b on the combi-relay. Did you leave the connections as is on the combi-relay and just add another wire from those connections to the new fuel pump relay or did you wire the relay inline with those wires so as to leave them still connected to those connections and whatever is on the other end of the wires?

Thanks,
Kevin
Last edited by kredden on Thu Jul 05, 2012 6:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Murray »

Kevin the connections for the relay have to be "in-line" with the existing connections in other words you cut the existing wires and run from them to the relay and then out to the fuel pump (Relay contact) and out to the MS fuel pump connection (relay coil).
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Post by kredden »

Thanks Murray, that makes sense :oops:.

I'm in the process of fabricating my TPS bracket right now, almost done with it. Fingers crossed I'm hoping to plug the MS in this weekend and at least see if the sensors and TPS show as reading properly in MegaTune. Don't know if I'll get to the point of actually trying to start the car but we'll see.

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Post by kredden »

Murray wrote:As for my MS files I have posted them on this site ,( although I can't find them at the moment)however you may be better off starting with Steve R's setup as he also has a 3.0L whereas mine is a 2.5L.If you want mine say so and I'll repost them.
Question on Steve's files. When I try to load "Dyno at 172 rwhp.msq" MegaTune (2.25 p1) gives me an incompatible file version, looks like is is for the MS & spark and 12x12 tables. Is there another file I can start with?

Thanks,
Kevin
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Post by Murray »

Kevin MT is very fussy about the version no being used and it is also sensitive to the code version being used by MS.Sometimes when you are attempting to build a new .msq using someone elses setup you have to manually input the values by printing out the other person's tables.
I've attached my .msq which may get you started.Keep in mind I'm running a 2.5L.I'm running 2.87 code .Are you going to be running a WB sensor ? If yes then once you get your motor running "VE Analyzer" in Megalogviewer can really help alot.
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Post by kredden »

Yesterday I was planning on plugging the MS in and seeing if the sensors were reading properly in Megatune. I decided to make sure the car started and idled OK before doing this as it had been sitting for a few days. And of course it wouldn't! After a couple hours of pulling out my hair and checking the usual suspects it turns out my combi-relay had died! Was working fine last week as I drove the car 70 miles/day for the last month or so. I think there is some weird EMP type activity going on in my garage or something, last week I was getting everything back in the Spider (A/C stuff) and it had driven fine when I pulled it into the garage and after sitting for a couple weeks it wouldn't start. After a while I figured out it was the crank position sensor in the bell housing which had gone bad, again just sitting there! Luckily I had a spare in my stash. Anyway...back to the MS...

Have my TPS adapter bracket finished and installed with the Volvo 850 TPS.

Another question on the Hall sensor wiring change:
Murray wrote:Kevin the way I installed a pull-up resistor was to pull the white nylon plug from the L-Jet to the distributor.I then pushed the + & 0 terminals out of the plug,stripped back some of the insultation and soldered the resistor between the two wires.I then re-insulated the connections and heat shrinked the assembly.
As far as removing the "sector disk" - yes it can take a lot of patience to work this thing up the shaft without damaging it.Unfortunately you pretty well have to do this because you should be "locking down" the advance mechanism inside the distributor as MS will take over this function.I guess as an alternative you could disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the advance.
As I understand the stock wiring diagram the hall sensor is wired into the "Advance Variation Control Unit" (that is what the service manual calls N20) which is shown as different from the "Electronic Ignition Module" (N1 on the diagram). One of the coil terminals is hooked up to the LJet ECU connector pin #1.

To use the hall signal instead do I unplug the stock wiring harness plug at the distributor so that it is no longer connected to the previously mentioned "N20" and create a new connection directly to pin #24 on the MS connector or do I just tap into the existing wiring (leaving it connected to the distributor) and run the pulse wire directly to Pin #24 on the MS and remove my current pigtail connection from Ljet-1 -> MSDB37-24?

You also mention about pinning the advance unit of the hall, is that only if you are using MS to drive the spark? I don't plan on doing that just yet. So in asking that question I thinking now I do just want to tap into the sense line rather than disconnect it from N20? And on that note if I leave it connected to N20 is adding the 1K pull-up resistor going to muck things up for that?

Thanks,
Kevin
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Post by kredden »

In addition to my previous questions I'm looking at the fuel pump relay wiring again. Murray, is there a reason you said to have combi-relay 88b go to the opposite side of MS pin 37 on the relay (line in the picture I posted on thise thread) instead of just using the "always hot" 12v source from the starter junction box on the firewall?

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