ALFAGTV6.COM

junglejustice · Post by **junglejustice** » Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:29 pm

A little late for an "excuse the finger-pointing" post and then to leave this kind of shit hanging out there...

"Breaking" it in half and re-assembling it again as it was - back from balancing - hardware in the same spots - orientated exactly the same way - DID NOT change anything Chuck...

Place blame where it belongs -
Bad drive-shaft balancing on ??? whomever it was...
Slipping clutch on Andrew Garcia...
Sub-standard piant prep on your buddy Carlos...
Etc etc

cchan · Post by **cchan** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 3:55 pm

Hello Forum,
We saw the Alfa today and its running alot better than before. It started right up, idled smoothly, and could really rev. It sounds great and we took pictures and a video. We will post the picture and I will post the video as soon as I figure out how to accomplish this. Here are the extra tweeks that we did to the Alfa besides all the tuning hours with the computer.

We had a custom TPS added. This was the only way that we could figure out how to get the Alfa to idle.

We added on the new heat sheild. Even with the ceramic coating heat barrier the header are very hot. Hopefully, this will solve any future starting problems. We had to add on a aux cold start valve along with putting larger diameter vaccuum hoses to help it idle smoothly when cold.

We also tweeked the brake system with a larger vaccuum hose and put on a non circulation valve. The brake system is now more solid and consistant feel. The Go tech system was working and it appears that we are overcoming the learning curve.

We have a camera/Video now but the pictures were too large to show and when I changed them to PDF I could not post them. I forgot how to resize them. However, here is the video of the Alfa finally running before the final dyno tune.

<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LSxdsrAtq34&re ... ram><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LSxdsrAtq34&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>

<br>

<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/DcfNENPLKuc&re ... ram><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/DcfNENPLKuc&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>

cchan · Post by **cchan** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 3:58 pm

Here is the links again:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=LSxdsrAtq34

<br>

http://youtube.com/watch?v=DcfNENPLKuc

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Fri Nov 09, 2007 4:57 pm

I'm smiling for you!

PietereQ · Post by **PietereQ** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 1:47 pm

Video removed by user

cchan · Post by **cchan** » Sat Nov 10, 2007 3:09 pm

I will have this restored on Monday.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 11:54 am

cchan. I had a starter that as soon as it got hot even with a heat shield it battled to turn over(on my standard GTV 3.0). I am currently running one in my race car without any heat shield or ceramic headers and it turns over perfectly after a serious race on 33 deg day temp(also no relays). This is a standard GTV starter not a 164 starter modification. Try another starter then relays or vice versa.

Giuliettaevo2 · Post by **Giuliettaevo2** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:05 pm

also try if it starts if you put a direct 12v feed on it. the 75/milano has this problem a lot and most of the time it is due to an old ignition switch which has to much resistance... Just use the wire coming from the ignitionswitch to switch a relais open which in turn feeds the starter with a nice fat 12v...

cchan · Post by **cchan** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 2:57 pm

Here is the link again.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=g7f8e3dXeLU

bteoh · Post by **bteoh** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:29 pm

Hey CChan,

Maybe you could share your gotech map? I think Michael was going to post it for you? I wouldn't mind trying out your map as Ca climate might be similiar to Perth. Cheers, brian

cchan · Post by **cchan** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:48 pm

Hi Bteoh,

How did you like the video? I wish it was clearer. The original was much better. I think youtube lowered the resolution. Anyway, this map is to pass CA smog and we are still tweaking it. We were going to email Michael the final map that has been done on the dyno. This is still down the road but I will post it.

We just ordered the new clutch assembly and verified that it will handle the extra HP. We hope to have it this week but it may take longer. Once I have the new clutch we will complete the drive train vibration, clutch problem, and flanges on the exhaust. Then the dyno tune. Therefore, I still have a little more to go.

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:33 pm

that should be

.....because you only have a little more to go....

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:35 pm

that should be

.....because you only have a little more to go....

Greg Gordon · Post by **Greg Gordon** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 4:51 pm

What do you mean that map is to pass California smog? Shouldn't the map for the smog check and max performance be the same map. I am sure Gotech can be set up with one map to run a 14.7:1 AFR when driving like a normal human being (for optimal emissions and fuel economy) and 12.5:1 for max power when you put your foot down. Unless the cams are so radical you need to screw around with timing to get it to pass (which I doubt) you should really only need one map.

Greg

cchan · Post by **cchan** » Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:49 pm

x-rad wrote:any decent aftermarket programmable fuel control can pass smog (assuming no one sees that there is an aftermarket computer and you have CC's on the exhaust)

What you do is get the engine tuned professionally on a dyno so it runs great as mentioned above. Save this a program "A" or whatever

Then reprogram the setup to run a little leaner, clean up exhaust output, emmission particles or whatever and save this as program "B"

best to do the program 'B' tuning while hooked up to an exhaust monitor at a private inspection station. Sometimes the guys there will let you tune the car while hooked up to the monitor for a few extra bucks( ). Now you are guaranteed to pass. As soon as you pull out of the inspection station, reload program "A" until nex time....

Hi Greg,

Please see the above quote. This is what I thought was suggested by the forum. Therefore, the map that I have is going to be "B" for the smog. We still need to do the "A" and this is what I assume will give us the best performance. I also think that this is the Map most Forum Members would like to see since it is max HP. Of course, program A will only be used for Track Events and in no way are we trying to not be in compliance with CA DOT regulations.

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