- Giuliettaevo2
- Verde
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 11:56 pm
- Location: Netherlands
Re: My rebuild!
A small tip for the vacuumsystem.. a lot of Volvo's use an electric vacuumpump as an assist for the brakebooster. They come with an inline switch that turns on the pump if vacuum is too low. Getting a good vacuum on a throttlebodied engine is not always easy and this Will het you a good amount of vacuum for your booster.
I use this setup in my giulia as i deleted the engine vacuumpump on my jtd conversion due to space issues. So i use only this electric pump to create a vacuum for the brakebooster. Has been a reliable setup for the last few years.
I use this setup in my giulia as i deleted the engine vacuumpump on my jtd conversion due to space issues. So i use only this electric pump to create a vacuum for the brakebooster. Has been a reliable setup for the last few years.
Drive it like you stole it...
Re: My rebuild!
Jules,
Look at this electric ACsetup on a GTV6 SC. More room in the engine bay,
https://www.alfabb.com/threads/electric ... st-8605853
With your Prius power steering and this AC setup, you’re good to go mate, the engine bay will be all clean much easier to work with.
Look at this electric ACsetup on a GTV6 SC. More room in the engine bay,
https://www.alfabb.com/threads/electric ... st-8605853
With your Prius power steering and this AC setup, you’re good to go mate, the engine bay will be all clean much easier to work with.
Re: My rebuild!
Hi Jules
Dammmm ! This is one amazing build. It looks like you have been saving all this energy and sponging all the GTV info up to to the ultimate build. The GP kit looks really good and allows the freedom to trim the arches. This has brightened up the -1 degree day outside with some good sofa reading . Look forward to your progress.
Dammmm ! This is one amazing build. It looks like you have been saving all this energy and sponging all the GTV info up to to the ultimate build. The GP kit looks really good and allows the freedom to trim the arches. This has brightened up the -1 degree day outside with some good sofa reading . Look forward to your progress.
Re: My rebuild!
Looking good Jules this GTV looks great.
Hows the build going.
What Brake vacuum pump have you used.
I am up to this stage on mine .
Hows the build going.
What Brake vacuum pump have you used.
I am up to this stage on mine .
- SydneyJules
- Verde
- Posts: 619
- Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 1:57 pm
- Location: Sydney
Re: My rebuild!
Hey guys,
Ok, sorry I’ve been absent. It’s been a crazy few years with moves up and down between syd and melbourne, juggling an ill dad and getting back into flying, but I finally got the car back to syd the other day and can get stuck in to finalising a few things.
Here is the list.
2x nice to have but not required to have:
* a friend fabricated a few plate steel copies of the factory pedal box that bolts into the factory spot, uses a factory Clutch MC (preferably early type with reservoir on the MC), then accepts 2 x Tilton MCs for front and rear circuits. There is a slightly different pin required to hinge the pedals, but it uses factory clutch actuation and a fabricated 8mm steel brake pedal actuating the MCs via a balance bar. Bloody brilliant. I’m starting to build this and may end up fitting it before the csr goes for registration.
My current arrangement is untested, but we tapped the AHM ITB runners for 1/8” NPT vacuum lines that run into a vacuum tree/distribution block mounted on the firewall behind the valley. One outlet goes to the booster via a check valve and the other goes to a T piece for the Fuel Psi Reg and the MAP sensor.
I’d prefer to ditch the booster and RHD crossover bar for this pedal box. sooooooo much simpler.
* I have a spare steering column and I’m working on a Yaris power steering conversion that would ens let me to use the factory column housing and shroud, thus the stock ignition barrel etc. I think it can be done, but I won’t have it ready straight away.
* Fit Abarth 500 alternator as per guidance from Kevin (thanks again, legend!)
* clean up radiator hose from T/stat toT piece.. my T stat is mounted a bit further towards the rad than others have seemed to achieve, so I have to go hose digging to find something
* Fit my modified tail shaft - the front section is chromoly and will use a donut with a cage.
The centre section has a GM Commodore CV fitted, the rear has a V6 donut.
I had the car on a hoist briefly the other day and attempted to lever the rear engine mounts off and fit my donut and Tailshaft but ran out of time, so it will have to be done somewhere up here in Sydney when I get a chance.
* All fluids in and brakes/clutch bled with handbrake working.
* wheel alignment, although, I think I’m going to have to down from 45 profile tyres to 40 profile in order to clear my guards.
This is even after having the guards cut and the GP flares sectioned, lengthened and then trimmed underneath, to clear the wheels.
* car is to be re-wired by a professional auto elec in western Sydney.
It’s a bit involved- Hella H4 and H1 conversion at front with LED globes, LED globes rear, the factory heater box has been removed and I’ve mounted a 12v electric heater and blower fan against the firewall feeding the footwells and Demister vents. This requires its own 40A fuse. No more coolant in the cabin…
Also have the Yaris power steering motor and ECU, as well as the Speedhut gauges and the Motec (flying lead loom needs terminating).
Using a PDM is a possibility.
* re trim interior, although I have seat covers to make a template off, so won’t be too involved. Currently talking to a trimmer.
* Dyno tune
* shakedown
* fix whatever I break
****
Ok, sorry I’ve been absent. It’s been a crazy few years with moves up and down between syd and melbourne, juggling an ill dad and getting back into flying, but I finally got the car back to syd the other day and can get stuck in to finalising a few things.
Here is the list.
2x nice to have but not required to have:
* a friend fabricated a few plate steel copies of the factory pedal box that bolts into the factory spot, uses a factory Clutch MC (preferably early type with reservoir on the MC), then accepts 2 x Tilton MCs for front and rear circuits. There is a slightly different pin required to hinge the pedals, but it uses factory clutch actuation and a fabricated 8mm steel brake pedal actuating the MCs via a balance bar. Bloody brilliant. I’m starting to build this and may end up fitting it before the csr goes for registration.
My current arrangement is untested, but we tapped the AHM ITB runners for 1/8” NPT vacuum lines that run into a vacuum tree/distribution block mounted on the firewall behind the valley. One outlet goes to the booster via a check valve and the other goes to a T piece for the Fuel Psi Reg and the MAP sensor.
I’d prefer to ditch the booster and RHD crossover bar for this pedal box. sooooooo much simpler.
* I have a spare steering column and I’m working on a Yaris power steering conversion that would ens let me to use the factory column housing and shroud, thus the stock ignition barrel etc. I think it can be done, but I won’t have it ready straight away.
* Fit Abarth 500 alternator as per guidance from Kevin (thanks again, legend!)
* clean up radiator hose from T/stat toT piece.. my T stat is mounted a bit further towards the rad than others have seemed to achieve, so I have to go hose digging to find something
* Fit my modified tail shaft - the front section is chromoly and will use a donut with a cage.
The centre section has a GM Commodore CV fitted, the rear has a V6 donut.
I had the car on a hoist briefly the other day and attempted to lever the rear engine mounts off and fit my donut and Tailshaft but ran out of time, so it will have to be done somewhere up here in Sydney when I get a chance.
* All fluids in and brakes/clutch bled with handbrake working.
* wheel alignment, although, I think I’m going to have to down from 45 profile tyres to 40 profile in order to clear my guards.
This is even after having the guards cut and the GP flares sectioned, lengthened and then trimmed underneath, to clear the wheels.
* car is to be re-wired by a professional auto elec in western Sydney.
It’s a bit involved- Hella H4 and H1 conversion at front with LED globes, LED globes rear, the factory heater box has been removed and I’ve mounted a 12v electric heater and blower fan against the firewall feeding the footwells and Demister vents. This requires its own 40A fuse. No more coolant in the cabin…
Also have the Yaris power steering motor and ECU, as well as the Speedhut gauges and the Motec (flying lead loom needs terminating).
Using a PDM is a possibility.
* re trim interior, although I have seat covers to make a template off, so won’t be too involved. Currently talking to a trimmer.
* Dyno tune
* shakedown
* fix whatever I break
****
Fixing it bit by bit....
- SydneyJules
- Verde
- Posts: 619
- Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 1:57 pm
- Location: Sydney
Re: My rebuild!
Can’t attach an image, as I’m doing this off my iPad and can’t shrink the pic down…. Still some fine tuning of 75 Evo front bumper and need to get mirrors and a few external bits on, but car is looking fantastic
Fixing it bit by bit....
Re: My rebuild!
Sounds good Jules. Interested in the tailshaft. I want a spare and I like a center CV, it should do well with the slight misalignment on most cars.
Dr. Alban
Re: My rebuild!
Ah, Jules. I just know you typed this projection report on your IPhone in between parachute jumps. Be careful not to be too preoccupied during the jump in case you land in the Kakadu croc swamps. It could cost you a pair of aggots.
LED headlights eh? Well, don't overlook the LHD/RHD configuration in combination with the lenses in the Hellas . The average use time of headlights in OZ is much higher than postage sized countries. Will they take the heat build up? One or two piece units? Two piece units seem more temperature stable. Never use high wattage in 146mm headlights as the small internal volume cannot dissipate the heat fast enough which causes the reflectors to be discoloured and burnt. Good choice on the Hellas.
Now if you can just find a way to strap a propeller on your ass, your project is abound to speed up.
LED headlights eh? Well, don't overlook the LHD/RHD configuration in combination with the lenses in the Hellas . The average use time of headlights in OZ is much higher than postage sized countries. Will they take the heat build up? One or two piece units? Two piece units seem more temperature stable. Never use high wattage in 146mm headlights as the small internal volume cannot dissipate the heat fast enough which causes the reflectors to be discoloured and burnt. Good choice on the Hellas.
Now if you can just find a way to strap a propeller on your ass, your project is abound to speed up.
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Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
Re: My rebuild!
Unlike you MD, Jules has this all this figured out already. On the advice of the Greekster he is planning to run an AC ducts into the headlight housing. He can run the headlights until Jesus comes and switches it off himself.
Dr. Alban
Re: My rebuild!
Jules , your alternator bracket will be in Australia in a weeks time . You will have to collect from my sister who you met aaaages ago ! Will give you details
Pics where your pics ? Email the pics back to you on medium size and then save to upload !
Pics where your pics ? Email the pics back to you on medium size and then save to upload !