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Could be anything really. I'm just mad at myself because I missed something or did something wrong. I can barely look at the car at the moment.

I didn't see any evidence of water in the oil or oil in the coolant either.

with good oil (and all measurements checked on rebuild) probably pump failure. 2zig says he just rebuilt engine, but most people don't put in new oil pumps..myself included

Well...
xrad is right, it was the oil pump. I think that I failed to tightenat all / didn't tighten enough / didn't use locktite on the oil pump lower half bolts. I found one bolt in the oil pan and the other 2 loose with about a 1/16in gap between the upper and lower halves.

The damage appears to be to the last rod journal on the crankshaft and its rod. I had to hammer them apart.

Soooo anyone have an extra 3.0 crankshaft they want to part with?

I have some extra rods from the 2.5, but i'll put in new bearings and maybe rings too.

xrad wrote:...most people don't put in new oil pumps..myself included

I would if they were available...

xrad wrote:with good oil (and all measurements checked on rebuild) probably pump failure. 2zig says he just rebuilt engine, but most people don't put in new oil pumps..myself included

No new oil pump on a rebuild ? That is crazy

Keep at it 2zig, you've got a good looking gvt6 and the 3.0 will make up for all the trouble when you let the clutch out GV

Yeah, not so available as Mats says....but I do check tolerances and pick the best one out of my little oil pump collection.

I did get on new one for my latest rebuild from IAP but it was pretty expensive as oil pumps go.


2ZIG: sorry to hear it! all those little metal shards went all over the engine and everything has to be closely checked and cleaned (valves pulled and all that)

I think I know where there is a 3.0 crank, but I am not 100% sure. I will look into it.

Check with Larry at APE, too.

2ZIG: is the crank journal done for good or can it be cut?

OK I found another crank for the car and had all the bits run through a balancing shop. I decided to replace the rear two con rods with spares out of the old 2.5.

Today I installed the new thrust and main bearings and torqued up the crank main studs.

I hope this works

The blue in the crank is a aluminium plug in place of the swedged in one that is stock....yes I ate up 2 1/4 in pipe taps doing this.

The welded up boss on the side of the block is for the belt tensioner to the a/c pump. It was broken off when the donor car was wrecked.

Well its on the road!!

I found something else on assembly. I think I may have had 3 of the conrods mated to the crank backwards. I did find the Alfa tech bullitin on the topic, but I noticed an easy way to tell if you have it right. Look down the bore at the bottom of the piston. There you should see an even gap between the wrist pin bosses and the small end of the con rod. If the gap is all on one side of the rod you have it backwards. (this is provided I read the tech bullitin correctly).

Now i need to get the instrument lighting to work.

I got the instrument lights to work....bad fuse, not burned. It had broken the metal conductor right where it is bent over into the end cup and so wasn't really visible. It has a new fuse now.

yep..gotta watch the con rod placement..

think of it as a 6 cylinder bent in half, and then they all face the same way if you unfold the engine.

and watch the clock position of the dizzy/oil pump drive, it can be 180 degree out ....Alfa reall good about timing marks so easy to check.

I caught that one with the dizzy...who knows what else i missed but it is running well.

A question ...the rear engine mount that is in the tail of the bellhousing....one side is longer than the other...Which side of the car should the longer side (of the mount) be on?

yep, want to check that before you remove it......

I forget, I can look at my spare when I get a chance but it's not local.

One thing I like to do is to ployurethane(black flex type found at home repair stores) the gap in this support. really keeps it from sagging. takes a few days to really dry, and make sure you wedge it back to proper position before filling with poly.