A few more
There are 4 layers of sound and vibration dampning material covering the floorboards, including the factory dampner, which was laid second over the "dampner pro" . The 3rd layer is also the "dampner pro" which sticks on expertly. The shop is highly impressed with this material, including layer 4 - the picture shows that it's a muchh thicker material, denser, apparently designed to pick up the remaining sound and vibration "scraps" that are leftover after the first few layers.
We are very interested to learn the degree of improvement from this dampning. We're hoping that it's going to be a solid "touring" upgrade with low road noise.
The sound system itself is a solid 7 or 8 of a possible ten, I imagine, including an Alpine amp (in the trunk) and the Alpine 9887 head unit. The speakers are very solid. The instalation is far superior to the typical "Circuit City" install. That's why I chose to have it done here - first-rate!
Many of you are probably wondering about weight gain. Between speaker/amp/dampning materials, 45-65lbs, somehwere in that neighborhood. Too much? I don't know. How much weight is lost/gained by installing the RSR kit?
more later.
David
1986 GTV-6
undergoing "immersion-therapy"
at "undisclosed" location
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SlewofDamascus
- Gold
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:46 pm
- Attachments
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- There are multiple layers of very high quality insulation in this car. Some of the layers are actually called "sound deadener". I suspect this stuff will eliminate all road noise comming through the floor.
- Insulation.jpg (234.7 KiB) Viewed 6954 times
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- Each door has two speakers, a main speaker, which my dad is holding, and a tiny tweeter mounted above it. These German made speakers appear to be really good. However they are tricky to mount.
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- The door panel and tweeter are back on, and so is the main door speaker (not shown here). The speakers look great in the doors. I am excited about seeing all of this together.This is not a chop job with jagged edges I see done by stereo installation shops
- Tweeter.jpg (160.78 KiB) Viewed 6952 times
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- The rear speakers look right at home in this car. Notice the insulation and sound deadener is installed over the rear wheel arches and under the back seat. Other than noise through the weather-stripping and glass this car should be fairly quiet.
- RearSpeaker.jpg (180.39 KiB) Viewed 6954 times
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SlewofDamascus
- Gold
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:46 pm
more pics:
There will be some tidying up, but this is pretty much it inside, you'll notice the beautifully cut speakers, the arm rest, push button starter is hard to see but where the mirror toggle used to be.
The Mats will be replaced with a more attractive brand, not pleased with them.
It will be controversial, perhaps, but I really like it (though, like all of you, I have yet to see it as of this writing).
I am picking up the GTV-6 next week.
Thanks.
David
There will be some tidying up, but this is pretty much it inside, you'll notice the beautifully cut speakers, the arm rest, push button starter is hard to see but where the mirror toggle used to be.
The Mats will be replaced with a more attractive brand, not pleased with them.
It will be controversial, perhaps, but I really like it (though, like all of you, I have yet to see it as of this writing).
I am picking up the GTV-6 next week.
Thanks.
David
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- insideright.jpg (203.16 KiB) Viewed 6779 times
Last edited by SlewofDamascus on Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:27 am, edited 3 times in total.
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SlewofDamascus
- Gold
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:46 pm
more goood stuff:
Here is the massive 30mm RSR front anti-sway bar. It's attached with poly bushings and heim joined at the ends. Reinforcement plates have been welded in. That's a difficult place to weld and it seems like the plates are made from a different type of metal than the body. Because of these factors, the welds may look a little messy, but they are strong.
The oil pan guard is in place and ready to do its job.
Here is the massive 30mm RSR front anti-sway bar. It's attached with poly bushings and heim joined at the ends. Reinforcement plates have been welded in. That's a difficult place to weld and it seems like the plates are made from a different type of metal than the body. Because of these factors, the welds may look a little messy, but they are strong.
The oil pan guard is in place and ready to do its job.
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- frontbar.jpg (206.7 KiB) Viewed 6785 times
Last edited by SlewofDamascus on Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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SlewofDamascus
- Gold
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:46 pm
more stuff:
Notes from the Guru:
This is a nice shot of the rear end. Everything is clean and shiny. You can see your SZ brakes, red calipers, Stebro exhaust and more. The Stebro system hangs down a little more than we would have liked, but it's as high as we can get it. Overall it's a really nice system with just a few minor issues we needed to work out.
(note from the owner: if you look real closely in the first photo, in the lower rh corner you can see what is undoubtedly my hood, with brand new "Motor Mat" sound deadening material installed. Looks like a really nice job, too!)
A lot of changes here. First of all we have four powerful headlights. They provide 400 watts of power when the high beams are on. They are wired with relays so they get the full system voltage. The low and high beams are fused separately so the loss of one circuit won't effect the other. all the wiring is heavy gauge copper wire. Each relay can handle 70 amps, so the whole system is very heavy duty. The lights themselves perform well, and are inexpensive to replace should one become damaged or broken.
The PIAA combination driving light/fog light kit is top notch. They also use heavy gauge copper wire and high quality relays. The driving lights are super bright and the integrated fog lights will be helpful.
The transaxle is clean and doesn't leak a drop. You may notice the slave cylinder to clutch housing boot is sealed to the transaxle. This reduces the amount of dust that gets into the clutch housing and prolongs component life. For some reason, nobody else seems to do this, including the factory, but it really helps. In this photo you can see where the Stebro system is a little low.
Notes from the Guru:
This is a nice shot of the rear end. Everything is clean and shiny. You can see your SZ brakes, red calipers, Stebro exhaust and more. The Stebro system hangs down a little more than we would have liked, but it's as high as we can get it. Overall it's a really nice system with just a few minor issues we needed to work out.
(note from the owner: if you look real closely in the first photo, in the lower rh corner you can see what is undoubtedly my hood, with brand new "Motor Mat" sound deadening material installed. Looks like a really nice job, too!)
A lot of changes here. First of all we have four powerful headlights. They provide 400 watts of power when the high beams are on. They are wired with relays so they get the full system voltage. The low and high beams are fused separately so the loss of one circuit won't effect the other. all the wiring is heavy gauge copper wire. Each relay can handle 70 amps, so the whole system is very heavy duty. The lights themselves perform well, and are inexpensive to replace should one become damaged or broken.
The PIAA combination driving light/fog light kit is top notch. They also use heavy gauge copper wire and high quality relays. The driving lights are super bright and the integrated fog lights will be helpful.
The transaxle is clean and doesn't leak a drop. You may notice the slave cylinder to clutch housing boot is sealed to the transaxle. This reduces the amount of dust that gets into the clutch housing and prolongs component life. For some reason, nobody else seems to do this, including the factory, but it really helps. In this photo you can see where the Stebro system is a little low.
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- RearEnd.jpg (148.39 KiB) Viewed 6779 times
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- Those RSR heim joints look nice.
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- transaxleandexhst.jpg (247.87 KiB) Viewed 6782 times
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- Headlights.jpg (140.39 KiB) Viewed 6782 times
WOW! looking really great!
It looks like the directional vents were done in a simulated burl wood ... is that right? If so I am surprised it can be physically done. The floor mats don't look quite right in black to me, but not sure of what other options you have, less someone can custom make them to match the carpet.
Nice on the PIAA's - I would love to get some on mine, but first I want to get the higher voltage alternator in!
Sounds like it'll be ready for Summer!
G
It looks like the directional vents were done in a simulated burl wood ... is that right? If so I am surprised it can be physically done. The floor mats don't look quite right in black to me, but not sure of what other options you have, less someone can custom make them to match the carpet.
Nice on the PIAA's - I would love to get some on mine, but first I want to get the higher voltage alternator in!
Sounds like it'll be ready for Summer!
G
20-Years-3-Motors-Later
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SlewofDamascus
- Gold
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:46 pm
Heck, it's ready for Spring. Your always good for a kind word, G, I appreciate it.
I totally agree, the black mats just don't look right. I get a lot of those car accessories magazines and there are quite a few custom mats that will actually fit this model, so I will be researching the options.
Yes, the pieces were finished in a medium to dark burl simulated wood. It's amazing to me, too. I am told it looks much better in person, which I do believe, because the light from a flash can really wash out the texture. The vents were done on the console, you'll also notice it on the door handle, the entire lower console was done in the same burl as well as the center console guage surround. The ash tray/radio piece was finished in a simulated "Denali Black Cherry Wood." In the future, I may do the top vents, and I may also have an optional 2nd bottom center console piece in the Denali to mix things up.
For better or worse, I wanted to try something fresh in the GTV-6 interior. Is it for everyone? Probably not.
We do have a push-button starter switch that is located where the mirror toggle switch used to be on the bottom console below the lighter (the mirror switch was traded for a Milano version and moved to the upper center console). The switch that makes the car live is hidden in the steering colum (no, you can't have my address). Actually, the wiring for the whole deal is posted in an earlier pic above - another amazing wiring job.
We also added an armrest, the Isotta brand - I will add a pic below.
The sound system is pretty incredible. Alpine 9887 Imprint head unit - this unit can be calibrated to have sound correctly timed to reach the desired ear at the exact moment intended by the studio; the car has to be taken to a shop($$) that has the software (or I can buy it for $250 - no thanks). Quartz MB 5 1/4s in the front (installation pics above) - the front speakers (which were non-existent in the '86) were cut beautifully by the shop, and again, the wiring is impeccable, first-rate. Same deal in the rear, new Alpine speakers (pictured above), and an Alpine amp in the trunk. All of it impeccably wired.
Yes, the PIAAs are beautiful. They are named: PIAA 90 Pro XT Ion Crystal Fog - Clear Driving Lights. It's a Dual System Bulb Type 12V - H1 55watt=100watt fog, and 12V - H3 85watt=130watt - added to the 400 watt capability of the Greg Gordon/HHiperformancestore.com GTV-6 headlight upgrade kit, man! That's some serious candle power!
Yes, we have the BMW upgrade alternator, important I think. Since the driving lights are covered, here is a pic of what they look like (below).
When I get home from my journey and finish detailing the vehicle I will upload a whole new set of pics.
The engine is stock, but entirely updated. A few of the particulars, all new silicone hose kits from GG @ hiperformancestore.com, new fuel lines (with an added filter outside the tank), new ac/heater/rad. hoses, air intake kit from GG @ hiperformancestore.com, Pandora's Box ECU with a 6800 rev limiter, professionally cleaned/painted radiator service, metal expansion tank (IAP), exhaust valave adjustment, and a plethora of other items replaced. More minutia later.
If you didn't see the custom oil pan guard, give it a look see, available at hiperformancestore.com for an incomprehensibly low figure (I forget, maybe $200). It's nice not having to worry about that.
Thanks for your comments. I am interested in all comments and criticisms, negative or positive.
David
I totally agree, the black mats just don't look right. I get a lot of those car accessories magazines and there are quite a few custom mats that will actually fit this model, so I will be researching the options.
Yes, the pieces were finished in a medium to dark burl simulated wood. It's amazing to me, too. I am told it looks much better in person, which I do believe, because the light from a flash can really wash out the texture. The vents were done on the console, you'll also notice it on the door handle, the entire lower console was done in the same burl as well as the center console guage surround. The ash tray/radio piece was finished in a simulated "Denali Black Cherry Wood." In the future, I may do the top vents, and I may also have an optional 2nd bottom center console piece in the Denali to mix things up.
For better or worse, I wanted to try something fresh in the GTV-6 interior. Is it for everyone? Probably not.
We do have a push-button starter switch that is located where the mirror toggle switch used to be on the bottom console below the lighter (the mirror switch was traded for a Milano version and moved to the upper center console). The switch that makes the car live is hidden in the steering colum (no, you can't have my address). Actually, the wiring for the whole deal is posted in an earlier pic above - another amazing wiring job.
We also added an armrest, the Isotta brand - I will add a pic below.
The sound system is pretty incredible. Alpine 9887 Imprint head unit - this unit can be calibrated to have sound correctly timed to reach the desired ear at the exact moment intended by the studio; the car has to be taken to a shop($$) that has the software (or I can buy it for $250 - no thanks). Quartz MB 5 1/4s in the front (installation pics above) - the front speakers (which were non-existent in the '86) were cut beautifully by the shop, and again, the wiring is impeccable, first-rate. Same deal in the rear, new Alpine speakers (pictured above), and an Alpine amp in the trunk. All of it impeccably wired.
Yes, the PIAAs are beautiful. They are named: PIAA 90 Pro XT Ion Crystal Fog - Clear Driving Lights. It's a Dual System Bulb Type 12V - H1 55watt=100watt fog, and 12V - H3 85watt=130watt - added to the 400 watt capability of the Greg Gordon/HHiperformancestore.com GTV-6 headlight upgrade kit, man! That's some serious candle power!
Yes, we have the BMW upgrade alternator, important I think. Since the driving lights are covered, here is a pic of what they look like (below).
When I get home from my journey and finish detailing the vehicle I will upload a whole new set of pics.
The engine is stock, but entirely updated. A few of the particulars, all new silicone hose kits from GG @ hiperformancestore.com, new fuel lines (with an added filter outside the tank), new ac/heater/rad. hoses, air intake kit from GG @ hiperformancestore.com, Pandora's Box ECU with a 6800 rev limiter, professionally cleaned/painted radiator service, metal expansion tank (IAP), exhaust valave adjustment, and a plethora of other items replaced. More minutia later.
If you didn't see the custom oil pan guard, give it a look see, available at hiperformancestore.com for an incomprehensibly low figure (I forget, maybe $200). It's nice not having to worry about that.
Thanks for your comments. I am interested in all comments and criticisms, negative or positive.
David
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- ltbmotorsport_1997_23093622.jpg (67.86 KiB) Viewed 6724 times
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- 90proxtlamplarge.jpg (13.36 KiB) Viewed 6736 times
Brilliant looking project. Welding those plates in is so critical with that bar as I have ripped my mounts out on my race car before I got around to weld them. But I have also ripped mounts on a standard anti roll bar so I would say it is a factory flaw if they were taking into consideration the car would still be driven hard 20yrs on from leaving the factory ! You mentioned its going to be 100% street so hopefully your roads are pretty good because the ride will obviously be harsher but totally rewarding on those twisty roads with the rsr kit.
Questions, is that bolt through the gearbox mount uniform thickness right through, Where did you get those headlights or what are they off. Did you rust proof and clean out in the rear window wells(drain holes underneath), boot wells and inside splash guards in front fender. Reason why i asked these last questions as I have just completed a major clean up on one of my cars(getting them ready to take overseas) and found huge amounts of junk(sand) in these areas and this is only four years after last full restoration.
Wish I could get a set of those rear sz discs you have for a reasonable price here in deep dark Africa.
Once again great project.
Questions, is that bolt through the gearbox mount uniform thickness right through, Where did you get those headlights or what are they off. Did you rust proof and clean out in the rear window wells(drain holes underneath), boot wells and inside splash guards in front fender. Reason why i asked these last questions as I have just completed a major clean up on one of my cars(getting them ready to take overseas) and found huge amounts of junk(sand) in these areas and this is only four years after last full restoration.
Wish I could get a set of those rear sz discs you have for a reasonable price here in deep dark Africa.
Once again great project.
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SlewofDamascus
- Gold
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:46 pm
What a very kind thing to say. I have to say that my role was limited to finding the right vehicle with which to start, and I got very lucky here, a one-owner gem, 60k, always garaged, stored in the Winter (this was a NY Alfa), virtually zero rust, excellent condition, probably top 5% for an unmolested, original version.
After that, I just funded the project, while also making stylistic choices in the interior.
The work itself, the "brilliant" work, as you suggest, can now be revealed as that of Greg Gordon (and his father, Bob) and his shop in Sapulpa, Oklahoma, Hiperformancestore.com.
Thank you, Bob, and thank you, Greg!
I am going to be writing a review of my experience with this shop after I get home - I am picking up the vehicle this week (wahooo!).
Good on you for locating the "trouble" spots for GTV-sixes that are otherwise "clean". Greg and Bob make that part of their SOP (Standard Operating Procedures), so all those areas were cleaned out - and boy, did they need it! - and rustproofed. Further, Greg and Bob make these "inaccessable" areas accessible by screwdriver for future cleaning out. They recommend once every 6 months.
I assume you mean the headlamp and not the driving lights, Kevin. That is part of Hiperformancestore.com's headlamp conversion kit as seen here:
http://www.hiperformancestore.com/headlampconv.htm
I chose the bulb-type, and I forget the model I chose. I will ask and report back. They were about $15/a piece.
The gearbox question I will have to ask Greg, or if he sees this, he can answer.
Thanks again for the feedback and questions.
David
After that, I just funded the project, while also making stylistic choices in the interior.
The work itself, the "brilliant" work, as you suggest, can now be revealed as that of Greg Gordon (and his father, Bob) and his shop in Sapulpa, Oklahoma, Hiperformancestore.com.
Thank you, Bob, and thank you, Greg!
I am going to be writing a review of my experience with this shop after I get home - I am picking up the vehicle this week (wahooo!).
Good on you for locating the "trouble" spots for GTV-sixes that are otherwise "clean". Greg and Bob make that part of their SOP (Standard Operating Procedures), so all those areas were cleaned out - and boy, did they need it! - and rustproofed. Further, Greg and Bob make these "inaccessable" areas accessible by screwdriver for future cleaning out. They recommend once every 6 months.
I assume you mean the headlamp and not the driving lights, Kevin. That is part of Hiperformancestore.com's headlamp conversion kit as seen here:
http://www.hiperformancestore.com/headlampconv.htm
I chose the bulb-type, and I forget the model I chose. I will ask and report back. They were about $15/a piece.
The gearbox question I will have to ask Greg, or if he sees this, he can answer.
Thanks again for the feedback and questions.
David
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Greg Gordon
- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Hi Kevin,
I will tackle the gearbox mount question. As always, there is a short answer and a long answer. The short answer is Yes, the bolt is a uniform thickness all the way through.
The long answer is more complex. I assume the idea of having a bolt that's thinner in the middle is so that it will allow for a slight amount of free movement where it passes through the center metal plate in the transaxle mount. In other words, if the bolt is 4mm thinner there the gearbox would be able to move 2mm up or down before the bolt hits metal and begins to minimize the movement.
Here is a better idea, and it's a whole lot easier. Drill an 8mm hole and use a 6mm bolt. Now the transaxle can move 2mm in any direction which is easily enough to take care of any normal vibration, but limit travel when you put your foot down.
We have done this on five cars with total success.
Greg
I will tackle the gearbox mount question. As always, there is a short answer and a long answer. The short answer is Yes, the bolt is a uniform thickness all the way through.
The long answer is more complex. I assume the idea of having a bolt that's thinner in the middle is so that it will allow for a slight amount of free movement where it passes through the center metal plate in the transaxle mount. In other words, if the bolt is 4mm thinner there the gearbox would be able to move 2mm up or down before the bolt hits metal and begins to minimize the movement.
Here is a better idea, and it's a whole lot easier. Drill an 8mm hole and use a 6mm bolt. Now the transaxle can move 2mm in any direction which is easily enough to take care of any normal vibration, but limit travel when you put your foot down.
We have done this on five cars with total success.
Greg
Thanks for replies, I will give it a go on the mounts by drilling it bigger . Not sure if i missed it some where but did your American GTV's have electric windows that actualy wound up before the rain storm finished. Did you upgrade them. I always felt the back should have been electric while you drive with the front closed to get fresh air in in not wind blown on your face as you do with the front open.
Greg, will have to give you shout for those headlights when our currency comes back to normal(yeah right) or maybe i might have to do it the African way and see what I can send you to barter with.(send private).
With your car set up as it is you actualy get to use the full potential of the 2.5 motor and enjoy it because every thing else is so perfect, then as you said maybe 2.8 one day or supercharge.
Great stuff guys
Greg, will have to give you shout for those headlights when our currency comes back to normal(yeah right) or maybe i might have to do it the African way and see what I can send you to barter with.(send private).
With your car set up as it is you actualy get to use the full potential of the 2.5 motor and enjoy it because every thing else is so perfect, then as you said maybe 2.8 one day or supercharge.
Great stuff guys
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Greg Gordon
- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Hi Kevin,
Our electric windows work acceptably well in the GTV6, especially if the alternator voltage is decent and everything is in good order. In truth, I would rather have manual cranks.
I don't think my headlight kit will be usable in South Africa for two reasons. First as far as I know, only the U.S. spec cars have the needed headlight buckets. I have heard the cars sold elsewhere used another mounting system. Second, headlights designed for left hand drive vs right hand drive cars are never the same. I suppose I could sell the kit without the headlights and bulbs. However a large part of the cost is in the wiring harness and relays.
Greg
Our electric windows work acceptably well in the GTV6, especially if the alternator voltage is decent and everything is in good order. In truth, I would rather have manual cranks.
I don't think my headlight kit will be usable in South Africa for two reasons. First as far as I know, only the U.S. spec cars have the needed headlight buckets. I have heard the cars sold elsewhere used another mounting system. Second, headlights designed for left hand drive vs right hand drive cars are never the same. I suppose I could sell the kit without the headlights and bulbs. However a large part of the cost is in the wiring harness and relays.
Greg
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SlewofDamascus
- Gold
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:46 pm
I have awoken now, after about an hour's worth of salt production, and I will be hopping (literally hopping, skipping, and jumping 
) on a plane (two actually) this beautiful April morning at 6, first in Oakland, Ca. and then Denver, heading to Tulsa to meet the Gordon Clan and pick up my brand new 22-year old girlfriend. I mean Alfa.
I haven't been able to sleep well for a few days actually.
I guess this is where I am supposed to flog a Vega..... no, wait, that was something else altogether......a movie........Something About Alfa.
Never mind.
Actually, I wanted to simply comment that, after following many threads over the last six months on how Alfitsi are upgrading their GTV-sixes, with regards to engine power, one method has leaped out to me as the most logical, cost-effective, 2.5 friendly process (and by that I mean not contingent on dumping something so trivial as the original engine - original in the U.S., anyway - down SA Boys
):
Supercharging. Bingo-bango, end-of-story.
Just one man's opinion, of course.
Gotta fly.
Thanks.
David
) on a plane (two actually) this beautiful April morning at 6, first in Oakland, Ca. and then Denver, heading to Tulsa to meet the Gordon Clan and pick up my brand new 22-year old girlfriend. I mean Alfa.I haven't been able to sleep well for a few days actually.
I guess this is where I am supposed to flog a Vega..... no, wait, that was something else altogether......a movie........Something About Alfa.Never mind.
Actually, I wanted to simply comment that, after following many threads over the last six months on how Alfitsi are upgrading their GTV-sixes, with regards to engine power, one method has leaped out to me as the most logical, cost-effective, 2.5 friendly process (and by that I mean not contingent on dumping something so trivial as the original engine - original in the U.S., anyway - down SA Boys
): Supercharging. Bingo-bango, end-of-story.
Just one man's opinion, of course.
Gotta fly.
Thanks.
David
To be honest I would never gone the 24v route if at the time a supercharge kit was available for my 12v motors at a price that you could import. Problem is our currency is worth S!@#$ and I have managed to get two 24v motors basically for the same price. I have already been the twin turbo route but heat was always a problem. Its seriously big work doing the 24v conversions especially from 166 series.
All the hard work has been done by Greg and you just bolt on the kit, upgrade pistons for high boost etc and away you go.
Greg I will send a pic of our lights with clips to see if they are compatible. My xenon conversion with BMW lights cut inti the back of the origional Alfa light took longer than an engine rebuild thats why your conversion looks the way to go.
enjoy Slew
Cheers
All the hard work has been done by Greg and you just bolt on the kit, upgrade pistons for high boost etc and away you go.
Greg I will send a pic of our lights with clips to see if they are compatible. My xenon conversion with BMW lights cut inti the back of the origional Alfa light took longer than an engine rebuild thats why your conversion looks the way to go.
enjoy Slew
Cheers
Looking forward to the first trip report. I've driven two GTV-6s back from remote points of sale. Fun trips with occasional unexpected events.SlewofDamascus wrote:... I will be hopping (literally hopping, skipping, and jumping
....
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twinspark6
- Gold
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 9:07 pm
- Location: san francisco