No, the first motor was done locally - they offered to compensate but I wanted to get more power - so Sperry did the 3rd engine as shown in the photos.GarthW wrote: My god only 10K on the engine, hope you were looked after in that department!!
GV
GV
Last edited by GregoryV on Fri Dec 21, 2007 8:34 am, edited 2 times in total.
20-Years-3-Motors-Later
Thought I'd post these photos from last Fall of my "new" wheels. Since I can't afford the $500 each wheels that I'd like to have I had the original wheels powder coated for about $50/wheel. The color was just called rally silver - I couldn't believe what a difference it made in how the car looks!
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20-Years-3-Motors-Later
Nothing too new to post on my 83 since Summer - dyed the carpets and they turned out nicer than expected, replaced the broken Blaupunkt - but I don't know why since I rarely use it.
I've been weighing out whether to drop the money on the upholstry finally or rebuild the front end ... hard choice, they both need taking care of but the front seats are getting so bad that it may well be time.
The cold weather finally hit us in California here (45-degrees) and my idle has been real rough and up/down when cold so I pulled the AAV valve, cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and that did the trick.
Else, my odometer reads 199,076 miles on it - wow - never thought I'd own any car THAT long!!!
GV
I've been weighing out whether to drop the money on the upholstry finally or rebuild the front end ... hard choice, they both need taking care of but the front seats are getting so bad that it may well be time.
The cold weather finally hit us in California here (45-degrees) and my idle has been real rough and up/down when cold so I pulled the AAV valve, cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and that did the trick.
Else, my odometer reads 199,076 miles on it - wow - never thought I'd own any car THAT long!!!
GV20-Years-3-Motors-Later
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Greg Gordon
- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
The wheels look great. I really like the original GTV6 wheels.
If it were my car I would overhaul the suspension before the seats. That always brings a lot of extra driving pleasure. For an event great suspension improvement you can upgrade all the bushings and create what I describe here as a "suspension stage 1" : http://www.hiperformancestore.com/newpage6.htm
Greg Gordon
If it were my car I would overhaul the suspension before the seats. That always brings a lot of extra driving pleasure. For an event great suspension improvement you can upgrade all the bushings and create what I describe here as a "suspension stage 1" : http://www.hiperformancestore.com/newpage6.htm
Greg Gordon
Thanks, yeah I was really pleased with the wheels - huge difference from looking ugly to really sharpGreg Gordon wrote:The wheels look great. I really like the original GTV6 wheels.
If it were my car I would overhaul the suspension before the seats. That always brings a lot of extra driving pleasure. For an event great suspension improvement you can upgrade all the bushings and create what I describe here as a "suspension stage 1" : http://www.hiperformancestore.com/newpage6.htm
Greg Gordon
Greg - next to the dedion bushing all the rear has been done to your stage 1 except I have poly on the rear bar ... on thinking about this my guess on your advice is that this keeps the rear a little softer in roll and thus helps the front end bite a little better and thus reduce understeer - right?
The plan was to replace all suspension bushings up front, if I do it myself the money saved will pay for at least one seat to be recovered. I'm pretty mechanical but those torsion bars and height adjustment + the lower A-arm bushing replacement still scare me a bit as to the level of difficulty. One person says it's a SOB another says they lowered the car 1/2-hour per side??
GV
20-Years-3-Motors-Later
GregoryV,
The front end rebuild isn't all that bad.
if you want the same front ride hight measure from somewhere (mark the spot yourself) on the fender lip above the lower control arm to the outer end of the lower control arm after you've disconnected the upright and the anti sway bar, but before doing anything else. When you put it back just get the same measurement before hooking up the upright and the sway bar.
you will need a press or be really good with a hammer to do the lower control arm bushes.
Don't loose track of the shims under the lower control arm pivot bolts you need them to go back where they came from.
If you go for the poly upper control arm bushes you will want to get some big washers to go over the bit of tube that sticks out of the body. The poly bushes go in a little different than the old rubber ones and will slide out of position and over that bit of tube without the washers. (I think Greg Gordon has a pic of this on his site)
The whole thing is not hard. There is a bunch to it and it will take a bit of time. Aside from the anti roll bar you can do one side at a time so that you can see what its supposed to look like in one piece as you go along.
You will see that the brake shield allows for no air to get to the center of the disc. I removed mine and get better braking in the dry, but water can get to the disc in the wet and make braking worse. I don't know the concensus on this little mod.
hth,
Scott
The front end rebuild isn't all that bad.
if you want the same front ride hight measure from somewhere (mark the spot yourself) on the fender lip above the lower control arm to the outer end of the lower control arm after you've disconnected the upright and the anti sway bar, but before doing anything else. When you put it back just get the same measurement before hooking up the upright and the sway bar.
you will need a press or be really good with a hammer to do the lower control arm bushes.
Don't loose track of the shims under the lower control arm pivot bolts you need them to go back where they came from.
If you go for the poly upper control arm bushes you will want to get some big washers to go over the bit of tube that sticks out of the body. The poly bushes go in a little different than the old rubber ones and will slide out of position and over that bit of tube without the washers. (I think Greg Gordon has a pic of this on his site)
The whole thing is not hard. There is a bunch to it and it will take a bit of time. Aside from the anti roll bar you can do one side at a time so that you can see what its supposed to look like in one piece as you go along.
You will see that the brake shield allows for no air to get to the center of the disc. I removed mine and get better braking in the dry, but water can get to the disc in the wet and make braking worse. I don't know the concensus on this little mod.
hth,
Scott
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Greg Gordon
- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
The suspension work is not too tough, follow the instructions on my tech page for the ride height adjustment. Scott's description of the procedure is good, but there are pictures along with the text on my site.
I am not sure I understand the question about the rear anti-sway bar bushings, however stiffer bushing there will reduce understeer.
Greg
I am not sure I understand the question about the rear anti-sway bar bushings, however stiffer bushing there will reduce understeer.
Greg
Thanks for the comments
Chuck I need to look up the Powder Coater, but they were in Concord - All they do is powder coat, they don't fill nicks and restore, etc. I'll e-mail you the name, number in the next few days.
Greg - thanks for the link! I've read your how-to before and the part that had me freaked was the needing a 6 foot pry bar and 200 lb. person to pry the A-arm down ... but now I see that is just for the bigger Torsion bars so I am in the clear (just want to get the nose down to the Euro spec.)
2 Questions to anyone who has done this:
1 Question: If I put a Verde Bar 24mm or just a Milano 22mm bar up front do the mounts at the body need reinforcing, or is that just for much bigger bars?
2 Question: It seems like I can do the rebuild with the rear wheels on the ground - does that work or does the whole car need to be up?
Thanks for the info.
I will order up bushings and parts and then start a thread when I get going ...
GV
Chuck I need to look up the Powder Coater, but they were in Concord - All they do is powder coat, they don't fill nicks and restore, etc. I'll e-mail you the name, number in the next few days.
Greg - thanks for the link! I've read your how-to before and the part that had me freaked was the needing a 6 foot pry bar and 200 lb. person to pry the A-arm down ... but now I see that is just for the bigger Torsion bars so I am in the clear (just want to get the nose down to the Euro spec.)
2 Questions to anyone who has done this:
1 Question: If I put a Verde Bar 24mm or just a Milano 22mm bar up front do the mounts at the body need reinforcing, or is that just for much bigger bars?
2 Question: It seems like I can do the rebuild with the rear wheels on the ground - does that work or does the whole car need to be up?
Thanks for the info.
I will order up bushings and parts and then start a thread when I get going ...
GV
20-Years-3-Motors-Later
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Greg Gordon
- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm
Answer 1. No reinforcing is needed with the 22mm or 24mm front anti-sway bars. I do suggest using reinforcing plates with any aftermarket bar.
Answer 2. Most of the rear suspension work can be done with the rear suspension on the ground. However if you are changing rear springs or the main Dedion bushing at the front you will need to support the car on jackstands.
Greg Gordon,
www.hiperformancestore.com
Answer 2. Most of the rear suspension work can be done with the rear suspension on the ground. However if you are changing rear springs or the main Dedion bushing at the front you will need to support the car on jackstands.
Greg Gordon,
www.hiperformancestore.com
I think (think) he's asking if he can do the front suspension with the rear on the ground.....I'd say yes as its how I did mine. Just get the car on stands and set well before starting to disassemble.
As well you can do the rear suspension with the front on the ground, though you may want the extra room of having the front up when doing the DeDion bush at the front of the triangle.
hth,
Scott
As well you can do the rear suspension with the front on the ground, though you may want the extra room of having the front up when doing the DeDion bush at the front of the triangle.
hth,
Scott
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Greg Gordon
- Verde
- Posts: 1552
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:06 pm