ALFAGTV6.COM

Hello to all.

I bought the GTV6 that was for sale in craigs list in the Los Angles area.

Paid 1750 for it. It has a 3.0, bad synchros, decent interior, 205-60-15 tires, runs smooth, no driveline vibes.

I'm in Fresno, Ca. and I'd like to talk to someone around here about the 3.0 conversion. Whatever they did to the throttle linkage they ought to be shot for.

Looks like it needs a center driveshaft bearing and a clutch throw out bearing as there is a bearing noise all the time that gets louder with the clutch applied.

It also needs ball joints on the left side.

DEFINATLY a VAST improvement in ride over my 67 MGBGT.

Scott

DEFINATLY a VAST improvement in ride over my 67 MGBGT

...then again , what isn't?

Scott,

You will find the GTV-6 is pretty straight forward to repair. I did my driveline in about 3 or 4 hours this fall with help from my young sons (10 & 12)? I suggest you buy a Cardisk CD and read-up on whatever you tackle here 1st.

The orientation of the driveline is critical to maintaining its balance. Keep that in mind and do your homework before hand and things go easily. The only thing I can tell you about the clutch is that the hydraulics are tough to bleed. I find that leaving it overnight after bleeding usually, but not always, brings the pedal up where it should be.

The driveline is pretty noisy regardless of its condition so be sure before you dive into it. A close inspection of the center bearing will reveal play (when they go play is major) and you know the drill for a TO bearing. Be sure to lubricate splines well and also the pivot ball. I do the pivot with every oil change.

Enjoy!

Hi:

I'd suggest reading this....

http://www.alfagtv6.com/drv_shft.htm

Should help you out in regard to repairing the driveshaft since there are lots of things to watch out for.

Cheers,

Thanks guys!

I had been reading about the driveshaft quirks for some time now, so thanks again.

I took the plenum off an found that I was getting 40 to 50% opening of the throttle with the pedal on the floor. Looks like a previous ownertried to use the GTV6 cable and linkage on the milano throttle body and came up with a brazed up mess. Sooooo I'm now looking for a milano throttle cable bracket and cable. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott

Been a while since I've updated things here, so here goes...

The supposed 3.o is a 2.5 from an 88 Milano. and had low (100lbs) compression.
I've bought a 3.0 to build for the car...164S pistons and cams, new bearings, etc, etc.
The car will be for street use and smogged (lovely thing, that Ca smog check).

Found out i needed to rebuild the front end when suddenly the front tires were worn out. I put in poly bushes everywhere and made some big washers for the upper control arm to keep the bushes in place (thanks Kev or Barry I forget who was responsible for that little trick). Later, I bought a Milano front sway bar with poly bushes from Jes. That sway bar and the poly bushes got the front end doing what I want.

The rear suspension has had the poly bush treatment as well, but I haven't done the DeDion bush yet.

Thanks to Greg Gordon I now have silicon intake plumbing and vaccum hoses. As a bonus I have no more vaccum leaks .

After a 1500 mile trip to see my Dad in Tuscon, I found my injector hoses leaking (I think 3 of them). When I went to pull the fuel rail out all 6 hoses parted (argh me gorrila) even though I didnt pull on it all that hard. I put in new injector to manifold seals as 2 injectors spun in their seats and the rest of the seals were hard as rocks.

Somewhere in there I put in a new timing belt. I also put in Iridium spark plugs, which seem to be worth the money.

TIMING IS NOT A SMALL TOWN IN CHINA. Very important, that. When I did the timing belt and subsequent ignition timing I got the 'F' and 'P' marks reversed in my head while following Greg's timing advice. Yesterday I decided to revisit the timing setting, pulled out Greg's notes on the topic, and realized the error of my ways. I now have an engine that makes a (wee) bit more power.

I'm now running 205/55-15 tires and I don't have the rubbing that I did with the 205/60's.

The car is getting better as I go, thanks to you all on this forum

Scott

Ah, great to see you making progress on the weapon..we all share your sense of achievement. It's what the forum is all about for me.

I'm going to be in the Portland, Oregon / Vancouver, Washington area all next week. Are there any people or places I should visit?

Thanks in advance,
Scott

i'm gonna try to post a pic of mine

i hope i can figgure this out

that worked....lets try another

Well, time for another update.
I had Larry Jr. at APE build the transaxle and it needed a few bits, 4 synchros, 2 synchro hubs, 2 shift forks, seals all around, a newer clutch, another clutch front housing that had good bearings in it.

I put in the poly Dedion bush, new trans mounts, new engine mounts, new driveshaft couplings.

I found an old Shankle header set and had it coated by Caps here in Fresno. then had the a mid section built at a local shop with a new cat and a resonator. this joined the Ansa back box that I already had on the car.

I finished the 3.0 as a 164S Engine...10to 1 compression, 164S cams, new bearings, balanced, etc.

I drove it for 3000mi and then on tuesday this past week, it siezed. Lack of oil pressure is the culprit, but why I don't know yet. The oil pressure sender was being flakey (i checked with a mecanical gage) so I wasn't really paying much attention to it. The engine started making clanking noises, so i went to pull off the road and when i stepped on the clutch it stopped. So now I need to do it all over again.

Too bad!

how much oil left on the dipstick?

mid range ....ie just fine....plenty of oil.

and now its raining, so i was going to start on that , but not now.

Gummed up oil galleries?