ALFAGTV6.COM

Brian16 · Post by **Brian16** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 6:04 am

Hi there,
About time I introduced myself. Brian Sexton, I am originaly from Ireland but live in Sweden where, like some other contributors to this forum, I work for that car Company in Gothenburg. Yes, the ones that make nice safe family cars or, as they say in the movies "There're boxy but there're good!" I work on Engine Management Systems, which is a lot of fun.
I am on my 2nd GTV6, the present one I purchased 2 years ago and have been doing some small jobs on it. I recently got my hands on a 3.0L 75 and took it to the scrap yard last week after stripping it of everything useful. The winter project is to renovate the 3.0L engine and put it into the GTV6.
Anyone have any tips on removing the front pulley nut ?? Is it just brute force and lots of torque ??
// Brian.

Alfist-GTV6 · Post by **Alfist-GTV6** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 6:39 am

Hi Brian,
Welcome.

Murray · Post by **Murray** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 6:41 am

Brian welcome aboard ! For the front pully nut I find that a good sharp wack is usefull in order to break the bond between the nut and the crank.What I did was place a long piece of angle iron between the flywheel studs and my concrete floor to prevent rotation.I then used by sturdy rachet on the nut and gave it a good wack with a rubber mallet.Worked for me hopefully it will for you.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 2:56 pm

Impact gun...and have a buddy hold a long metal bar between the flywheel studs

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 3:31 pm

Hi Brian, welcome.

Did we chat on friday? Outside Duetten, Axel was there too?

Brian16 · Post by **Brian16** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:46 am

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the comments. No Mats. it was not me last Friday. Looking forward to meeting you sometime. Now it's back to that Front Pulley nut. It will do for this weeks workout !!
// Brian.

Dennis · Post by **Dennis** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 12:34 am

Well if brute force won't work... You can drill two holes in opposite positions in the nut and seperate it with a punch. The nut cracks and the pulley comes of. I've always have done it this way since brute force didn't work. Takes me 10 minutes now to get the pulley off (and yes I do always try first with the impact gun.....).

You will have to buy a new nut, but they don't cost much and it's good for peace of mind to use a new one.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:12 am

Dennis wrote:Well if brute force won't work... You can drill two holes in opposite positions in the nut and seperate it with a punch. The nut cracks and the pulley comes of. I've always have done it this way since brute force didn't work. Takes me 10 minutes now to get the pulley off (and yes I do always try first with the impact gun.....).

You will have to buy a new nut, but they don't cost much and it's good for peace of mind to use a new one.

You got mountings from Ron yet?

MD · Post by MD » Mon Nov 13, 2006 2:21 am

Welcome Brian,

Regarding the tight pulley nut. I see we have had a variety of suggestions all of which should help. Naturally vibration prior to or during the rotation is very usefull.

If for some reason a previous assembly has used a thread lock chemical then this technique will often not help. The suggestion by Dennis of course will in all circumstances.

My personal choice is to heat the nut up sufficiently to burn out the thread lock chemical and cause a break in the bond by expansion. After that even a relativley moderate impact wrench will remove it.

PM me if you want to know about the heating technique.

An Alfista from Sweden