Hi there,
About time I introduced myself. Brian Sexton, I am originaly from Ireland but live in Sweden where, like some other contributors to this forum, I work for that car Company in Gothenburg. Yes, the ones that make nice safe family cars or, as they say in the movies "There're boxy but there're good!" I work on Engine Management Systems, which is a lot of fun.
I am on my 2nd GTV6, the present one I purchased 2 years ago and have been doing some small jobs on it. I recently got my hands on a 3.0L 75 and took it to the scrap yard last week after stripping it of everything useful. The winter project is to renovate the 3.0L engine and put it into the GTV6.
Anyone have any tips on removing the front pulley nut ?? Is it just brute force and lots of torque ??
// Brian.
An Alfista from Sweden
- Attachments
-
- The Magic Number !.JPG (170.95 KiB) Viewed 7283 times
-
- This comes out.JPG (154.4 KiB) Viewed 7283 times
-
- This goes in.JPG (186.59 KiB) Viewed 7283 times
La vita e troppo breve da non guidare un'Alfa
- Alfist-GTV6
- Silver
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2004 12:03 pm
- Location: Oude Pekela, the Netherlands
- Contact:
Brian welcome aboard ! For the front pully nut I find that a good sharp wack is usefull in order to break the bond between the nut and the crank.What I did was place a long piece of angle iron between the flywheel studs and my concrete floor to prevent rotation.I then used by sturdy rachet on the nut and gave it a good wack with a rubber mallet.Worked for me hopefully it will for you.
1986-GTV6
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
- Dennis
- Gold
- Posts: 194
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2004 8:44 am
- Location: Amersfoort, The Netherlands
- Contact:
Well if brute force won't work... You can drill two holes in opposite positions in the nut and seperate it with a punch. The nut cracks and the pulley comes of. I've always have done it this way since brute force didn't work. Takes me 10 minutes now to get the pulley off (and yes I do always try first with the impact gun.....).
You will have to buy a new nut, but they don't cost much and it's good for peace of mind to use a new one.
You will have to buy a new nut, but they don't cost much and it's good for peace of mind to use a new one.
'81 GTV6 3.0 QV
'91 75 TS (track)
'02 BMW 330i Touring
'91 75 TS (track)
'02 BMW 330i Touring
You got mountings from Ron yet?Dennis wrote:Well if brute force won't work... You can drill two holes in opposite positions in the nut and seperate it with a punch. The nut cracks and the pulley comes of. I've always have done it this way since brute force didn't work. Takes me 10 minutes now to get the pulley off (and yes I do always try first with the impact gun.....).
You will have to buy a new nut, but they don't cost much and it's good for peace of mind to use a new one.
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
Welcome Brian,
Regarding the tight pulley nut. I see we have had a variety of suggestions all of which should help. Naturally vibration prior to or during the rotation is very usefull.
If for some reason a previous assembly has used a thread lock chemical then this technique will often not help. The suggestion by Dennis of course will in all circumstances.
My personal choice is to heat the nut up sufficiently to burn out the thread lock chemical and cause a break in the bond by expansion. After that even a relativley moderate impact wrench will remove it.
PM me if you want to know about the heating technique.
Regarding the tight pulley nut. I see we have had a variety of suggestions all of which should help. Naturally vibration prior to or during the rotation is very usefull.
If for some reason a previous assembly has used a thread lock chemical then this technique will often not help. The suggestion by Dennis of course will in all circumstances.
My personal choice is to heat the nut up sufficiently to burn out the thread lock chemical and cause a break in the bond by expansion. After that even a relativley moderate impact wrench will remove it.
PM me if you want to know about the heating technique.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse