ALFAGTV6.COM

[Mats]

Have you tried the SZ with Anti-Roll bars?

[Niclas]

Have you tried the SZ with Anti-Roll bars?

HA HA, Yes the SZ rolls quite a lot. But rember it has standard springs and dampers.

How much do your GTV roll with standard torsion springs (19 mm?)

[Mats]

Who cares!?

[kevin]

Mats, your right who cares. These are the best two Alfas I have seen on the track. Luckey bastidge !!

[MD]

Niclas,
You have been extremely generous and helpful to the guys on the forum who are into racing or at least thinking about it along with Micke, Mats, Kevin,Jes and others. We all need people to inspire us. Thank you.

It's my turn to help you. ( Iam saying the follwing based on what I understand is the meaning of your post)

I absolutley do not recommend using a driveshaft without at least one cushioning rubber coupling to dampen out the combustion hammerings up and down the propshaft at revs under 1800rpm. Very noisey and disconcerting (not to mention embarrasing with people in the pits looking and thinking, cant that guy hear that prop shaft is about to fall off ?? !!). I have no personal experience with CF shafts like jes is using and I think based upon the materials of the CF shaft, it would be the only exception to this recommendation.

I have spent thousands of bucks to sort through a variety of shaft designs and experimented combinations so this advice is from hard won experience. Use the CV's by all means but place a rubber coupling on the shaft and modify the mounts to take a modern (BMW) type coupling and use 12mm bolts. To avoid the locating problems and dampen down the hammering from the engine, the best place for this is the first coupling behind the engine.

If the hammering noise does not trouble you, by all means do what you feel is right. I am just giving you the heads up.

[Niclas]

Niclas,
You have been extremely generous and helpful to the guys on the forum who are into racing or at least thinking about it along with Micke, Mats, Kevin,Jes and others. We all need people to inspire us. Thank you.

It's my turn to help you. ( Iam saying the follwing based on what I understand is the meaning of your post)

I absolutley do not recommend using a driveshaft without at least one cushioning rubber coupling to dampen out the combustion hammerings up and down the propshaft at revs under 1800rpm. Very noisey and disconcerting (not to mention embarrasing with people in the pits looking and thinking, cant that guy hear that prop shaft is about to fall off ?? !!). I have no personal experience with CF shafts like jes is using and I think based upon the materials of the CF shaft, it would be the only exception to this recommendation.

I have spent thousands of bucks to sort through a variety of shaft designs and experimented combinations so this advice is from hard won experience. Use the CV's by all means but place a rubber coupling on the shaft and modify the mounts to take a modern (BMW) type coupling and use 12mm bolts. To avoid the locating problems and dampen down the hammering from the engine, the best place for this is the first coupling behind the engine.

If the hammering noise does not trouble you, by all means do what you feel is right. I am just giving you the heads up.

Hi MD !
Thanks for your comments.

Rattle is OK as long as parts does not go into pieces. I am constantly afraid that my original shaft will break. I have replaced front rubber several times.

I understand your concerns and I read a lot of shaft stuff in this forum.
I would like to test a new design and see if its work.
I will post some pictures of the parts that will be my new shaft.
Mats have "almost" same design on his shaft.

[kevin]

Strangest thing you guys might think but the most reliable parte on my race car is my propshaft which I thought would be my archiles. The front coupling cage totally prevents the front coupling from distorting and from the marks on the cage it twists up to 10mm the bolts have left. As i have mentioned before that after three years of racing the coupling still looks brand new with no cracks. I should probably put one on the rear but I will try another season and see. Even on my 3.7 I have no problems. Must just get gearbox sorted but i think i have found the real problem. Not discuss in Niclas thread.

[Mats]

Mats have "almost" same design on his shaft.

Yes, but you have a V6. Engine fire frequency is higher, won't be an issue I hope because you will pass the critical rev range quite fast.

[Niclas]

Time to do some updating:

In our Swedish Alfa Challenge serie we have had races on a track called Ring Knutstorp and on a track called Kinnekulle. Two races on each track.

For Ring Knutstorp I had a new lightweigt EVO front on car. This front with a splitter weights only 6 kg. My car worked very well and a managed to win both races. Best laptime was 1.07.7 min

Here are some pictures:

knut_2.jpg (88.52 KiB) Viewed 6865 times

knut_5.jpg (21.44 KiB) Viewed 6861 times

Knutan_0906146_sized.jpg (79.57 KiB) Viewed 6865 times

Before our race at Kinnekulle last weekend I had put in a brand new floormounted pedalbox with a brake balancer bar. I also had new pads on both front and rear axle. Front I used Ferodo DS2.11 and Rear Ferodo DS3000. Both pedalbox and pads worked extremly well. I managed to do laptimes under 1 minute. Best time was on Sunday with 59,711 sek. I won both races at Kinnekulle.

Kinnekulle pictures:

Interior.jpg (150.41 KiB) Viewed 6865 times

Engine.jpg (151.82 KiB) Viewed 6870 times

[fedezyl]

What a gorgeous car!! any in car vids???

[Niclas]

Another driver in a GTV took this video in race two last weekend. He started from forth position.
Iam in front off him the first lap. Then another Alfa 75 3,0 pass him.

http://www.race.d2g.com/files/mov/2009/ ... _race2.wmv

[Dennis]

Wow Niclas, that sure is one mean machine! What size cilinders did you use for the brakes. I have a 7/8 for the front and a 3/4 for the back, but wasn't too impressed with the increase in feel or performance (pagid rs4 pads). What type of material did you use for the splitter and does it cover the underside of the engine bay aswell?

Also, don't you have cooling issues with all the holes above the radiator? Or do you have some type of ducting?

[Niclas]

Wow Niclas, that sure is one mean machine! What size cilinders did you use for the brakes. I have a 7/8 for the front and a 3/4 for the back, but wasn't too impressed with the increase in feel or performance (pagid rs4 pads). What type of material did you use for the splitter and does it cover the underside of the engine bay aswell?

Also, don't you have cooling issues with all the holes above the radiator? Or do you have some type of ducting?

Front brake I have 0,70
Rear brake it is 0,75

You usually should have a "smaller" cylinder to front brakes.


My "splitter" is 4 mm plywood (pressed wood) and it overlaps oilsump (front) with just 2 cm.

Cooling is OK but I get a lot off air into engine bay so I usually needs some addessive tejp to keep the hood on the car in higher speed (above 180 km/h)
I will look into this and do a better design off air flow.

[Mats]

Very nice indeed.

Looks like Johans car was leaking pretty early in the race? At least judging from the first picture in your post.

"Under minuten" is seriously fast, about 3½ seconds better then my time on a ~1min lap.

[Niclas]

Very nice indeed.

Looks like Johans car was leaking pretty early in the race? At least judging from the first picture in your post.

"Under minuten" is seriously fast, about 3½ seconds better then my time on a ~1min lap.

Hmm, You are probably right about Johans car. You must have eagle eyes.

Will you be on the grid at Mantorp ?