ALFAGTV6.COM

Hi Guys,

I'm Martin, and I'm from Brisbane Australia.

I've just purchased an 82 GTV 2L to build a track car out of. I'm new to alfas, so I'm in the hunt for information.

In particular, I want to put a 24V motor in, maybe even a 3.2/GTA motor.

Here's some pics:







Cheers,

Martin

There are definately more mods needed to put a v6 into a 2.0 but personally I would start with getting the car into track shape first with that motor ie cage , petrrol tanks, suspension , brakes etc. Then I would turbo it as now you would have your suspension set up for the 2.0 weight but its no great pain to chainge spring rate if going coil over. There is so much work before you even start with the motor to make a half reliable safe track car. Do some reading on the varoius threads . check out race car section.

Sure you want to go V6 , check this out. Even though yours is different this car beats all 3.0 v6 and 24v 3.0.'s and its only 2.0.

Echo Kevin.

Thanks Guys,

I know there is much to be done, the intention was never just to slap a V6 in and go racing. Already started stripping her ready for a cage.

But, engine choice will decide a lot of what has to be done. As kevin mentioned, suspension rates will change, I am not sure if I can tie the cage into the front strut towers (like the car above) and still clear the top of the V6, etc. So I am currently researching the options, so I can plan the car appropriately.

I don't think I'll ever really be happy with the 4cyl (even though I know there are a number of good race cars that use it), I just love the Alfa V6 engine . But that said, what sort of power can be made out of the 2L?

• Worked, NA, Carby?
• Worked, NA, Converted to EFI?
• Turboed?

Cheers,

Martin

First question you should ask is what class you want to race in... then decide what to do to the car from there.
Nothing worse than building a car without paying attention to class rules and winding up being classed as a sports sedan and having to race with 600hp tube framed scratch built racers...

If you start with a chrome bumper GTV you'd be eligible to play in Group S (historic sports cars). I think you're stuck with Group 2B and Group 2F sports... in which case you can log book it as a GTV6 with as big a 12v as you can go in 2B, or 2.5l in 2F

rough estimates:
2.0 twinspark (from 75) should be good for 180-200 hp
2.0 nord (what you have) can get 160-180 hp
turbo 2.0 (either) will do 200-300 hp
2.5v6 will go 180-210 hp
3.0v6 200-230 hp
3.0v624v NFI?
3.2v624v also NFI?
efi will add drivability

turbo nord is the best bang for buck - but per above, think about the class you are building for.
4cyl will handle better too

Kev, any idea what that thing weighs? Looks light from the interior shot, I can see lots of stuff missing

Jason, I think your HP estimates are a bit light on...
200hp is quite achievable with a single plug 2l by most accounts,
220hp is being achieved by the big valve twinsparks by Alfaholics
3l 12vs have been making 300+ at the hands of guys like Rich Jemison for some time now, even with the stock GTV6 style plennum - so 250 has to be a logical extension for a 2.5.

100hp/l is doable even with the ropey ports and combustion chamber of the nord, so apart from a rev ceiling imposed by the exhaust rockers, why shouldn't it be possible with the better chambers/ports of a 12v?

24valvers - well, 400hp gets bandied around for some of the big bore ones,
Turbo 1.8/2l - skys the limit really - Benincas were making 600hp or something ridiculous with their sports sedan...

la_strega_nera wrote:First question you should ask is what class you want to race in... then decide what to do to the car from there.
Nothing worse than building a car without paying attention to class rules and winding up being classed as a sports sedan and having to race with 600hp tube framed scratch built racers...

If you start with a chrome bumper GTV you'd be eligible to play in Group S (historic sports cars). I think you're stuck with Group 2B and Group 2F sports... in which case you can log book it as a GTV6 with as big a 12v as you can go in 2B, or 2.5l in 2F

Thanks mate,

Most of the stuff at QR and Lakeside is run under AASA not CAMS, but I have been reading up on CAMS regs in case I do want to run in a CAMS event at some stage.

One thing I wasn't sure of was if the car can be logged booked as a GTV6 even though it is a GTV? Is this the case?

Cheers,

Martin

Smity42 wrote: One thing I wasn't sure of was if the car can be logged booked as a GTV6 even though it is a GTV? Is this the case?

My understanding is that yes, you can do this - half the GTHO falcons in Nc were 6cyl falcons/fairmonts when they left the factory...

If you like the v6 then go that route other wise you will never be happy. Handling goes for a loop as well compared to the four cyl but they still handle brilliantly. Easiest bolt on suspension leaving torsion bars on is from RS racing. The brace is no problem. Check out french web site in their pic section . www. scuderiadelbiscione.com
When you go v6 need to chainge engine mounts , propshaft , bell housing(assuming you dont have a complte donor engine). If you want to convert box then you need the bigger hubs with drivshafts.
Ben , car weighs just over 800kg .

smitty42: check out the link on front page of this site to Brian Berger's car(top left ..red car). He may have some input/data for you....

plus he has a nice dyno run on his web site...

link is gone...

try this:
http://www.alfagtv6.com/b_berger.htm

hp estimates are conservative - the net is full of peeps saying a lot more is possible, which may or may not be correct

Power is nothing without a gearbox...