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sh0rtlife
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not quite off topic :lol:

Post by sh0rtlife »

ok "hopefully" this site can handle this...as ive witnessed in the time ive been here this site is a tad more laid back and open to modifications.....if the mods wish to delete this feel free to it wont hurt my feelings none...especially if it starts a flame war

ive come to a point in my project where im needing answers to questions that require someone willing to help..and well that rules out the purists who cant look past the end of there nose pointed into the clouds. i need help from the guys who use and abuse there cars drive em hard and put em away dirty and wet

soo if you can lend me some help along the way GREAT!! hell even some kind words is good too

sit back and enjoy the read and the pic's its a long one

i joined this site looking for information to repair a 83 gtv6(actually its a "leftover" ballocco in every detail) for a friend and got a good bit of info enuf to help me put the car back together (driveline and engine had been swapped but nothing bolted up or plumbed)..i had NEVER worked on an alfa let alone seen one short of a spider..after figuring out the car and taking it for a test drive i was in love with its Italian nature ...and ive always been into muscle and 50's stuff like my 58 ford or 67-69 cudas...the gtv6 was HEAVEN in comparison...another friend was perched to buy it..few months later the seller re-poed it due to lack of payments and was owing me money and gave me the car


the PROJECT
started as a ROTTED OUT 1958 lloyd Alexander TS which well is VERY unimpressive in stock form 600 cc 2cyl 4 stroke air cooled 25hp...0-60 in 60 sec with a top speed of 61mph a SCARY leaf spring front end and tiny drum brakes riding on 15x2.5 tires weighing in at 1200lbs with a 78 inch wheel base..the car is capable of sitting on a 4x8 sheet of plywood or in the bed of most pickups..its small enuf to make a 70s mini cooper look big

last year feb 7 2007 a friend of a friend had a 87 milano platinum that would not sell for 6 months and was going to be impounded unless it had a home within 2 hours..i was called and it was offered to me for basically free ..i jumped up got a u-haul tow dolly(yeah i know BAD for a transaxle car but didnt have a choice) drove it out of the apartment parking lot around the block and onto the dolly...the LAST drive the car would ever have in its "stock" state..sad but i have FAR to many projects that will never be finished and lacked the space and need for a 4dr...to me the car was to be the PERFECT donor car(first 4dr ive ever owned actually not counting the Lincoln my wife had when we got married which we cut up, parted out shortly after getting married)...the milano itself i was not aware of the platinum status until deep into the project... the status on the milano..120k miles and a HUGE oil leak(initially told it was blown cam seals its actually the oil pressure sender), desperate need of a tune up and only 2 rust spots about 1/2inch in size..almost perfect paint just miner dings and scratches(yes i know a shame to do anything with it but drive it)

lets face it if i fell in love with the gtv6 the milano is nothing more than a bigger heavier longer gtv6...it only seemed right to use it for the lloyd

to those worried about me not finishing it...i will...it has FULLY taken over my shop ALL other side projects, ideas, and hobbies have taken a back seat to this thing...and there is ZERO expense on it well very little anyway as i dont have to pay others to do any work..i do it all myself, fabrication, welding, body, paint, anything mechanical or electrical...lets just put it this way..the lloyd cost me a mustang 5spd i had laying around and ive put a TOTAL of less than 600$ into the lloyd project and that INCLUDES the brand new tires 300$ and a set of the early gtv6 13lb wheels 150$ most of the rest is piece of steel

onto the pic's
day one of the lloyd with me by its side(im 6foot 4inches)
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a shot of its VERY scary engine, trans, front suspension, steering, brakes
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the main frame of the car was pretty much rotted out to the point of not save able but i did save it initially before the idea change to use another engine/trans which the original idea change was to be a 2.5 turbo from a FWD mopar...rockers and floors were a total loss...the bonus with a lloyd is the ENTIRE body of the car comes apart with about 300 10mm bolts and screws...roof, hood, fender, rear lower quarters, rear upper quarters and window section, windshield frame..you name it, it unbolts down about the same as a VW bug chassis does except the lloyd body comes completely apart...i focused on alot of the body work early on and have made some minor changes

onto a few shots of the milano
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at this point if you have a weak heart/stomach for injured alfa's turn back now

the primary trouble with the milano is its FAR to long for the lloyd 78inch wheel base(2000mm) this meant the milano needed to not only go on a HUGE diet but also 20 inches had to come out...but first i had to do a few things..i tuned the engine tracked down the oil leak, pressure washed every inch of the car including the engine and transaxle..and went hunting for a "small" 15inch tire settling on the smallest in my budget a 195/50/15...this would net me a very level car...drove it into the shop and started building a level jig in which to cut the car..i basically made a "crude" limo/hurse frame jig where the car gets 100% leveled then the front of the car welded to the jig, the rear half of the car gets welded to a sliding jig attached to the main jig frame..this results in a 99% perfect alignment of the front and rear half of the car to either add or remove floor and frame...the milano had to lose 20 inches to bring it down to the right wheel base......once the car was level i striped the car to the bone, double checked my measurements and welded it down to the jig
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now for the diet
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20 inches before and after no photo chopping here, take note of the perfect alignment of the rocker NOTICE the lloyd in the back ground of my 20x20foot shop
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the next obvious step was to temp weld the rockers together and brace the car as much as possible and then take it on the EXTREME diet(i took alot of care into how and where i cut thinking someone somewhere could use any part i cut off the car figured someone who races would eventually want/need a core support or tail section)
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with all of my braces in place it was a moment of truth..to cut the car off the jig and see if everything was still straight square and true...everything came out within 1/16th of an inch of perfect...that better than when the factory built it in the first place
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a needless test fit to plot my next move...with HUGE tire problems but it planted a picture into my head on where to go
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the OBVIOUS solution was to shift the wheel wells up 3 inches so the body could sit lower on the milano and move the fenders out 4 inches the full length of the body to accommodate the width of the milano chassis
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next i spent some time here looking at most of you guys race cars drawing ideas and placement of tube frame support to further diet and support the remaining milano as well as the ability to further remove even more of the remaining "fat" after extensively studying the modifications most of the "caged" guys do, i decided that the shock towers MUST be re-enforced and tied into as much as possible..the next spot was the strut rod and sway bar mount and came up with this
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next the rockers of the milano were only a temp and had to go..with the structure heavily braced and the front end tubed it was time to cut out the rockers and replace them with some square tube and tie them into the new front end cage work
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another needless test fit pic from the rear with a 4 inch gap in the rear fenders...but its off the jig completely and STIFF
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with the rockers replaced with square tube i tied the front frame rails, rear frame rails, cross members, front cage, and tube framed up to the rear shock towers..which let me remove all of my "extra" brace work except a precautionary center brace wich is temp welded to the center of the front cage and what i would call a "mini" rear cage(wich is nothing more than a tube tie-ing the rear towers together then down to the rocker tubes and down to the rear rail extensions
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back to the front cage..i "was" going to remove the sheet metal rail that runs from the bottom of the shock tower up to the windshield and replace it with some square tube..decided against it and braced it into the front cage
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heres a shot of the rear tower tie and brace
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if you want to go thru my 400+ pics of step by step with all of the rust repair, and custom body work, etc etc etc.....just bear in mind if your not on a quick connection it may take a while to load
the "guest" password is:
lloyd
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y31/sh ... ?start=all
Last edited by sh0rtlife on Thu Feb 07, 2008 12:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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sh0rtlife
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Post by sh0rtlife »

:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:
now if your still with me.....and not screaming at the monitor(if you are breath deeply and go have a stiff drink and come back when your wits are about you)

here is my current problem...the sheet metal floor cross member over the transaxle had to be removed to make space for the seats....its hard to see in the pic but lets put it this way(for those of you who have had the rear seat out of a milano) imagine placing the far back edge of your front seat 1 inch BEHIND the cross member that the milano rear seat pops into
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this leaves the transaxle cross member floating in mid air with ZERO to attach it to...the obvious isnt so obvious here....i braced the cross member so it wont move..and the drivers side is still basically untouched and cut out all of the passenger side as seen here
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the steel box to the left is what i intend to replace the old floor with as it will provide a MUCH stronger structure than the stock sheet metal ever did....the real question/problem is this "block" that the bolts on the transaxle go thru...do i need the blocks? can i do away with them?..ideally id like to remove the 1x1x3 blocks and run my new 1x3x.120 square tube and put the nuts on top of my "new" cross member and have the transaxle cross member bolt thru my new rails
now theres 2 blocks a "thick" long set and a smaller 1/4inch thick set below them..id keep the smaller ?shims? just so that the transaxle cross member isnt totally resting on the new rails

note the "stock" nuts then theres the 1x1x3 block then below it is 2 small thin shims
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the next question would be...the for lack of better words...pinion snubber on top of the transaxle..how necessary is it...ive got no argument to put one back in just need to know how important is its alignment and adjust ability are
Last edited by sh0rtlife on Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

S,What an awesome project !!!

Por favor?? Resize your pics,your killing my bandwidth here...! :wink: :D

Keep us posted,I can see this is going to look great when its done...!
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
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sh0rtlife
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Post by sh0rtlife »

i thought the site was "auto" re-sizeing

guess ill go resize the pic's i posted and edit it


ok all pic's sized down to 800x600...lemmy know if i need to go smaller...800x600 seems to be the norm for "most" sites
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Giuliettaevo2
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Post by Giuliettaevo2 »

the spacers are not needed if you keep the axle in the right position. they are only used on the v6 and Turbo models since they use bigger donuts in the rear, 4 cilinder versions do not have them. they're there to gain a bit of extra room. if you make sure you have enough room for the donut and axle you'll do fine without them.

Don't know what a pinion snubber is... but if you mean the small rubber on a stick coming down fron the tunnel onto your clutchcasing... I would say you have to keep that or build another device to keep the gearbox from moving to much in its mounts. it's there to stop your gearbox from jumping around in its tunnel.

Good luch with the project! Will follow it for sure. Currently i'm busy placing a 33 Sportwagon bodyshell over a Giulietta116 bottomhalf, will get a v6 also.
Drive it like you stole it...
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sh0rtlife
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Post by sh0rtlife »

i kinda figured the blocks could go...thanks alot for the confirmation

yes the "stick" with a rubber end....on a solid rear axle car be it mopar ford or chevy all have a 2 inch block of rubber on the end of the snout of the axle called a pinion snubber...basically does the same thing..."normally" its set several inches away from the body....in this case is it supposed to be firm on the case to keep the case planted in position or a little lose to give it some give?


btw anyone got some links to some good shots of interior cages...looking mostly for pic's of above the windshield to get a better idea of how i want to cage this beast




a few things i have slated for the project
power windows.....both front doors, rear door AND windshield...wind in the hair without the burnt head!
FULL LED useabge...only the headlights and fog lights will be normal bulbs
tilton reverse swing pedal assembly
"smooth" dash"...all buttons and switches will be on the console easily reached includeing heater controls
LOCKABLE push button ignition useing a gtv6 trunk lock(i love the flat key)
"backlit" white faced milano guages
hood to look "mostly" like a 49-51 merc
hideaway tag plates
NO MIRRORS...to be replaced with 3 VERY small camera's and 3inch lcd screens hidden behind tinted plexiglass (1 IR camera for some night vision)

escentialy im trying to put the best ideas and the most "fun" into the car as posible..build it track ready but for the street
ill have the car at PIR(portlant international raceway) in june for the micro car show/meet..hopefully giveing some rides....while it wont be "finished" i should be able to get some testing on it
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

Serious question here....

How does a 6`4" guy fit into a GTV6 ??
Seriously,Im 6`2" and have modified Reccaros so I can fit and be comfy.. :D
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
Greg Gordon
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Post by Greg Gordon »

I will be watching this one, it's an exciting project! I am also 6'2" and my son is 6'4", we both fit in the GTV6 but we recline the seat a little.

Towing an Alfa transaxle car with its rear wheels on the ground won't hurt anything.

Greg Gordon
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sh0rtlife
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Post by sh0rtlife »

realy?...i was always told towing a transaxle car with the rear on the ground is a very bad thing..with posible gear damage :roll: i always took it with a grain of salt

yeah i fit in the gtv6 with the seat ALL the way back and the seat fairly reclined..wich means holding the bottom of the steering wheel in classic italian manner ...doesnt help its a sunroof car too...thankfully no kids and no abilty to have kids so who needs a back seat LOL

ive obviously got an issue with seat space in the "lloyd platinum" ..i need to gain some clearance in the back corner of the seat next to the clutch bellhouse...anyone know of some seats that are narrow ar the bottom or narrow in the back that are still comfortable?...im looking at modifying a set of alfetta seats...since me and my wife LOVE the stock 83 gtv6 seats(read as leftover ballocco with the red pipeing)..very comfortable..admitedly not very supportive in the corners but ill be droping in 5 point belts anyway so it wont matter much.....it "looks" like i can actualy trim the skirting off the seat frames to make some space ..but if theres something else out there that wont kill my budget and has a taper to it im all ears.......especialy if its something stock in another car i might find at a wrecker

btw if anyone needs any milano parts or patch panels drop me a PM
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Post by MR2 Zig »

Most japanese seats are small.....course I'm 6'3". I can't find a Japanese car I'm comfortable in tho.

Scott
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sh0rtlife
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Post by sh0rtlife »

yeah most jap seats SUCK...

got a fresh one for you guys...

what should i do about bracing the rear sway bar mounts(milano chassis) ...im planing to re-skin about 95% of the floor and well after removing the sheet metal around the rear sway bar mount its just floating out there barely attached to the cross member above the rear of the transaxle

ill grab a few shots of what im looking at as well as the 1/2 finished passenger side "new" transaxle cross member mount
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Post by x-rad »

Hey Shortlife,

Hope you have a kegerator in that garage...that's quite a project you have going!! I enjoyed the prose and the pics!!

Cheers, xrad
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sh0rtlife
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Post by sh0rtlife »

x-rad wrote:Hey Shortlife,

Hope you have a kegerator in that garage...that's quite a project you have going!! I enjoyed the prose and the pics!!

Cheers, xrad
actually ive got a 1950s fridge in the carport...but im not a drinker.....and no friends local any more so the fridge is unplugged


here ya go guys
first off the "new" transaxle mount for the passenger side(need to hit the steel yard and pick up some more materials to do the other side as well as some kind of hoop to go over the snout of the trans to put the snubber back in place).....i cut the old nuts out of the floor pan, trimmed the old block spacer stuffed it inside of the 1x3x.120 box and welded it in place then cut square holes in the top of the tube, dropped the nuts into place and bolted it to the cross member then welded the nuts to the new cross member retaining the stock transaxle location with a hell of alot more support...then ran a support rail for the "3rd" bolt to the front frame rail..
i did a dirty twist flex test of jacking up the passenger corner and ive eliminated a huge amount of chassis flex...i can only imagine how much more ill remove when i get the other side done
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now onto my current problem/concern ...the sway bar mount and lack of support for it
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heres my "first" idea to fix it..simply box it and weld it to the existing floor ..there is a cross member under that sheet metal at the top.."should" support it well but im not convinced
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the "second" idea is to use some roll cage tube and tie it to the shock tower(ignore the bend in the tube...id run a straight piece at an angle) but i think this may be over kill....i have a bad habit of overkill tho
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hopefully you racers have some insight and ideas about the rear swaybar mount
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

Quite honestly ?? With such a short wheel base,remove the bar completely...
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
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sh0rtlife
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Post by sh0rtlife »

Barry wrote:Quite honestly ?? With such a short wheel base,remove the bar completely...
your kidding right?....the lloyd in its "stock" form actually came stock with a sway bar in the back

ive got no complaints about bracing the sway bar mounts
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