ALFAGTV6.COM

[KevinR]

Hi All
As the topic suggests I am slowly putting together as much info on the these cars here in this thread. I have already loaded quite a lot on FB but when ever I wanted it’s such a pain to search so for me it’s much easier to have it on the forum . Hopefully it will also help me when I forget my manual on carbs to double check a setting I can find it quickly on line here. The first download here is on carbs but not directly out the manual . It was used along with the manual to a friend of mine Hennie who owned Alfa Service Centre in Bedforview.
For the record there never was a manual for these cars or a specific handbook . The Alfa Sei manual was used for carbs and engine while the standard GTV6. 2.5 handbook was issued with your service manual .. well at least mine were .
Anyone is welcome to post on here but please keep it related to the GTV 3.0 or the carb engine from the this car whether it’s in a single seater or another Alfa only.
Some exciting news is Richard Melvin has had the wheels remade to original spec ie three piece split rim. So hope to get my sample wheel back soon. Richard has also made two sets in 16” with same diameter centres. I am using the 16” for the track car driving to the circuits as they are usually more than 100miles away on average and they will have Michelin Pilots sports on and the 15” will have semi slicks on use at the track .. starting to think its working out
I’m still waiting for bonnet grills to come back from the printers . The first batch were not satisfactory as the made bananas look straight ! So Michael hang in there please as we gotta get them right.
I am going to try load these files

[KevinR]

Michael if these prints are blurred I will delete and we try again .

[KevinR]

File 3

[KevinR]

File 4

[KevinR]

File 5 and final on this section .

[KevinR]

If anyone is on line let me know if it can be read as I can’t check at the moment on iPhone . Thanks

[Giuliettaevo2]

I can read them on my phone just fine.

[75evo]

Yeah FB is useless as a forum.

[Alfaaa1]

Hi Kevin , I can read them on line.

[KevinR]

Thanks guys. Slowly will put some info up on these cars on basic carb setting etc.

[KevinR]

Hi . Some good news is I have now completed my third set of carbs for the GTV 3.0 with help form my mate Jose (aka Powermods) who has been staying over here in the UK between work contracts and getting his covid jabs.
So the good news these carbs are really good and the car is a pleasure to drive . Throttle response, idling and CO levels are spot on .
As I am not a mechanic but been playing with these cars for ages I have put together what I have learned and welcome any advice from the real mechanics out there who can offer some short cuts or better ways to test. Having said this I have followed the manual as close as possible and referred to notes I have taken from Dawie , my late father and the late Memoli.
Without this input and with my lack of mechanical training I would have really struggled .
Basically I would like to divide the carb guide into three or four areas at this stage.
1) Pre strip down
2) Strip down
3) Rebuild and test
4) Assembly on car and set up

[KevinR]

PRE-STRIP DOWN . As this title suggests there are definitely some areas that should be checked and analysed before you pull the carbs apart . With any extra info of the problem areas it helps to give a closer look when doing that particular carb or if it’s an over all problem like a misfire on one carb at idle, hesitancy on acceleration, excessive fouling of a particular plug etc . For example the hesitancy could make you look more carefully at the pump jets or the progression holes in the throttle plate below the carbs .
I have found that most times a lot of issues have been electrical so check your leads are good or borrow a set to confirm you don’t have any issues there . I spent quite a fortune on an excellent set of leads to make sure their could be no issues here. This is what I finally used in pic below supplied by Magnecor- I have code if anyone wants . While on the electrical be prepared to buy three sets of plugs . I use NGK B6ES . Put in a new set and check which ones are fouling or which ones are running lean . This is further info to put in the corner of your mind . I found another electrical issue is my fuel pressure dropped when my car got hot. I ruled out pump as that was new so it was a case of checking all connections. Problem turned out far simpler and was the old issue of residue build up on the fuses . A thorough clean and I had proper contact with no voltage drops and perfect (constant ) fuel pressure. If I had never bought an in-line guage (temporary fixing) I would still be battling ! Oh and it also fixed my slow indicators !
I did a compression test and a leak down test . I also checked cam timing and valve clearances . This is all critical as to tight clear has a impact on vacuum which is directly impacted to functioning of that carb. . You might find after this that a head job would probably be in order . All this is important as when you have spent your 45hrs rebuilding the carbs and now your battling to balance your carbs you want to be confident nothing else is impacting your readings . Oh don’t forget to check your brake booster vacuum valve !
Finally before you pull the carbs out take note by looking down the barrels while the engine is idling to see if any pump jets are dripping and check and visually compare the intensity of the spray from the pump jets. (That’s the arm sticking out in the barrel of the carb). Note which carbs are spitting as well .
At some stage you will have to buy or borrow vacuum gauges . It’s worth checking now if you have a definitive bank or a carb that way out .
I will post what gauges I found totally necessary to do this job as im not one for sniffing toxic fuels to tell If rich or lean .
As soon as I get chance I will type up next section .

[KevinR]

I am slowly getting this info together. The process can be costly however if you look at the value of the car these days and how the carbs are the heart of ii, it then makes sense to get the necessary tools and gauges in order to get them spot on . Even well worn carbs can be resurrected with the availability of carb kits and patient process off assembling . Unfortunately if something does break in a carb like a float pedestal you might have to find spares .
Critical items to have are a low pressure fuel gauge (up to 1bar) , a set of balance gauges and a lambda gauge . If you’re needing a new fuel pressure regulators and correct fuel pump these are available.
Balance guages I bought from Demon Tweaks as they are Chinese low quality copies out there. The kit unfortunately does not come with the vacuum tube that’s specific for our carbs hence you will have to machine these or borrow from some one who has the mercury gauges. (Most of these gauges are broken and these vacuum tubes are available).
Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and low pressure gauge is sourced from Car Builder Solutions in the UK.
There are many lambda gauges available but I have used PLX over the years and been very reliable so stuck with them.
Most cases you won’t need this in SA as the fuels have not changed massively. The newer fuels contain higher levels of O2 hence we are running much leaner these days . You would need a CO meter to set up your levels for idling once you have rebuilt your carbs though. These are far cheaper than the PLX and the readings of gauges are good condition are fairly accurate.
Having the right gauges makes it no longer a guessing game unless you’re a seasoned pro who can sniff and hear out imbalances
The machined adaptor is the part in my hand.

[KevinR]

These are pics of the wide band PLX lambda set up I bought. I have put a bung in both down pipes for each bank to make sure one side is not leaner. You just gotta jack car up and swap around during testing.
It looks a bit messy but as its not a permant gauge its will just sit on passenger seat with its own fuse box to protect it. It was " maak a plan Saterdag"
If money was no object I would be down at the dyno /rolling road to use their gauges etc but at £500 a session, no thanks !,
Btw for those who don't know SA built cars they all come with sump guards. A well needed part in Africa

[KevinR]

More gauges. If your original pressure regulator is not working this one fits in same holes and is very good. It's always recommended by manufactures not to leave the fuel pressure gauge permantly connected.