ALFAGTV6.COM

David · Post by **David** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 1:32 am

A few more photos

Seb · Post by **Seb** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 2:09 am

Hey, thanks David!

Nice pics. What do you mean to look out for with the rear engine mount? I used "clutch cover" from the 2.5. What will happen? It doesn´t fit? Looks like it fits fine.

Also, what needs to be done with the AAV, and why? This is something I have completely missed.

Did you use Motronic in yours? Could use some pointers there...

Seb

David · Post by **David** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 2:56 am

Seb,

Have you bolted up the rear engine mount at the end of the bell housing? It will fit but just needs a bit of leverage to line up the holes.

The AAV is still needed with the MS, I'm not sure how the Motronic handles the cold start warmup where extra air is needed.

You'll love the power increase over the 2.5.

Here's some more photos.

David

David · Post by **David** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 3:08 am

SeB,
You may have noticed the different alternator, it's off a Merc, not sure what model, but as an 85amp upgrade it fitted easily, just a minor change to the bottom and top spacers.

Does you car have air conditioning? You will need to drill and tap the top AC compressor mount bolt hole.

David

Seb · Post by **Seb** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 5:21 am

David!

The rear engine mount fitted quite well on mine. Maybe I just got lucky?

I´m using the alternator belonging to the 3.0QV engine. It doesn´t really line up, so I´m putting a "dubble" wheel from a VW on it and will use the outer of them. (was that understandable?

)

I don´t have AC, no probs then?

If the Motronic needs the AAV, what will have to be done? Do you know?

If there are more things you can think of please tell me, I´m learning as i go here

What kind of headers do you use?

What I´m the most conserned about is the electrical hook ups, but I´ll just try my way through it.

Right now this is the status of the project:
* The engine is in place, but not hooked up yet.
* I´m having the 164 plenum modified and a 180 bend made. (done)
* I´ve just taken the rigth head of to change the oil pump gear sins it is faster spinning on the QV, and it´s not great since the dizzy is on the same gear since I moved it

/Seb

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 7:57 am

David,nice runners mate-what id?

A pic of the 4mm spacer to help out

Barry

81GTV6 · Post by **81GTV6** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 8:19 am

I am 99% sure the Motronic AAV is controled by the computer, so its not the same AAV.

My problem is im doing this on a semi-budget. I first wanted to be sure i could make the 164 engine fit, next step was to make it run perfectly, finallyimprove it steadily. I was going to go for GoTech, but that will be next winters project. For now its going to be running on a BMW 733 ECU, BWM AFM, and BWM injectors.

David,
Did you go back to using the hydrolic tensioner or did the engine come with it installed? Did you changed the crank pully and water pump pully to the GTV6 set up? How?

David · Post by **David** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 11:19 am

Seb,
The AAV holes only need drilling and tapping. The place to mount it is the same as the 2.5.

PACE extractors, off the 2.5

Barry, 41mm or there abouts. Seems to be ample for the stock 3.0L

I'll post some pics of the runner build process.

Jacob, I'm using the stock hydraulic tensioner. Installed an overhaul kit before replacing it. All the 2.5 stuff bolts straight on. Water pump, front pulley, alternator bracket, AC bracket, timing belt covers,etc. One bolt hole for the timing belt cover needs a slight mod as its an 8mm thread and a 6mm is needed. easy to fix. I also used the 2.5 flywheel with a spacer as Barry has shown.

David

junglejustice · Post by **junglejustice** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 9:12 pm

The stock runners are good enough - ported to 39mm - to step up the 2.5, but a 3.0 needs new, bigger, cast jobbies... (maybe even 44mm or so...)

Also, on the intake plenum, try welding in 50mm stubs up top rather than porting out the existing stubs. (see my pic below...)

David I LOVE that intake that you made. (On the MS, you got rid of the AFM or what did you do with it?)

I still need to find time to install the GoTech on my street Verde and an intake pipe setup like yours would be great! (With the GoTech you completely drop the AFM), so this setup will work and it looks professional - big as it'll go and gone with the restrictive accordion hoses and crap!

What "truck" parts are those sections from?

David · Post by **David** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 10:33 pm

The bigger runners on the plenum would have been better but I'm not sure there's much to gain on a stock 3.0L particularly with the new intake. That's my next project, and this plenum will then go on my 2.5 GTV6 with a new intake and Megasquirt.

Yes with Megasquirt the AFM is gone completely. 75mm straight through from the air filter to the throttle body. I just love the sound of the intake under full load. The pipe is coated with POR15, a good hard glossy finish, using a brush!

You will note the Air Temperature Sensor (from an old AFM) near the filter. The other 2 wires are from the O2 sensor I welded into back of one of the extractor banks. MS users both of these for input data.

The "truck parts" are: 75mm 45 degree exhaust pipe bend, 75mm 45 degree rubber air intake joiner, clamps to match. The brass pipe fittings are brazed into the pipe. I purchased the new K&N at a clearance sale and the whole lot excluding the runners, cost $130 AUD

I will post the runner construction under a new topic. I didn't mean to hijack Seb's thread but most of the issues are common to 3.0L conversions and it's always great to see & hear other ideas.

David

Seb · Post by **Seb** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 12:58 am

Hey guys!

Good to see my thread´s generating some discussion. One of the reasons I went with the 164 plenum is my engine is a QV (S). The runners are bigger stock on it, I think 45mm.

Anyways, last night I continued with the work changing the gear for the dizzy/oil pump. It all went smoothly for once.

I´d allready taken the head off and removed the gear in the QV. Now I had to do the same with the 2.5 donor engine and get the gear from it in the QV instead. Fits right over, no probs.

Seb · Post by **Seb** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:32 am

Well in place I had to check it really worked, and it did. Hopefully now I have timeing again

In the picture below the gear involved in this. To the left the gear I had to change, and to the right the one on the axle that spinns the dizzy.

Seb · Post by **Seb** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:40 am

next little project:
Get the cam wheel off so I can remove the 164 top engine mount. Doesn´t look too good sittign there.

Stuck like hell thoug, any tips on removing it? Guess I´ll just use one of those things used to pull stearing wheels of with. (don´t know the name in english).

´til next time dudes!

/Seb

David · Post by **David** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 1:49 am

Seb,

Use the puller and give it a slight tap. Watch it though they sometimes come off with pop.

One of the holes where the top FWD engine mount is fixed goes right through to the tappet area. You'll have to plug it with a hex screw or a short bolt and washer.

David

David · Post by **David** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 2:00 am

Seb,

A bit late now, but are you sure that timing gear needed changing?

What year and model did the 164 motor come out of.

David

Nice intake!