David
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Post by David »

A few more photos
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Bored out 2.5 plennum
Bored out 2.5 plennum
PL1.JPG (16.41 KiB) Viewed 12196 times
AAV holes need to be drilled and tapped
AAV holes need to be drilled and tapped
AAV.JPG (19.63 KiB) Viewed 12198 times
New air intake
New air intake
AI3.JPG (53.66 KiB) Viewed 12199 times
1985 GTV6 3.0 Zender Body Kit - Red
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Seb
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Post by Seb »

Hey, thanks David!

Nice pics. What do you mean to look out for with the rear engine mount? I used "clutch cover" from the 2.5. What will happen? It doesn´t fit? Looks like it fits fine.

Also, what needs to be done with the AAV, and why? This is something I have completely missed.

Did you use Motronic in yours? Could use some pointers there... :?

Seb
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Post by David »

Seb,

Have you bolted up the rear engine mount at the end of the bell housing? It will fit but just needs a bit of leverage to line up the holes.

The AAV is still needed with the MS, I'm not sure how the Motronic handles the cold start warmup where extra air is needed.

You'll love the power increase over the 2.5.

Here's some more photos.

David
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Ready to install.
Ready to install.
FIN1.JPG (59.15 KiB) Viewed 12186 times
The 3.0L rubber joiners will fit, just turn them around.
The 3.0L rubber joiners will fit, just turn them around.
I8.JPG (36.07 KiB) Viewed 12186 times
1985 GTV6 3.0 Zender Body Kit - Red
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Post by David »

SeB,
You may have noticed the different alternator, it's off a Merc, not sure what model, but as an 85amp upgrade it fitted easily, just a minor change to the bottom and top spacers.

Does you car have air conditioning? You will need to drill and tap the top AC compressor mount bolt hole.

David
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Merc 85 amp alternator.
Merc 85 amp alternator.
ALT1.JPG (25.28 KiB) Viewed 12182 times
The first startup. Just the paint burning off the extractors.
The first startup. Just the paint burning off the extractors.
MT1.JPG (11.52 KiB) Viewed 12183 times
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Seb
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Post by Seb »

David!

The rear engine mount fitted quite well on mine. Maybe I just got lucky?

I´m using the alternator belonging to the 3.0QV engine. It doesn´t really line up, so I´m putting a "dubble" wheel from a VW on it and will use the outer of them. (was that understandable? :? )

I don´t have AC, no probs then?

If the Motronic needs the AAV, what will have to be done? Do you know?

If there are more things you can think of please tell me, I´m learning as i go here :P

What kind of headers do you use?

What I´m the most conserned about is the electrical hook ups, but I´ll just try my way through it.

Right now this is the status of the project:
* The engine is in place, but not hooked up yet.
* I´m having the 164 plenum modified and a 180 bend made. (done)
* I´ve just taken the rigth head of to change the oil pump gear sins it is faster spinning on the QV, and it´s not great since the dizzy is on the same gear since I moved it :oops:


/Seb
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Just after it was dropped in...
Just after it was dropped in...
PICT0065.jpg (119.11 KiB) Viewed 12163 times
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

:D David,nice runners mate-what id?

A pic of the 4mm spacer to help out

Barry
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4mm spacer.JPG
4mm spacer.JPG (153.14 KiB) Viewed 12152 times
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
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Post by 81GTV6 »

I am 99% sure the Motronic AAV is controled by the computer, so its not the same AAV.

My problem is im doing this on a semi-budget. I first wanted to be sure i could make the 164 engine fit, next step was to make it run perfectly, finallyimprove it steadily. I was going to go for GoTech, but that will be next winters project. For now its going to be running on a BMW 733 ECU, BWM AFM, and BWM injectors.

David,
Did you go back to using the hydrolic tensioner or did the engine come with it installed? Did you changed the crank pully and water pump pully to the GTV6 set up? How?
Jacob Ricciotti

'81 GTV6 3.0
'81 GTV6 Track car
'91 164S daily driver
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Post by David »

Seb,
The AAV holes only need drilling and tapping. The place to mount it is the same as the 2.5.

PACE extractors, off the 2.5

Barry, 41mm or there abouts. Seems to be ample for the stock 3.0L

I'll post some pics of the runner build process.

Jacob, I'm using the stock hydraulic tensioner. Installed an overhaul kit before replacing it. All the 2.5 stuff bolts straight on. Water pump, front pulley, alternator bracket, AC bracket, timing belt covers,etc. One bolt hole for the timing belt cover needs a slight mod as its an 8mm thread and a 6mm is needed. easy to fix. I also used the 2.5 flywheel with a spacer as Barry has shown.

David
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Air intake under construction. An off the shelf 75mm exhaust bend from the local truck spares.
<br />The 75mm rubber joiner to the throttle body is a stock truck spare as well.
Air intake under construction. An off the shelf 75mm exhaust bend from the local truck spares.
The 75mm rubber joiner to the throttle body is a stock truck spare as well.
AI1.JPG (25.86 KiB) Viewed 12138 times
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Nice intake!

Post by junglejustice »

The stock runners are good enough - ported to 39mm - to step up the 2.5, but a 3.0 needs new, bigger, cast jobbies... (maybe even 44mm or so...)

Also, on the intake plenum, try welding in 50mm stubs up top rather than porting out the existing stubs. (see my pic below...)

David I LOVE that intake that you made. (On the MS, you got rid of the AFM or what did you do with it?)

I still need to find time to install the GoTech on my street Verde and an intake pipe setup like yours would be great! (With the GoTech you completely drop the AFM), so this setup will work and it looks professional - big as it'll go and gone with the restrictive accordion hoses and crap!

What "truck" parts are those sections from?
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IMG_0289.jpg
IMG_0289.jpg (93.59 KiB) Viewed 12118 times
...to Alfa, or not to Alfa? That is the question...
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Post by David »

The bigger runners on the plenum would have been better but I'm not sure there's much to gain on a stock 3.0L particularly with the new intake. That's my next project, and this plenum will then go on my 2.5 GTV6 with a new intake and Megasquirt.

Yes with Megasquirt the AFM is gone completely. 75mm straight through from the air filter to the throttle body. I just love the sound of the intake under full load. The pipe is coated with POR15, a good hard glossy finish, using a brush!

You will note the Air Temperature Sensor (from an old AFM) near the filter. The other 2 wires are from the O2 sensor I welded into back of one of the extractor banks. MS users both of these for input data.

The "truck parts" are: 75mm 45 degree exhaust pipe bend, 75mm 45 degree rubber air intake joiner, clamps to match. The brass pipe fittings are brazed into the pipe. I purchased the new K&N at a clearance sale and the whole lot excluding the runners, cost $130 AUD

I will post the runner construction under a new topic. I didn't mean to hijack Seb's thread but most of the issues are common to 3.0L conversions and it's always great to see & hear other ideas.

David
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Seb
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Post by Seb »

Hey guys!

Good to see my thread´s generating some discussion. One of the reasons I went with the 164 plenum is my engine is a QV (S). The runners are bigger stock on it, I think 45mm.

Anyways, last night I continued with the work changing the gear for the dizzy/oil pump. It all went smoothly for once. :P

I´d allready taken the head off and removed the gear in the QV. Now I had to do the same with the 2.5 donor engine and get the gear from it in the QV instead. Fits right over, no probs.
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Here´s the 2.5 top up-side-down with the gear showing
Here´s the 2.5 top up-side-down with the gear showing
MVC-001F.JPG (50.07 KiB) Viewed 12097 times
It´s now hard to do, a bit tight maybe...
It´s now hard to do, a bit tight maybe...
MVC-005F.JPG (42.98 KiB) Viewed 12097 times
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Post by Seb »

Well in place I had to check it really worked, and it did. Hopefully now I have timeing again :wink:

In the picture below the gear involved in this. To the left the gear I had to change, and to the right the one on the axle that spinns the dizzy.
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dizzy in place and it seems to work...
dizzy in place and it seems to work...
MVC-010F.JPG (53.11 KiB) Viewed 12085 times
Gear showing through the hole where the dizzy goes
Gear showing through the hole where the dizzy goes
MVC-009F.JPG (59.29 KiB) Viewed 12085 times
The gears involved
The gears involved
MVC-008F.JPG (45 KiB) Viewed 12084 times
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Post by Seb »

next little project:
Get the cam wheel off so I can remove the 164 top engine mount. Doesn´t look too good sittign there.

Stuck like hell thoug, any tips on removing it? Guess I´ll just use one of those things used to pull stearing wheels of with. (don´t know the name in english).

´til next time dudes!

/Seb
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Engine mount behind cam wheel
Engine mount behind cam wheel
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Post by David »

Seb,

Use the puller and give it a slight tap. Watch it though they sometimes come off with pop.

One of the holes where the top FWD engine mount is fixed goes right through to the tappet area. You'll have to plug it with a hex screw or a short bolt and washer.

David
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I used hex plugs in all the holes where studs were removed.
I used hex plugs in all the holes where studs were removed.
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Post by David »

Seb,

A bit late now, but are you sure that timing gear needed changing?

What year and model did the 164 motor come out of.

David
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