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5yearplan · Post by **5yearplan** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 9:45 am

Could it be a corrosion issue, or a wire running to ground?

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 12:55 pm

5year: that would probably be less likely because it occurs at the same point in the rpms with all different components

slyalfa · Post by **slyalfa** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 12:59 pm

did you try a differnt temp sender? it shoud be the white one.
if that goes bad the mix will go way off. I had the wire fall off once and the motor would not even run.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 1:51 pm

Yeah, i just thought of that this morning when I overheated due to a stuck thermostat...will check tomorrow

and it makes sense too because the problem occurs when hot...

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 3:09 pm

checked fuel injection water temp sender....1.89k cold.... 0.320k hot, in range I think.

thermo-time/cold start injector circuit working fine

Fedezyl: I have not changed the 'ignition little black box' because my replacement has not arrived yet.....

fedezyl · Post by **fedezyl** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 8:15 pm

x-rad wrote:checked fuel injection water temp sender....1.89k cold.... 0.320k hot, in range I think.

thermo-time/cold start injector circuit working fine

Fedezyl: I have not changed the 'ignition little black box' because my replacement has not arrived yet.....

I'm thinking that it's the ignition box, a friend of mine that has a 79 320 bmw had a similar problem, the car wouldn't start when warm, it turned out it was the ignition box that when it warmed up it misfired.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 11:39 am

I changed the ignition box (little black box under dash) and the ignition temp sender in thermostat housing...no change in problem

a hard right turn makes it worse

but it runs great for a few minutes raght after starting...

the only thing left is a short somewhere which gets worse after a few minutes?????

I will double check the bosch air bypass valve, too

fedezyl · Post by **fedezyl** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 11:56 am

any loose cables??? shorting somewhere? subject to engine vibration?

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 2:43 pm

I checked over every visible wire in engine compartment and all wire covers for wear points...here is the latest:

with engine running, i pulled each spark cable one at a time and reved the engine until power problem occurs. All six pulled and problem still happens...so must be affecting all?.

engine starts and idles like a champ, has tons of power when first starting out until it warms up and then the intermittent power loss

again I noticed it occurred worse while starting out from standstill and turning hard (left or right). Also turning sputter happened at low rpms...

hooked up stoich meter: O2 sensor works fine and it's dead on middle green even through the high rpm sputters

I was thinking valve float but turning and low rpms should not affect the valves.

all grounds cleaned REALLY WELL this time. all ground accounted for..

I hooked up a timing light to all six leads and the coil wire but I did not see any gaps in the flashing...unlikely too as revs were about 4500 when it sputters

It has to be an electrical fault like some of you stated earlier but WHERE?? It is almost like the engine turns entirely on and of real fast only when hot and usually around 4000rpms

Maybe it's a Positive short like the battery or starter cable is shorting somewhere (but I just replaced the whole thing??!!)

I do have a pretty bad passenger side low header exhaust leak and maybe the heat got to something??

I am just a little frustrated but not done in yet

Photo below:
red arrow: starter solenoid hook up is a weak ground..shoud this be?
White arrow: new battery cable

fedezyl · Post by **fedezyl** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 2:57 pm

bad fuel pump?

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 2:59 pm

Do you perhaps have a spare distributor to switch to? checked inside the distributor for scuffed wires to the hall sensor?

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:20 pm

Fuel pump
fuel
ignition control
igniton amplifier
coil
entire distributer and cap and rotor and checked vac advance control
ECU
air mass flapper sensor
all six injectors
spark plugs
spark plug leads
coil lead
cleaned grounds
throttle position switch
cold air valve
atmospheric sensor
thermostat
ignition thermal sensor
checked all visible wires
checked ALL hoses, intake hose, and six intake runner hoses

got to be a short somewhere.......I will start looking near starter and bat cable next.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:53 pm

ok, now change the harness....

ALFA GTV6 GP · Post by **ALFA GTV6 GP** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:14 pm

Bad fuel pump ..... just because you changed the part does not mean the problem is fixed you may have changed one part with a faulty part......

Post by **Zamani** » Wed Aug 01, 2007 4:48 pm

Fuel pump? But the mixture is good, why would the fuel pump be bad? Sounds like it is spark related.

Is your car's system voltage > 14V ?

Things I have Changed: