ALFAGTV6.COM

Spoke to Barry and he pretty much confirms what Mats and Greg are saying.Get in ,crank it ,get the oil pressure up for a few seconds and just drive it easily till everytning is up to normal temp.

Evert running a 10W60 with a slightly uprated oil pump would definatly make me drive it with due care until the oil was properly warmed up.If you read my earlier post I was running Shell 20W60 as per Dawie's instruction when the garage damaged my previous motor!

Lucas nice to read about someone driving their GTV the way it was intended to be driven.

I do know one thing,when I finaly get to send my car in for a full respray I will be taking out the Gotech box.If they need to move it they can push it.

Apart from oil circulation issues with a cold engine, some of you may be running fixed cam belt tensioners (like me). Don't forget that these tensioners do not adjust in the same way as your original tensioner.

On a cold engine, the cam belt tension is actually low. The aim being to get correct belt tension when the block warms up and expands the whole set up adjusting the tension along the way.

If you give your cold engine some hard revs, you stand a chance of belt skipping cam sprockets and you know what follows..bent valves etc.

So there is another reason to warm up first before blast off..

im glad you brought that up ..cause it reminds me i need to see what type of adjuster is on my gtv6...hell i put the new belt on it befor i even owned the car and i set the tension

if there any quick way to tell what type it is?

The newer tensioner is a cheezy pot metal and plastic affair. The Hyd one is a too stout looking cast iron thing with a large bearing for a belt roller. The hyd tensioner bearing may be hard to comeby, but i THINK (don't know for sure) its the same as the 24v idler bearing for the cambelt that is in the "v" between the cyl heads.

hth,
scott

Evert wrote:Now Its in the Netherlands polular to use fully synthetic racing oil in stead of the "normal" fully sythetic oil.

For example:
- Racing Gastrol 10W60 in stead of
- Normal Mobil1 0W40

If I read the numbers correctly it means that the Gastrol is in warm condition 50% thicker than the Mobil and in cold condition even 60 % thicker.

When combined with the old trick of the washer utnder the spring of the oilpump the pressure build will be even higher. This might be the killer combination with cold starts and high revs.

Unless you are really driving it hard there is no use for a thicker racing oil in the car, in fact it will wear faster and break down because of the higher shear forces in the higher viscousity oil. Much more expensive that is.

Start up, first gear, rev to 6000rpm, drop clutch, wheel spin, second gear with crunch!, slide side ways, 70mph before I hit the top of the road....

Bruce wrote:Start up, first gear, rev to 6000rpm, drop clutch, wheel spin, second gear with crunch!, slide side ways, 70mph before I hit the top of the road....

sounds about right...but i wait 1 sec on the shift into second so it dont crunch..still chirps em.....if ya dont drive it like ya stole it your not fully enjoying an alfa

Just use a plug-in block warmer year 'round. Then you can have instant gratification. May as well put one on the transaxle too while you are at it...

Mats wrote:

Evert wrote:Now Its in the Netherlands polular to use fully synthetic racing oil in stead of the "normal" fully sythetic oil.

For example:
- Racing Gastrol 10W60 in stead of
- Normal Mobil1 0W40

If I read the numbers correctly it means that the Gastrol is in warm condition 50% thicker than the Mobil and in cold condition even 60 % thicker.

When combined with the old trick of the washer under the spring of the oilpump the pressure build will be even higher. This might be the killer combination with cold starts and high revs.

Unless you are really driving it hard there is no use for a thicker racing oil in the car, in fact it will wear faster and break down because of the higher shear forces in the higher viscousity oil. Much more expensive that is.

This ia a very logical argument I totally overlooked.
What do you recomment for the 3.0 V6 12V?
I used to fill the engine up with a fully synthetic 0W40 or semi-sythetic 10W40.
My change from the Mobil1 0W40 oil was made due to TWO engine damage on 2.0 16V TS engines. Both with severe damage on the crackshaft bearings.
Could also be a result of aluminum chips from the oilplug.