ALFAGTV6.COM

Here's what I'm talking about with adapting the 24v flywheel to gtv6 tailshaft.

matfo wrote:

Daniel wrote:I measured my 24v flywheel bolts - they are too short for what I want but they are definitely M12x1.25, not M12x1.5 (I measured the 2.5 12v engine that I have pulled out)

Strange, I'm pretty sure my 24V bolts are M12x1.0 (see my previous posted pic).
However I will double check that at the garage tomorrow.

Sorry for the confusion, my mistake.
When I checked again and measured better i saw that it's M12x1.25 on my 24V also.

(I changed my earlier posted pic also)

What kind of prices are you guys paying for 24V valve guides? Barry? JimK? Anyone? Seems like they are very expensive.

omg! Crossposting!? And by you Z, have you been too much on the Spider forum lately??

does anyone know if this cam locking kit works on the 3l 24v as well?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... :IT&ih=006

v

BTW, what kind of front covers are you using? One person told me, I need an early model 164 front cover. I saw Matfo's conversion and it looks like he is using stock 164 front cover.

Oil pump wise, do you just change the pickup?

BTW, what the mileage of your 24V engines? Mine has about 100K so I think it is wise to go over the parts like bearings, all seals, and re-worked the heads. Don't want it to put out less than my 12V and have bad oil pressure after installation. I may even re-hone the liners, put in total seal rings too.

Camshaft wise, do you guys have any suggestion for profile?

Any reason why the 24V ps pump (engine from 164) staying where it is and the alternator on the lower side of cyl 4,5,6 wouldn't work? Looks like the PS pump is perfect where it is. No need A/C.

Comments?

Barry!!!

Zamani wrote:BTW, what kind of front covers are you using? One person told me, I need an early model 164 front cover. I saw Matfo's conversion and it looks like he is using stock 164 front cover.

Thats correct, however it's a bit tricky with a couple of the holes.

Zamani wrote: Oil pump wise, do you just change the pickup?

No, I used the housing from the 12V (from 75 3.0) and the internal parts from 24V.
I also had to press the axis about 5.5 mm into the rotor to adjust the lenght. Notice the original position of the splines on the picture with the shafts side by side.

Zamani wrote: BTW, what the mileage of your 24V engines? Mine has about 100K so I think it is wise to go over the parts like bearings, all seals, and re-worked the heads. Don't want it to put out less than my 12V and have bad oil pressure after installation. I may even re-hone the liners, put in total seal rings too.

Camshaft wise, do you guys have any suggestion for profile?

Mine has run about 140000 km but I had'nt any time to open it
Thats also a reason for keeping the front cover.

However it got new oil and some love on the way into the engine bay and now I'm hoping it will last for a while anyway

Here are the 24v shaft after pressing a little on the axis to get the correct length

The finished result, 12v housing and 24v internals

Has anyone else pushed this oil pump axis out from the shaft before? Im having some issues trying to do that. Methods on how would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Does all the 24V cams fit all the 24V engines? It seems to be common practice to use GTA intake cams on 164 based 3.0 24V engines, so those should fit at least.

i think barry can not answer, his computer probably got stolen

Zamani wrote:Barry!!!

ZZZZZZ !!

Sorry,I dont look at the site that often anymore !

Uhm,getting the SOFT,VERY SOFT gerotor off the shaft is a delicate operation.
Its incredibly soft material and even light force will distort it..
Id rather not do it unless neccesitated to do so.

All 24v cams will fit the 24v heads..! Dont be fooled into thinking GTA intakes are going to give more ..You probably
going to loose more without ECU changes .