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- Silver
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 6:58 am
Strange that you say a hard right turn makes the problem worse.... so it could be a combination mechanical/electrical problem. As you've thoroughly checked the engine compartment, how about the battery feed. I remember someone posting a note on this board some time ago about changing his exhaust system and finding that the main feed cable from the battery at the back was frayed almost to nothing as it passed over his exhaust pipe. I've been a bit too afraid to look at mine. That might also explain why your problem gets worse when the engine is hot. Worth looking at?
It may have been mine...I wrote a post on battery cable replacement a few years ago....
will check cables again tomorrow.
Mats: Still don't feel like replacing the harness quite yet, although I do have a spare milano harness and all the accessories...
I tested the fuel pump pressures of the old and new pumps and both were correct...and then I put the brand new pump into the car.
Zman: system voltage hovers around 12v..usually just a hair under 12.
will check cables again tomorrow.
Mats: Still don't feel like replacing the harness quite yet, although I do have a spare milano harness and all the accessories...
I tested the fuel pump pressures of the old and new pumps and both were correct...and then I put the brand new pump into the car.
Zman: system voltage hovers around 12v..usually just a hair under 12.
voltage should be between 13 and 14v, a hair under 12v means the battery is being discharged...x-rad wrote:It may have been mine...I wrote a post on battery cable replacement a few years ago....
will check cables again tomorrow.
Mats: Still don't feel like replacing the harness quite yet, although I do have a spare milano harness and all the accessories...
I tested the fuel pump pressures of the old and new pumps and both were correct...and then I put the brand new pump into the car.
Zman: system voltage hovers around 12v..usually just a hair under 12.
CRANE XR3000-292 install
New plugs with correct gap and alternator is working fine..
Installed new CRANE xr3000-292:
Install took 3 hours and was fairly straightforward...
set engine to tdc #1
remove dizzy
remove dizzy guts and save all parts (have to cut 3 hall sensor wires unfortunately..but cut them in the middle so you can use them again)
Install led sensor brackest (need the right length screw. the one they supplied did not work)
install plastic disc chopper wheel (kinda flimsy but should hold up to 3000rpm at least)
set chopper gap (easy)..and install dizzy back into engine ..BE VERY CAREUL about rotor/dizzy/chopper wheel phasing ...dizzy gear has a way of pulling out and rotating)
NOW, the electrical:
cut three white wires at old coil (one to tach, one to ECU, and third to ign comp.)
cut two black/green wires (12 ignition on and 12 v out to ign circuit)
twist three white wires together and add 8 ft white wire to cross engine bay
twist two black/green wires together and add 8 feet red wire to cross engine bay
Mount old coil near dual relay, connect yellow wire from CRANE and white wire form across engine bay to coil (-)
connect red wire from CRANE and red wire from across engine bay to coil (+)
ground crane unit and connect three wires from dissy optical unit to CRANE
NOTE: bosch Hall unit uses NON ballasted coil which works perfectly with the CRANE xr3000. Also, no need to change spark plug wires either!! Also, Big ECU senses coil (-) so no need for adapter!!
NOW THE WORST PART:
engine started right up and only needed minimal dizzy adjustment
BUT I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM. since the entire Bosch ignition system has been replaced, problem must be with injector power, possible short in steering column as sometimes worse when turning..thanks everyone for all the suggestions!
Installed new CRANE xr3000-292:
Install took 3 hours and was fairly straightforward...
set engine to tdc #1
remove dizzy
remove dizzy guts and save all parts (have to cut 3 hall sensor wires unfortunately..but cut them in the middle so you can use them again)
Install led sensor brackest (need the right length screw. the one they supplied did not work)
install plastic disc chopper wheel (kinda flimsy but should hold up to 3000rpm at least)
set chopper gap (easy)..and install dizzy back into engine ..BE VERY CAREUL about rotor/dizzy/chopper wheel phasing ...dizzy gear has a way of pulling out and rotating)
NOW, the electrical:
cut three white wires at old coil (one to tach, one to ECU, and third to ign comp.)
cut two black/green wires (12 ignition on and 12 v out to ign circuit)
twist three white wires together and add 8 ft white wire to cross engine bay
twist two black/green wires together and add 8 feet red wire to cross engine bay
Mount old coil near dual relay, connect yellow wire from CRANE and white wire form across engine bay to coil (-)
connect red wire from CRANE and red wire from across engine bay to coil (+)
ground crane unit and connect three wires from dissy optical unit to CRANE
NOTE: bosch Hall unit uses NON ballasted coil which works perfectly with the CRANE xr3000. Also, no need to change spark plug wires either!! Also, Big ECU senses coil (-) so no need for adapter!!
NOW THE WORST PART:
engine started right up and only needed minimal dizzy adjustment
BUT I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM. since the entire Bosch ignition system has been replaced, problem must be with injector power, possible short in steering column as sometimes worse when turning..thanks everyone for all the suggestions!
- Attachments
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- whatch out for rotor/dizzy/chopper wheel phasing!!
- IMG_2253.JPG (140.57 KiB) Viewed 7260 times
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- rough install location
- system.JPG (145.95 KiB) Viewed 7260 times
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- have to grind edge of rotor to get it to fit with new optical sensor
- IMG_2258.JPG (176.4 KiB) Viewed 7260 times
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- hardware install in dizzy...new optical sensor and adjusting bracket
- IMG_2256.JPG (146.11 KiB) Viewed 7261 times
Last edited by x-rad on Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
This is occuring at a certain rpm and the load doesn't matter?
I'd rev it in neutral standing still to the problem rpm and just hold down the wiring in different places and see if there is a change.
I'd rev it in neutral standing still to the problem rpm and just hold down the wiring in different places and see if there is a change.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
Mats: I had the same thought...it does occur load or no load and wiggling wires does not make a difference...i thought maybe the throttle linkage was hitting something, but no...
Also Mats: it does not AT ALL happen when engine is cold...ONLY after a few miles when warmed or warming up... ECU sensor??? but all replaced..and problem is intermittent but getting worse...
Anyway..look what i found in my spare electrical box...Haltech e6s
I think I can get this to trigger from the coil or optical sensor in the dizzy. Since I will use the Crane for timing, I can use the Haltech in Multipoint setup so no need for Home trigger.
Haltech to run fuel map based on rpm , TPS, and manifold baro and temp sensor (and I can get rid of air flapper!)
Crane to do ignition...
I will just use a common trigger! and it's free (hope it still works)
what do you guys think...crazy..stupid...why not just get GoTech...!?
Free is the reason..oh yeah..and the challenge!
Also Mats: it does not AT ALL happen when engine is cold...ONLY after a few miles when warmed or warming up... ECU sensor??? but all replaced..and problem is intermittent but getting worse...
Anyway..look what i found in my spare electrical box...Haltech e6s
I think I can get this to trigger from the coil or optical sensor in the dizzy. Since I will use the Crane for timing, I can use the Haltech in Multipoint setup so no need for Home trigger.
Haltech to run fuel map based on rpm , TPS, and manifold baro and temp sensor (and I can get rid of air flapper!)
Crane to do ignition...
I will just use a common trigger! and it's free (hope it still works)
what do you guys think...crazy..stupid...why not just get GoTech...!?
Free is the reason..oh yeah..and the challenge!
- Attachments
-
- haltech.JPG (156.63 KiB) Viewed 7233 times
hey x-rad, any chance of making a little video or sound file so we can listen how the misfire is??
how about this, rev the engine until it misses then as soon asi it misfires shut down the engine at that moment, and take out the plugs, take pics, post them here so we can get a clearer picture of what's going on
how about this, rev the engine until it misses then as soon asi it misfires shut down the engine at that moment, and take out the plugs, take pics, post them here so we can get a clearer picture of what's going on
Fedezyl: I will record it tomorrow and put it up on youtube
You guys have been really helpful, but I'm tired of dealing with it...
Unfortunately, the good old E6S is not compatable with winXP and I don't want to buy another old computer...SOooo, I will probably order the Haltech f10x stand alone fuel only management blah blah blah computer.
This is a real nice system and the GUI is much easier to use (you can download it from Haltech and try it out) Also they have MUCH improved the 100 page manual with better (read: they looked at the wires and the program when they wrote the new user guide) instructions AND pics....
http://www.haltech.com.au/f10x.htm
about 700$ with leads..
Once I get it up and running I will have many Bosch 3.0L and 2.5 electronics at the garage sale!
This combined with the Crane ignition module should give me some more power as I can eliminate the flapper box...
You guys have been really helpful, but I'm tired of dealing with it...
Unfortunately, the good old E6S is not compatable with winXP and I don't want to buy another old computer...SOooo, I will probably order the Haltech f10x stand alone fuel only management blah blah blah computer.
This is a real nice system and the GUI is much easier to use (you can download it from Haltech and try it out) Also they have MUCH improved the 100 page manual with better (read: they looked at the wires and the program when they wrote the new user guide) instructions AND pics....
http://www.haltech.com.au/f10x.htm
about 700$ with leads..
Once I get it up and running I will have many Bosch 3.0L and 2.5 electronics at the garage sale!
This combined with the Crane ignition module should give me some more power as I can eliminate the flapper box...