ALFAGTV6.COM

Ok, I know, it doesn't exist, BUT, here is my situation:

I've had a minute head gasket leak for 1+ year. Zero oil in coolant, zero coolant in oil, but at high RPM the engine pressurizes the coolant system and forces the coolant out through the overflow bottle cap as the pressure exceeds the 0.8 bar (or thereabouts) of the Milano overflow bottle cap. At regular street driving everything is fine, but on the track with constant 5000+ RPM it will loose about 2 qrts (liters) in a 25-30 minute session. As late as January I could run a full weekend (6-7 such sessions) without topping off coolant, but this past weekend I had to add 2 qrts after every session just to get it to the min level, and the low coolant light would come on after 1/2 the session.

Obviously, I need to change the head gasket, but there is no way I have time for that before the next event in 2 weeks, and I'm concerned it won't make it through the event (and very importantly bring me home afterwards). So, does any of you guys know of a coolant "additive" that may improve the head gasket leak WITHOUT junking up my new radiator etc? I just need to buy a little bit of time - enough to take me through the next event safely.

Oh, this is a stock 3 liter 12 valve V6 with 125k miles.

Any help appreciated!
Jes

Jes,Cannot think of an additive that will help.If it was pushing water into the chamber when you switch off,yes..
Best bet here is to take of covers and torque up to 100nm..Dont worry,studs wont stretch or break,make sure they are lubed tho...good luck..

Barry wrote:Best bet here is to take of covers and torque up to 100nm..Dont worry,studs wont stretch or break,make sure they are lubed tho...good luck..

The studs pulled through on a motor of mine at 95nm, be careful.

And what you doing at 95nm Bernard???????????

Yes,On second thoughts,on older motors where corosion has set in it might be dicey...but then such a block is not worth much...thanks B.


edit..been thinking bout this...I pull many motors to 100nm when the steel rings dont quite seal..12 and 24v...Id take the risk.If it pulls studs,it was going to fail anyway....

Baz,

Don't you worry about head or barrel distortion at > 90 Nm?

I can see that this might work on a newer gasket, but even if this is the original, or at least 50k miles, gasket you reckon it is worth a shot? I need to get this to last the event, one way or the other. So, if you say go, I'm ready to give it a shot.

Zamani will you be at WSR? I'm in, with a leaking head gasket, 5000 miles and 4 event street tires, ...
Jes

You could try and loosen the cap so no pressure will build up. I have been doing that with my 164 until I got a chance to fix it (bad heater core, several bad hoses) and I could not believe the condition of some of the hoses(several small pinholes). If I left the cap loose, I would have to fill the bottle a few times a week, with a loose cap and no pressure, no real coolant loss in a month. Nothing will stop the gasses from leaking out of the combustion chamber, but this should help. Just realize you are living on borrowed time and thrashing it cuts a lot of that borrowed time out!

Huh Running the cooling system open seems like a recipe for overheating - putting it on the track like that doesn't sound like a good idea.
Jes

Ar4me,

Try alumaseal. But I highly recommend you do the following. Bypass the radiator (use spare hoses or whatever) and heater core to avoid it from clogging them. Warm up the engine and then just pour in Alumaseal. The alumaseal fixed my liner seal (the rubber seal at the bottom of the liner) problem.

I'll try to go, but I don't have any good tires.

I can't figure out how a sealant in the cooling system, which is under much less pressure than the combust chamber, could work if you are getting the combust chamber hot gas into the cooling system. I also have the high pressure in coolant problem after running a few minutes at idle. But, I also have coolant in oil.

I have isolated the leak to the #5 cylinder. Steam/antifreeze comes out the exhaust and there is green moisture on the bottom of the oil fill cap. Decreased steam when #5 plug pulled out.

MAybe a cracked head, warped head, leaky head gasket, sunken liner, or cracked liner??

Any ideas..

I can't figure out how a sealant in the cooling system, which is under much less pressure than the combust chamber, could work if you are getting the combust chamber hot gas into the cooling system.

That is also why I doubt it will work and why I'm reluctant to use it. Though, if you look at something like "steel seal" they actually have a procedure for my exact problem, and it does make some sense. But still... For your "problem" what they call "block sealer" "should" work (if you are a believer...). Radiator sealer like alumaseal will not work for either of our problems, I believe. Not that I believe in any of it for any of the applications, though the products may work for some problems...
Jes

Jes,Its a 2,5 hour job to change headgaskets....Go for it...and its done

Wow, Baz is right.

Jes,Its a 2,5 hour job to change headgaskets....Go for it...and its done

I would seriously consider it (though not in 2.5 hours...), IF it wasn't because I have further plans re the engine after this event
Too bad you are not in my neighborhood and I would be inviting for dinner - the appetizer would be served in the garage during a light "work-out"

Oh, and I assume the 2.5h includes moving the ABS MC of the verde (as the left head won't clear it ).

Jes

there is a miracle cure for this. its something like zinc oxide or similar. Its not a product. its a chemical compound. If seen it seal a cracked water jacket right before my eyes. Old timer mechanics (50s) would know about it. a google search might also do it. I just remember zinc powder of some sort being dumped into the cooling system and immediantly needed to be run. We watched at the water leaking from the crack slowed then stopped. My buddy kept that car for 6 more months before giving it away and it was still sealed. Dont know what it does to the inside of the cooling system thought.
-TomP.