ALFAGTV6.COM

Hi,

I want to upgrade to a 3.0L in my 83 GTV6.
I would think that the easiest way would be to source a 3.0L from a late
model 75/Milano as I assume it would be an easy swap.
The other option is a 24v 3.0L from a late model 166.
Has anyone tried to fit a 166 motor in a 116 GTV6?
Finding a 24V 164 motor is another option but at the moment there seems to be more 166 wrecks available.

Cheers

I believe a drawback of the 166 24 valve vs the 164 24 valve is that the thermostat (and thus coolant hoses) would exit towards the firewall in the 116 GTV6 - at least that is the case with the 156 24 valve. You could convert the engine to have the thermostat on the front, I believe, but it could be costly. On the other hand, supposedly, the oil pump is updated in the later 24 valve engines.

Jes

Barry,

That oil pump issue sounds bad. Can you elaborate one possible causes? My mom has a 156 GTA and I'd hate to have her car breakdown because of this. Any preventive steps which can be taken?

You are in Australia, so go the 166 24V route. I went with the 164 and regret it, timing belt parts are much harder to find, 166 parts are easy to find.

Hey Bernie that's no recommendation cause most of the routes you take are sideways .

Hello Bernie and MD,

I would prefer the 166 24V but was concerned with the usual,

Pluming, engine mounts, flyweel adaption to donuts, bell housing adaptation and ecu fit.

Is the 3.0 24V out of the 166 the same engine as the 3.0 24v out of the 164 Super?

I am chasing a 75 3.0 wreck and a 166 3.0 wreck at the moment and depending on how hard the 166 is to fit I might sway the 166 route.

Ta

George,

I cannot honestly give you the details defferences because after I made my 164 conversion, I stopped making the study. However, as a general rule Alfa doesn't make one model super radically different from another one as is say a water cooled vs air cooled engine(save for the layout of the Sud) so in the end there is always a way to make one thing work with another. It all depends where you heart lies and how much trouble you want to go to to get there. A perfect example of what can be achieved is the Alfa Romeo motor cycles made from all car parts. How much engineering to think was involved on doing that-huge but in the end the guys followed the dream and impressed the shit out of everyone.

So if you want a 166, well go for it and you will work it out as you go but you must be committed.

George,
The one thing that I know will be different between the 164 and 166 will be the computer. If you are thinking of sticking with the stock computer (you have to if you want to be legal in QLD) you may have to look at what other systems on the 166 that it runs and figure out how to bypass/run these. 166 is drive by wire - no throttle cable, so there's the first one to solve. The other thing that I found when I was looking for a 24v was that I was able to buy a 164 24v for a third of the price of a 166 one. Don't let me put you off, definitely go for the 24v. I look forward to the progress reports.

D

Thanks Aussie 3.0 V6ers,

Just as a matter of interest how much did you guys pay for your motors and what was included?

Cheers

MD wrote:Hey Bernie that's no recommendation cause most of the routes you take are sideways .

Hahaha in this weater its not hard to do that I'm sure the GTV6 has had a bit of tail action as of late

brook166 wrote:Is the 3.0 24V out of the 166 the same engine as the 3.0 24v out of the 164 Super?

AFAIK they are identical except for the timing belt. So what worked for us other 164 24v'ers should work the same with the 166 24v.

Hi All,

Finally I've got my 3.0L.
Not a 24V unfortunatley but I don't think I have the time required to do a 24V conversions.

I came across a GTV6 fitted with a 3.0 164 12V motor. The car is in average condition but the motor seems fine so I'll transplant it into my good 116.

My question is,

The inlet runners are stock 2.5L at about 35mm diameter. The port on the head is also about 35mm. Is there need to increase the diameter of the inlet runners if the stock 3.0L inlet port is 35mm?

Possibly the 164 intake manifold is larger than 35mm but it has been removed on my engine and the remaining inlet is only 35mm.

Thanks

easiest thing to do is to remove the runners and use a dremel tool to machine them out to about 39mm. this is the most i would go for the sake of keeping enough meat and strength in the things. having said that 39mm is big enough for most applications bar some sort of high flowing race engine. any bigger then that aint really gona make a huge difference on a standard sort of engine and is gona involve ditching them and making new ones which you dont wana have the headache of doing. youll also need to match the ports on the head to 39mm for best results but this is not a big deal and involves turning the engine till the valve closes in the intake port and then machining away. also goes without saying youll have to match the rubbers too. not a real easy job as constant vibrations and the need to do a nice job get frustrating when doing this sort of job.

lol having said the above id be willing to do the job for you, runners, rubbers connecting runners to plenum, and could also do the little outlets on the bottom of the plenum to match also. is a bit of a crappy job so obviously im not gona do it for free, but as i am in melbourne would be easy to send them up to you. alternatively give it a go yourself and enjoy!!!!

p.s runners/plenum are the same on both 2.5 and 3.0 engines.