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I are just about ready to install my new cylinder sleeves into my Nord block.
The factory correct method is to install the sleeves with a new "o" rings that is lubricated with a smear of silicon grease.
Some people like to smear silicon sealant thinking that it would guarantee against any coolant leaks to the sump.
I was thinking of installing the cylinder sleeves with "o" rings as per factory but coating the spigot area of the sleeve where it slips into the block bore with loctite retainer 601. This would add to safety against leaks but to my interest would secure the liner from movent increasing rigidity and giving the lower thinner part of the sleeve more support in a oversized bore.

Good idea?

No...just a little bit of silicone grease...and make sure the ring does not twist when you install it

Also...make sure to clean the mating beveled edges very well..but don't scratch them

make up a few sleeve retainers out of PVC pipe and big washers before you start....at least three per side

Agree..Silicon only. I used to work for Loctite many moons ago as a test engineer and if you have any significant surface area then you appreciate how strong it is. So for example if you need to remove the liners after you apply the loctite you may have problems.

Thanks Brian16 and x-rad for your comments.
I recently have asked the same question to a alfa race engine builder and he confirmed it is a good idea to bond the cylinders in to the block as it reduces stress on the head gasket.
The engine builder said that bonding the cylinder spigots into the block has cured head gasket failure on turbo and high compression race alfa engines.
It also insulates the iron cylinder spigot from the alloy block reducing corrosion.
If the cylinders need removal from the loctite bonding all thats required is heat with a torch, but then again I want them to be in there for a long time!

Thanks,
Dom

I am not quite sure how any amount of bonding between the engine block and the liners will keep a head gasket sealed. On the microscopic level, the aluminum and iron expand a quite different rates so there will always be a certain amount of play, even after setting them in locktite. At high RPM's, those liners are moving all over the place(in small amounts)....Perhaps the locktite seal at the bevel raised the liner enough so that there was a tighter head gasket seal...but this could be accomplished by milling a few mics from the top of the block, or a ringed head gasket...and the liners will still come out easily...

just thought...I could be wrong

Moving all over the place? what's keping the head gasket from leaking then? What's keeping the head nuts tight?

If the y move, the engine will soon stop, that is my strong feeling.

x-rad, you are correct. The cylinders do move about in microscopic amounts, probably vibrate is a better term. This is why some engines have lost there cylinder protrusion above the block deck. (a common problem with diesel engines).
After a while sludge and corrosion locks the cylinder spigot into the block.

An engine making more power will also produce more combustion pressure and more side thrust from the piston and rod which puts more strain on the head gasket. The only way the cylinders of an alfa engine are secured from side thrust is by the head gasket being sandwiched by the head being held down by long streched out cylinder studs.

For side thrust the honda guys fit block savers that support the cylinders in an effort to stop the lower section of the cylinder breaking from the block. They also loctite the cylinders in place after the modification of installing Darton sleeve kits.

I am suggesting the loctite is to be used only on the lower spigot area, not in the "o"ring area.

KingD: your locktite location makes sense...

Using loctite is interesting idea. Never thought that before.

I would imagine we are talking about a throw away engine after it is worn as opposed to a rebuild. Can't imagine how much trouble you would have getting the liners out of the block after loctite.

Block savers may be a good idea....

probably can be machined from aluminum. Would suggest three connected almost half circles, a pair of these half circles for each cylinder bank. Also, should have 'legs' extending to the block base so they will remain in position.

Problem is the uneveness of the inside walls of the block and the tight tolerances to be effective....