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x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:16 am

IAP headers just received:

look well built, nice smoothing on flange where it meets the pipes...

pipes are not all exactly equal in length, but I just want good fit for now..

Unfortunately, these are painted steel, not stainless.......but for 600$, who really cares

and they come with the down pipes

size:....1.5" primary ID at head flange...2" downpipe flange through the flex joints and then 1 3/4 stub to cats

O2 bung already welded in on one side..

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 1:41 pm

anybody ever 'prime' the engine by turning the oil pump pulley with a drill/socket (just before tensioning the belt) and doing the first startup??

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:04 pm

x-rad wrote:anybody ever 'prime' the engine by turning the oil pump pulley with a drill/socket (just before tensioning the belt) and doing the first startup??

I remember when I had just joined this forum I posted a pic of a tool Id made for this operation...and was subsequently laughed off..

How the wheel has turned..here we are back at the same thing...

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:14 pm

I think it's a commonly done thing with Mopars.....to the point that there are tools made (by tool manufacturers for retail sale) to go into the drill motor to drive the oil pump (in that application a hex shaft long enough to stick out the top of block that has the end turned down for the drill)

Barry, sell your tool to a manufacurer....Lisle (sp?) comes to mind. they make lots of tools that were thought up by mechanics tring to make the work go faster and easier.

Scott

MD · Post by MD » Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:42 pm

Personally I wouldn't handle Bazza's tool even with gloves on...

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Fri Oct 05, 2007 11:32 am

I think I will give it a try..just a 13mm socket on a drill should work, and I can leave the dizzy in place

....at least I can fill the crank and send some around the galleys

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 5:06 pm

Did a little more today...got one head all finished and shimmed.

pics:

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:31 pm

x,
where did you get your gaskets (esp. head gaskets)?
Thanks,
scott

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:13 pm

Looks pretty! Did you ever identify the defect with the old block?
Jes

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:03 am

Scott:
Gaskets from Centerline. Be prepared...the set of Reinz head gaskets alone were about 150+$

Ceneterline also sells the Guarnit auto 'complete' gasket set for about 250?...but you need to be sure that the right lower pan gaskets and spark well seals are included. The plus side of the complete gasket set is that it comes with all the little seals like the liner O -rings, exhaust copper gaskets (but i don't remember seeing injector seals)

Actually, I think you can get better quality oil seals and valve guide seals if you buy those seperately from IAP

I think Centerline will substitute Reinz head gaskets for the difference in price

Jes:
Thanks!

Never took the old one apart yet...it's still in the car...I need to hook up the old Bosch wiring so I know that I can get the old engine started...and then switch it out for the new engine and break that one in.

Then comes haltech tuning on the new engine....

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 6:28 am

NOTE: anyone making my alternator suggestion change READ THIS: you don't have to grind the front of 90 amp BMW alternator to get it to fit. Just drill out as described in earlier post. I had a bent mount which I did not notice at first. Fits perfectly with no grinding. If you did grind it, just make up the ground area with a few washers....

BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY:Not my typically good day in the shop...

Cleaned some parts in the dishwasher..bad idea once the wife found out!!

Got hit in the head with spring retainer..

stupid little washer fell into alternator(which was already mounted) and got stuck....

Tried warming up a rubber gasket in the microwave, got distracted, and then there was this big fire thing (bad idea once the wife found out)

Got the engine all set up and since the lower pan has been put on, there is a slight knock ( I am thinking to just forget about it)

MD · Post by MD » Sat Oct 13, 2007 1:24 pm

Hey Gino Pepperoni,

You got a part time job in the circus right?

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 2:40 pm

thanks for kicking a guy when he is down

i took the pan off and rechecked all bolts for proper torque...all fine on lower end

I think it's a loose wrist pin because I remember one piston pin being very slightly loose (it was the one that smacked the valves in the engine out of which I got parts....I knew it but did not want to spend the money for another Venolia piston or rebush the rod (oops)....let's see what happens....

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 4:28 pm

pics:

Header wrap to keep things a little cooler..this is DEI wrap..kinda hardens in place after first run

I soak it in water first to loosed the fibers, then stretch it tight when wrapping...dries tight

had to grind a little off the block where the collector came down too close...

also had to grind a flat spot in one weld for a nut..other than that header fit very well..

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:59 am

x,
Thanks for the direction on the gaskets....had been looking so i knew they were pricy.

on the headers.....now that you have them on and wraped.......the high temp coatings used by Jet-Hot and Capps really work well. ( I live about 10 miles from capps). That coating is NOT a powder coat, its more like paint. I found it once on the web from the folks that supply capps and jet hot. try this http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm

hope that helps
scott

a bad day...