ALFAGTV6.COM

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:11 pm

Mats,
You have no idea......

or clue, evidently

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 4:49 pm

Just got me Haltech today...

Going to set it up with regular 3.0 in the car and get some base maps before putting in the new 3.0 for breakin....

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Aug 25, 2007 3:53 pm

Halwin 3D injector map baseline:

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 6:18 pm

Here are some tips for those of you new to rebuilding Alfa v6's. Do everything at your own risk..and I am sure there are other better as well as worse ways to do this.

First: clean everything as best you can BEFORE taking apart.

work on a clean surface..I like plywood with a towel cushion under the metal parts...

Photos are not really in order.

Bag all parts and lable to make rebuilding easier. HAve you new parts ready so things don't sit around and rust..

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 6:26 pm

More stuff:

tomorrow..will take heads down to local shop to see about putting in new valve guides and smoothing head surface (minimal as needed)

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Tue Aug 28, 2007 6:37 am

more stuff....

I like to work rear to front starting at #3 cylinder....rod shoulders face front only for three out of six cylinders

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Tue Aug 28, 2007 6:47 am

more...

The heads are off to a guy who has a pretty decent back yard shop. All he does is head work and was head machinist at one time for Ford research division. Seams like the guy to go to....

I had a spare 2.5 head for him to practice on and he was going to machine up a driving tool/mandrel for the valve guides.

Also, guides neede to be machined down a little further receive the valve guide seal better. All I could get were the standard IAP/Centerline valve guides and the teflon seal sat a little too tall. Also, we will machine down the inner guide of the lower valve spring seat washer and sink the valve guide about two mm further down on the intake side. This will allow clearance for the high lift cam...

Next rebuild will use standard American valves and guides and seats, just cut to length...much cheaper and easier to get..and everybody has the tools to work on them around here...

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Tue Aug 28, 2007 7:17 am

Here is something interesting:

Three variations of head gaskets not including the original three ring circus. The 'copper' coated one came off easily as did the black one. The Guarnit auto ones (middle) always stick and are a pain in the ass to get off..

I don't know who makes the others, but I think the black one is Reinz

I would like to get my hands on a set of the copper or the Reinz so if anyone knows where..let me know

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Tue Aug 28, 2007 5:49 pm

Build up..

I use a very fine flat file to clean the faces of the block and covers, followed by a light sanding with 400 grit..clean out all the little pieces with aluminum carb cleaner and air gun dry

Some gasket material will dissolve aluminum over time. I use permatex orange and have not hand any erosion issues

somebody already did some work on this block as tensioner oil galley is blocked off...

for replacement bolts..best bet is to buy an assorment of 8.8 metrics..can be found at Autozone for pretty cheap

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 2:09 pm

Engine going together well..

Worked on some of the things needed for the Haltech. This included plugging unnecessary holes in the thermostat housing and tapping a new hole in intake manifold for air temp sensor. Basically, the Haltech is practically made for this engine (Bosch system) so that the throttle position sensor and H2O temp sensor fit in stock locations with little work.

Air temp sensor fits on passenger side of intake manifold in a 'blank' spot perfectly.....

Just need to make a small alu mounting plate for TPS...

HAltech hookup is pretty simple:...4 sensors...6 injectors....power ....ground...fan control...fuel pump control...O2 sensor

Just bought a bosch wideband O2 sensor for 60$ so will eventuall switch out older O2 sensor

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Fri Aug 31, 2007 1:06 pm

Three of the four haltech sensors mounted.

Use the blank for the air temp sensor.

Use the cold start injector hole for vac to 1 bar map sensor and plug two screw holes.

Made plate for TPS from spare aluminum heat sink (the thing coil and ign unit were mounted to). Any 0-10K (or near)three wire pot will work.

Sensors are standard GM stuff from the late 90's. Don't be fooled by high priced Haltech stuff. Just bought a spare air temp and water temp sensor for 40$ with connectors. TPS sensor is a little different and I have not been able to find the same casing that they supply. Haltech TPS is about 65$.

So, most of the work is done on the intake manifold and it can all be easily reversed if you had to take the unit out for some reason.

I plan to leave the cold start air valve and hoses in place. Haltech will allow cold start enrichment so no need for cold start injector.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Fri Aug 31, 2007 3:58 pm

Tired of that wimpy 60 amp alternator? Here is BMW 90 amp conversion:

Get yourself a late 80's BMW alternator (like for the 325: Bosch # 0 120 469 777 14v/90a) These can be had rebuilt for about 90$. Get a rebuilt one because it will cost you about 60$ in bearings, copper rings, and regulator...plus it has already been tested...

anyway, conversion is simple. You can do it your own way too.

I used 1/2 inch drill bit as big bolts are easy to get in 1/2 inch. Drill lower alt. mount all the way through at 1/2inch. then grind off front aluminum spacer on front of alt. housing until flush with rest of housing face.

Cut off spacer on Alfa alt. mount as in the pics...or you can cut less off. I did it this way so I can use other alternators and not have to re-cut the mount.

I used steel pipe as a new spacer and a washer to take up any play.

Distance from center radius of belt pulley now lines up with center radius of crank pulley. Wiring is the same...one to batt and one to alt light (B+ and D+). Bosch alts come with easy to exchange volt regulators on back...however, as far as I know, you can't easily make a 60 amp alt into a 90 amp alt. Also uses a 2.2 uFd 100v cap on back..another easy change if needed...

Enjoy 90 amps and lights that don't fade.....

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 7:33 am

More tips:

I put the rear seal in before torquing the cap nuts all the way down. Makes it much easier. I also add a VERY thin layer of permatex around the outer edge of seal. Never had a leak back here with three rebuilds...

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 10:40 am

Ran harness through AC gasket on firewall..perfect fit

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:45 pm

Haltech in...started right up.

The Hal'win' computer program VERY easy to use..you can open several maps at one time. Also, there is a guage face window which is real easy to check everything at a glance...

Running a 'little' rich right now.......

Haltech stuff

Haltech Install