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GregoryV · Post by **GregoryV** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:49 pm

Hey - and nice job on the alternator, I'm gonna copy cat that one from you just so you know!

GV

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 2:25 pm

well....all that wiring mess is coming out so I can use the standard Bosch to break in the new engine.

WHAT A PITA..

thanks gregory...you don't have to grind the face of the alternator as much as I did because the pulley sticks out a little more than stock. I have to put a thin washer in to space correctly..

GregoryV · Post by **GregoryV** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:21 pm

Cool

Can't believe that headgasket problem is still there?!

Reminds me of my 73 Capri I once had - rebuilt a killer motor for it with a Wieand manifold, started it up with clouds of vapor out the exhaust - number 5 cylinder had filled with water and hydrolocked! Resleeved it thinking I must not have done the manifold gasket properly, was about to start up the new motor again, but decided to pull the plugs first and water came pooring out the #5! After tons of investigating it turned out the "new" manifold had a pin-hole leak from the water jacket into the #5 plenum!! And of course the way parts go they get the disclaimer that they are only responsible for the replacing the defecting part!

That one really tested my patience to the point that I didn't rebuild a motor again for many years ... anyway, hang in there on it.

GV

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:48 am

Thanks Gregory...
well i think the gasket problem (now number 3) is really a block problem...lucky I have a spare

Now the question is should I take the new (and they are new) liners out of the bad block and put them in the 'hot' engine...or should I just go with the liners I honed myself( which were still in spec and are already installed)?

had some more trying times this weekend......was fitting up the C+B cams to the other 'new' set of heads and clearance was way off...could not even turn the cam because the train was just locking up...spent about an hour with the head guy changing valves , shims, springs, buckets, washers...etc.....Nothing worked

I figured it was that the cams came off a 2.5 head and there must have been some kind of difference......

but all the parts looked the same..buckets same length...except the oversized valves have a little more length above the retainers (i guess to increase spring pressure slightly?)

this morning i was about to give up and list the cams on Ebay...then it hit me

shims and retainers might be different..

YEP...shims thinner by at least .02 inch AND valve spring retainer is different...3.0 has 3 little dots on top and the "INTAKE" valve sits lower by at least 2-3mm. Different retainers for intake and exhaust!!So all this should work..I just have to run the parts over to the shop later.

Also, we replaced all guides with mag bronze, counter sunk the guides 2-3mm further to increase valve seal clearance for the extra cam lift
Also, we gained more clearance by recessing the inner portion of the valve spring seat. all this so we don't crush the seals...and he did a real nice job grinding the bore edge so that the intake cam lobes fit.

started with the teflon/nylon valve seals but they just sit too tall and Gerry the shop guy says any little scratch and they leak. He says the standard viton seals are the best.....so now I have to get some of those..

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:47 am

Got viton seals and six new 3.0 intake valves today as the oversized valves were just a little too worn...better to do a good job on these heads .

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 4:57 am

I am really impressed by Gerry the head guy, he doing some decent port and runner work included in the rest of the package.

Now that he has purchased or made the tools required to do the valve guides, and will soon cut the stone for the seats, he has gotten to know these heads pretty well. His machine work is excellent and honestly, i was looking for any nicks or scratches around the spring seats and around the conbustion chamber and I could not find any visible marks....

We shall see how it all goes together but this guy seems like the real deal. His is very helpful and worked with me(and I am a picky SOB) on all the little details.

mjr · Post by **mjr** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 11:49 am

hmm, x rad, looking at your haltech install, Im starting to wonder weather to go ahead with MS11 or not?, your haltech looks easier and just as good. How does it compare to MS? ease of install, tuning etc.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:16 pm

Haltech is very easy to install...but i have only the fuel control from haltech. You will need a cam or crank pos sensor for the full system.

I have installed full haltech systems and they were very straightforward (except for one mislabled wire)

Never installe MS so I don't know about them

download the haltech program from their new system and try it out

'Haltech' on the web

mjr · Post by **mjr** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:48 pm

X rad, thanks will look them up. I only want fuel for now, I am doing some mild tuning on a 2.5, so need to sort fuel out, I will do ignition later. MS is good, but seems so expensive. Did you set up a wideband O2 sensor for tuning? how did you get your intial start up maps?

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:06 pm

wideband bosch O2 sensor was 50$ on the net. Haltech accepts the wideband inputs(wideband sensor has a much more gentle slope than standard O2 sensor giving more accurate readings - hence the name)

Initially..engine started right up and ran rich per the given settings of the Haltech.

Did some basic tuning with my laptop to get near stoich (really easy)for most throttle positions....but then blew head gasket

so it's sitting right now.

Just got a call from Gerry the head guy and heads are ready!! will pick them up tomorrow.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:01 am

Got the heads back

I did not port polish them to save some cash but Gerry cleaned up the ports anyway for me.

Here are some pics....

ATTENTION: I am promoting the guy who did the head work on my 3.0L in the next few paragraphs. I am doing this because Alfa owners out there who need good work done for a good price may want to talk to him.

If you are in the Detroit/Ann Arbor area and you need head work, call this guy Gerry at Berkside (BHperformance)

http://www.mspmall.com/bhp/

NOTE THE NEW PHONE NUMBER not yet changed on the site!! 734-455-1905

Gerry does the machine work in his shop and is very accessable if you want to keep track of what is going on. he was always polite and charges a very reasonable rate. The work is first class and will be EXACTLY what you want without mistakes or waste.

I am a picky SOB and he did everything I asked and made several good suggestions and mods. He has tons of knowledge about heads and porting from years of racing experience.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:11 am

more pics...

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:16 pm

More stuff:

Ok..got all the vlaves labled and matched to corresponding seat when they were ground. Noticed that some retainers sit lower on the stem than others making a clearance issue in some instances.

Turns out that there are two obviously different valve spring retainers, one with 3 dots on top and one with smooth top. However, even when using only 3dot retainers, I was still having clearance issues (same setup producing different lobe clearances)

Turns out that when i measured inner diameters of each retainer on a jewlers ring gauge, there are at least 4 distinct inner diameters for two types of retainers. In my pic you can see size groupings with two groups of six representing the most closely matched retainers and which did not seem to be stretched in the center (like a porn stars a**!)

Also, there are two different types of valve retainer locks (little 1/2 circle things) If you look closely, one has a small inner grove right below the radius (not a wear mark) and the others don't. Some of these retainers were damaged and were not reused in the measuring. These two types of retainers each make a different stem height above the spring retainer affecting clearance differently. some were more worn than others so obviously, I ordered new ones (almost 2$ each!)

TIP: for trial settings of valves and quick change of parts, i suggest you use a spare spring off the exhaust rocker arm shaft(if you have one)...just the right size and strength and you can still turn the cam with your fingers. I would not recommend anything but the right valve springs for setting shim heights, though!. To remove the exhaust rocker arm shaft, you only have to remove big allen screw, shaft is tapped for screw for easy removal.

so all parts laid out and matched. Found a few errors made by last person to put together one set of heads I have for spare parts.
1) Valve guides too high and seals smashed
2) damaged follower bores and buckets
3) valve springs not right diameter and too stiff
4) exhaust rocker arm shaft in backward (oil holes should line up with arms)
5) hardened washer left out of spring cups

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:44 pm

OK..more stuff.

Heads clean, bench clean, new cardboard, ready to go....

springs and parts under MUCH pressure when compressed, don't put your eye in direct line...

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:54 pm

More stuff:

Since we sunk the guides justa little more than normal, we had to machine down the lower spring cup.

Make sure lower spring cup goes on BEFORE vlave seal

Driving in new seals...make sure you use something nearly equal in diameter so that you are putting force on the metal edge of the seal and not the soft rubber part. seals can be distorted easily. Seal has to be driven in just beyond the front edge of the seal housing or it can get damaged

some seal are better than others. not all have the internal spring. The ones that you buy individually from IAP are pretty good..but the ones in the total engine kit are different and IMO not as well made