ALFAGTV6.COM

brookstroutr · Post by **brookstroutr** » Thu Sep 27, 2007 1:24 pm

What's the front crank nut's size? I only have up to a 38mm socket and I might need to change the front seal that didn't take after the rebuild.

Also, any tips on R & R'ing the seal?

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:55 pm

V6? 41mm IIRC

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Fri Sep 28, 2007 2:17 pm

put the seal in when the front plate is off the engine...

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Fri Sep 28, 2007 6:42 pm

You can replace the front crank seal with the lower front engine cover on engine. Lock up the drive shaft or something so you don't spin the engine backwards when you (try) undo the crank pulley nut. It comes off fairly easily with an impact wrench (if a breaker bar doesn't do it), but don't forget to pry the notch out on the crank pulley nut first. You will probably need a new crank pulley nut.
Jes

brookstroutr · Post by **brookstroutr** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 9:55 am

Thanks for the nut size, Mats. I couldn't get anything in to measure it.

ar4me & x-rad,

You guys are confusing me! Does the seal go in from the rear of the front cover requiring removal or not. The manual appears to be to remove this cover. I'd like to confirm so if there is a gasket necessary for the cover as well. I've had other motors that went in from the front cover.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 10:49 am

It goes in from the front/outside.

brookstroutr · Post by **brookstroutr** » Sat Sep 29, 2007 10:58 am

Thanks again, Mats. I really don't like molesting non-leaking parts if I do not see the need. I figured this may be the case as most of this type of seal circumstance allows the front of the seal to protect the back side from exposure to adverse elements.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:58 am

the problem is getting to old one out without scratching the crank or damaging the seal housing with the front cover still on the engine....

the hardest part wil be getting the pulley and crank nut off..once you have done this, you might as well go the rest of the way...you will need a new front cover gasket and some permatex...pan gasket should be OK if your careful and if it's not too old.

It's only a few covers and belts and bolts to do it right and to seat the seal square is much easier done w/cover outside on a bench...

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 8:37 am

IMO you are complicating matters. How do you then do camshaft seals? Rear main seal? Also, if you should upset the sump gasket it is no fun to try replace upper sump gasket with engine in car. Anyway, each to his own.
Good luck,
Jes

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:39 am

ar4me??? the leak is only at the front main....

brookstroutr · Post by **brookstroutr** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:28 pm

x-rad,

Thanks for the foto. What I'll do is to get the front cover gasket and seal then make the decision when I get in there. Ironic, I just had to do the water pump & timing belt due to the leak. I didn't have the luxury of taking the time to do this seal issue as the GTV6 is the only runner where I am.

Also, the motor was rebuilt a few years ago w/15k on the motor since. I'm trying to save up for my 3.0 build up.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:36 pm

Brooks: Trust me...trying to get that seal out with the crank in place will be very difficult. But evaluate the choice when you have the parts sounds like a good idea.

Sometime it's hard to get them out even when on a bench (see my seal post in engine tear down)

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:28 pm

x-rad wrote:ar4me??? the leak is only at the front main....

X-rad, It was a hypothetical question to you: How would you do the camshaft seals and rear crank seal? In case the question still doesn't make sense: Very similar to the front crank seal, but you cannot take a "cover" to the bench. Anyway, whatever floats your boat, I just think it is less work leaving the front cover on engine.

Jes

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 12:33 am

x-rad wrote:Brooks: Trust me...trying to get that seal out with the crank in place will be very difficult. But evaluate the choice when you have the parts sounds like a good idea.

Sometime it's hard to get them out even when on a bench (see my seal post in engine tear down)

sheet metal screw straight into the seal and pull it right off.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 12:30 pm

ar4me: OK..hypothetically, if I had big enough leaks at all those seals ..i would pull the engine to redo them..

you are right , though, it is less work...if you can get the seal out

Mats: maybe you guys in the East have different seal manufacturers...I have never had one come out really easily...even with the right tools

and there is only a little metal edge to drive a screw into (to avoid the rubber inner lip and to avoid scoring the aluminum housing) but this is a good idea and maybe it will work

Front Crank Nut Size WTD.