ALFAGTV6.COM

Just finished rebuilding and installing this 3.0L Into an 85 GTV. Fired right up. The sweetest open exhaust sound!! Firmed up the rear engine mount and center driveshaft bearing housing with some black polyurethane. Picked up new 'Bosch type connectors" (8 for 15$) w/quick disconnect spring mechanism. The 92 Ford Mustang 5L Bosch O2 sensor for 40$(NAPA) works well, too.

Nice! I love the red plenum and head covers

Thanks for the compliment!

Powder coat and polished to get that look. Next on the 'to do' list:
driveshaft, interior, hit the rust spots, and take my patient fiancee for the first ride!

Nice engine X rad
hows the project/conversion going, was it a 4 cylinder gtv or GTV6 to start with?

It was an 85 GTV6. Apparently it came from New Jersey where someone dropped in an entire Milano Verde drive(engine to tranny).
UNFORTUNATELY, I was just toolin around the park last week and a whole bunch of antifreeze came out the exhaust. I checked each plug and found #5 wet with green!!! I drained the antifreeze( no oil). Oil change showed no antifreeze in the oil(Phewww!) I think it's likely a cracked cylinder head or a cracked liner or, less likely, a blown head gasket. I won't get to fix it until next year due to a move!!

Sorry to hear that x rad, geez no oil into coolant and vice versa is normally a good thing ! except in this case where you hope its just the head gasket, so a cracked cylinder head sounds very bad, head gasket or sunk cylinder liner/crack should result in oil/coolant exchange, must have really overheated to crack the head, maybe injector #5 cylinder gone lean, have you still got compression on #5 cylinder? If its gone lean i'm not sure whats likely to fail first the exhaust valve,head then piston but I'm sure someone has had this bad experience first hand.
Just have to remove the cylinder head to be sure and for your sake i hope its just head gasket.
good luck

Thanks for the tip. I hope it's not a sunken liner!! When I first bought the car, cylinder 5 and six both had cracked rings and were knocking pretty badly. I rebuilt the entire engine a year ago and had no problems until just the other day. Injectors were all flow tested and worked fine at that time. But, I won't be looking at it until next year.

Be sure to rust proof the liner, if you leave it with water in the cylinder the piston rings will rust like crazy and the liner too...

So do something about that ASAP, it will save you a ton of grief later.

Mats is always thinking...sorry to hear about your ride,this just means you should go bigger this winter,suuperrcharge!!How did the wedding go?

As an aside, one of the best things you can ever do is find a woman who:

a) Appreciates Alfas, and the time involved
b) Realises that it's constructive
c) Knows that she will only ever come a really (really really!) close 2nd to the car when youre driving it, or scheming your next mod (so nearly all the time hehehe)

Congrats on the wedding, and get that blower kit happening!

SydneyJules: I watched your movie.......NICE!!!!!!

x-rad,

Could you tell about the black polyurethane please? I have bad engine mounts that need help.

Thanks,
Scott

X-rad,

I reread your thread. When your 3.0 was knocking, was it knocking even when cold?

Zman: ...... engine knocked cold hot anytime.... except under first accelerating. Turned out to be two bad pistons with bad rings and ring grooves(5 + 6)...broken rings and marred liners. Pistons were slapping around. All is good now!

MR2 Zig: Black polyurethane from local building supply company(comes in tube for caulking gun, made by 3M)...very strong and flexible, but not strong enough for engine mounts. I use it to fill in gaps on original mounst. You can buy new rubber ones from IAP for reasonable cost.

x-rad,

I tried and failed to get the rear engine mount out of IAP....so I'm looking for alternatives.....I may have to send them to Austrailia to the fellow that is recasting the rubber bits in poly.

Scott