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What do you guys do as far as tappet goes? Do you re-use (provided they are in good condition) ? The new tappets for 24Vs are US$77/each. That is completely ridiculous. 24 X $77 = one or two used 24V COMPLETE engines!!!!

12V are less exorbitant, but some say throw away even good used tappets. Some say, just break the wear patterns and make sure it is not concaved. Opinions?

I think I am going to have the 24V tappets inspected and coated. For my 12V, I'm biting the bullet and getting new ones.

Alternatives?

Larry Jr. at APE and I THINK(!) Rich Goodrich indicated that the used ones were ok as long as they were flat and had no pitting....this for 12v. I did get some used ones from Larry Jr. If I remember right they were $3 each for the intakes and $5 each for the exhausts. I took my old ones and the ones I bought (also used) to work and put them on a valve grinding plate and worked them down to 1000 grit grinding compound. Some of my old ones were pitted, but I have enough to go around.

You can check or grind them yourself using a heavy piece of glass or a known flat piece of steel and several grades of valve grinding compound. Use the oil based variety in the finest of the coarse grade, middle of medium, middle of fine, and finest of very fine.

Kevin had a bit in one of his long topics about what he had done with the 24v lifters and converting from hydraulic to mechanical valve actuation. He may have had something in there on what ones to keep or toss....I don't remember now.

HTH,

Z, never seen a worn 24v tappet. Extremely important is to remove hydraulic lifters and colapse them before you put them back. If you not sure , when you get there I will send some pics. Seen lots of worn 12v tappets

I do more or less the same thing. I lap them with wet/dry sandpaper with some lite oil or wd40. I place the paper on a flat surface and do figure 8's with the tappet. Then I use the buffing wheel to bring them to a mirror finish.
I have buffed all the moving parts and the valves. but I do not know if this is the best. just like boats a mirror surface might not be the best. a bit of surface might be good at holding oil? but I have not had any tappet go bad doing this..

One other thing I here you should do. that I have not done yet. Is to burnish in some moly power into the tappets after they are resurfaced.

Well I've installed the RJR cams with new tappets. Still cams and tappets cheaper than 164S cams. Hope to run the car tonight.

For my 155 V6, I will install coated (either ionbond or swaintech), refurbished, good condition used tappets with new the new cams.

Zamani wrote:Well I've installed the RJR cams with new tappets. Still cams and tappets cheaper than 164S cams. Hope to run the car tonight.

Got it running? What's the result? Did you also get the adjustable sprockets? Remapped the engine?
Jes

It was running, but my ecu had some CMOS ram error issues. So before I get stranded I sent it out to have it looked over. One thing I noticed, and one thing RJ told me was my car would run rich with the CB fuel maps and RJR cams, eventhough the RJ cams has 0.6mm more lift on the intakes. Apparently this has to due to the ramp design. I should get it back in 1-2 weeks and will have the car on the dyno.