ALFAGTV6.COM

Guys,

I slotted all my engine mounts and on the driver's side (LHD) of the car I had to also weld a small piece of metal to the metal part of the engine rubber mount. For that mount, the rubber is too close to the bottom stud and I can't screw the M8 nut . I'm thinking of a custom engine mount using the engine lifting point. Any ideas?

BTW, the engine is much better aligned and there doesn't seem to be any driveshaft vibration. It also has the Sarf Afrikaan donut cage (courtesy of Kev).

SO, looking for ideas for engine stabilizer at the top of the car.

12 or 24V
For the 24V I retained the factory bracket and double skinned the inner guard. Used a mount off a 164. Extended with an adjustment in the middle

24v

Lovely car mate, and thanks for the idea but my car has a 164 engine so not quite the same innit? But you’ve given me an idea. Probably will use your idea with some mods. Cheers.

Thanks! It's coming along

The 164 had a similar arrangement and could be adapted to be very similar.

You have a RHD car, so I'm assuming with the booster on the driver's side, you've removed the linkage rod for the brakes? Where are you located mate?

Yeah RHD, I now use a 147 booster and master cyl, far shorter in length as master mostly sits inside booster. Free'd up some room for the intake manifold and cut a lot of weight in the setup.
Custom adapted pedal box. Now Bmw e36 clutch master sits inside firewall.

I'm located in Aus.

I fail to see the need for any special mounting arrangement. I used the std V6 mounts on my 164-based 3.2 and no problems at all. Am I missing something?

Jim K.

I couldn’t get the nut fattened on the driver’s side lower engine mount stud because the rubber block was too close to it. So the engine only has 3 fastened points at the front instead of 4.

How do you guys come up with these strange problems? Why can't the nut be tightened? Did someone elongate the slot or is the mount badly made in some way?

Jim K.

75Evo, it sounds like your mount is soft or poor quality. Lightly jack the engine so you can nip it up then settle the engine and do final tighten with open end spanner. Then order a new mount

Jimk, for me it's piece of mind due to available space with the exhaust i built for the 24v. Quite a tight fit between spaghetti, chassis and sump... I did it as a measure to minimize engine movement.
With the previous setup on the 12v I had 20mm between alternator and chassis and the alt fan would touch when cornering hard enough. (Which only showed its head when some front end geometry was changed, atleast I know thats working )
No hint of touching now with the stay bar even with tighter tolerances around the exhaust.
I also run a custom front donut setup that is far stiffer and really likes to be held in alignment which now shows no sign of vibration since anchoring the engine better.

Well the mount is old, and it has"bloated" a bit, porbably compressed which means it expended on the sides due to age. Similar to a beer belly .....

I'm not touching that mounts anymore, more trouble than it's worth. Especially after aligning the engine and driveshaft. I don't remember slotting the bottom holes of the rubber mount, only the top. So maybe in the future I will change the mounts.

My dad always told me there is nothing like a good mount...

But one stud didn't quite get in due to a beer belly......