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tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Tue Jul 26, 2005 10:37 pm

Any one got an idea as to remove a siezed head of the studs? This boy is locked on good and tight! Tried double locknut on the stud and tried turning it to break the seal to no avail. Got some special penetrating liquid on the studs now. Hope it will seep in over night. Bit weary of heat. Any simple solutions guys? Cheerrz Tim.

fortom · Post by **fortom** » Wed Jul 27, 2005 12:32 am

Whats up Tim, why you taking the head s off?

Tom

tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Wed Jul 27, 2005 1:01 am

Got water leaks after changing the water pump. Seems both sides have sprung leaks. So be nice to get it sorted now. Having bad run with vehicles at the mo. Bloody ute {5.0L Commodore} spat an ignition module. Hobsons choice for Tim.

Glen B · Post by **Glen B** » Wed Jul 27, 2005 7:54 pm

Hello tImBoWe,

some ideas to get those heads off, brass / wood or plastic wedges between head and block, don't pound on those exhaust manifolds much. There are some cast tangs lobes on the head for leverage. I used a steel punch and dressed up the dents when I was done.

Keep an eye on the exhaust rocker shaft that runs the lenght of the head, it has cutout dimples in it that line up with the head bolts. This rod doesn't rotate once it's on the block and the bolts are through but it can rock a few degrees or so to jam under the head bolt threads.
Some needle nose vise grips came in handy, get the spacer spring off to one side and see if you can get any play there. Easy on those bolts as far as double nutting them, guys say that they are a pain to find replacements for.

Folks feel free to jump in if I'm off a little.

Tim get rid of the oil in the pan, as soon as you crack this open it all ends up in the sump along with the coolant and any mud that was between the cylinder liners. When it's off have you thought about redoing the valve stem guides and seals ?
best luck
Glen

tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Wed Jul 27, 2005 8:05 pm

Thanks for your input Glen. Will try the brass wedge idea [gently]. Got a little movement out of one today. I think its just a perserverence thing. Made up a plate that sits on the studs with threded rod into the plug holes. Just a little pressure at a few points and hopefully it will come free. Soooo keeping the brake fluid and kerosine mix squirted at those damn studs. Will update. Thanx Tim.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Jul 28, 2005 3:22 am

what engine?

tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Thu Jul 28, 2005 4:43 pm

Mats Its a 2.5 1986. Any solutions? Cheerz Tim. [Getting frustrated].

tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 5:42 pm

O.K this is the latest method to try and remove these heads. 3mm holes bored down the sides of the siezed studs. Only about 12mm down. Then fill up the holes with the magic kero/brake fluid combo. Hoping that will find its way down into the affected area and help the release those little a$$holes! So with all these methods hope to have some progress to report soon. Any one else had this much trouble? Tim.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 2:26 am

Are you sure it's the studs that's causing all this and not the locating dowels?
Usually the head on the four bangers need a couple of good whacks with a rubber mallet to break loose (AFTER you loosen the two M8 screws that are located on the timing cover).
Maybe the V6 has a similar thing with a couple of screws in weird positions?

tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 4:28 pm

Cheerz Mats. Will check it more closely. Dosent appear to be any other bolts or the like. Any one got a manual that shows any hidden bolts? Getting desperate for a solution. Thanx Tim.

Post by **Michael** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:58 pm

I don’t recall any weird extra bolts on the V6 ... but definitely remember those extra 8mm ones on the 4 cylinder engine.
Here is a pic of mine...

I think you are on the right track with the fabricated plate which sits on the studs with threaded rod into the plug holes - I think Alfa had just such a tool for removing stubborn heads on the 4/6 cylinder cars too. I believe this is due to the electrolytic reaction between dissimilar metals - spectacular corrosion, I've been lucky up till now in that all the V6 engines I've worked on came off with little effort (and I reinstalled with a light coat of anti-seize compound on the studs

)

Have you removed the engine? If not, it might be worthwhile to gain a bit more access for banging/tapping on the head from various new angles.

Best of luck,

tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 8:50 pm

Thanx Michael. Just hatched cunning plan number 6. So sit down and get ready for this: Gonna weld high tensile nuts on to the head studs and try to break the grip with a big impact gun. The ones they use for truck tyres. If this plan fails the motor will be comming out. May have to look at a 164 motor or some replacement heads from IAP. Thinking the head gaskets have been leaking for some time and have caused this wicked chemical bonding between the steel and alloy. One way or another it will be sorted. Tim.

fortom · Post by **fortom** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:32 am

Tim just a thought, are the rocker shafts not catching on the studs? i am sure when i pulled my heads the left head would not come out until i moved the shafts a bit.
Tom

tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:51 pm

Hey Tom. The bottom studs dont seem to be locked up too much. Its the top boys. Man are they locked up good and proper! Tried the old weld a nut to the stud and impact gun it loose trick to no avail at all. In fact the nut and top of the stud was shawn off. maybe due to the heat from the weld making the stud brittle. Next step is try drilling down through the stud and eventually bore it out. May look at getting the motor out and getting a machine shop to do that. MISSION !!!! Tim.

tImBoWe · Post by **tImBoWe** » Thu Aug 18, 2005 5:02 pm

Quick update: Made up a plate to bolt on to the bottom row of studs and the tappet cover bolt holes, to wich can be clamped a electro magnetic drill press so we can bore down through the studs and release the heads. This will be the last atempt to get these little fu3ks off before big angle grinder does the job for us! Tim.

Head siezed.