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esperan
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help needed

Post by esperan »

Hi All
brought in a gotec mfi (not pro - std one) back from RSA.
Removed all the l-jet stuff. I have kept the original fuel injectors (used jumper 3-8 so that i can use the orig low impedance injectors)(only using the fueling aspect of the ECU - ignition is still as original)
Have replaced the TPS with a new potentiometer type & also have the MAP tube connected.I will be fitting an O2 sensor provided the car can run to the exhaust shop!
Hooked up the car to laptop - set all the defaults & turn the key....car starts first off, idles roughly, accelerates like cr_p!So i downloaded the map from the link above & it makes it worse.&forgot to save the default map that the ecu came with!
If on the default screen when setting the input for either TPS-MAP or a combination, I find that on TPS alone the car wont idle, just dies, on MAP alone , if you flick the throttle it stumbles & accelerates slowly up, on a combo of TPS/MAP give best possible outcome with tuning(i think)
Gotec recomends TPS only as this gtv6 is a pretty std 3.0L with a group N cam only.9no turbo etc)
I have played around with the injector cycle- reduced time/increased time but still cant get the dam car to run at least a little efficiently so that i can get the O2 sesor fitted as well as get it to the dyno shop...PLEASE HELP...can someone email me a usable map for Perth in australia...or is something that im doing wrong with the set up.
The tps on the laptop works fine & varies according to throttle position.
The other important question i have is that on the original ljet, it had one of the hoses that go from the plenum to the aux air valve to the air intake tube...do i disconnect this/seal it or leave as is (if sealed car does not run)can someone advise on what/all the essential hoses are & where they connect to.....
All in all ,although im am getting a bit frustrated..it is fun to tune the car.
any help is highly appreciated.
bteoh
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Post by bteoh »

esperan,

Email me your add. and I'll see what I can do. Mine runs the 3.0 24v motor and is currently set on MAP. I tried TPS only and it runs like crap. Not sure how to calibrate the TPS as it shows 31 on no throittle and about 85 at max throttle. Didn't know how to calibrate it as the manual from Gotech is not very comprehensive. Try emailing Louis Cloete at Gotech to see if he has any ideas.

I can give you the map for my car but not sure if it's relevant as I am running a 60-2 crank angle sensor and vr6 coil pack.

Cheers,
Brian
esperan
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Post by esperan »

Hi Brian

Thanks for the help.
My email add is esperan@arach.net.au
Last night I did try using a map from Louis (gta 3.2L)...and the car runs ok....but sounds as if it has a miss/ one cyclinder not firing optimally.(the car does not backfire or anything like that at all)(checked all plug wires by removing them while motor running...definately all cyclinders firing

Could you also email all the values that you input on the F5/default screen.
& the other ? is the vacuum line from the plenum to the AAV...do i put a direct line to bypass the AAV or just seal it???

Once again thank you
esperan
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SamW
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Post by SamW »

Esperan,

I am running a 3.0 with GoTech, 164S cams and headers, I have a good map for drivability, but I am using different injectors, I can send you my map this evening, I would think you could tune it by making changes to the air temp correction or water temp correction to compensate for the different injectors. I am running straight MAP with the stock TPS, but let me ask you where you plugged the MAP tube to? I am using the AVV, I left it plugged in and rewired it to give it 12v all the time, and a new ground because I think it was originally grounded to the Bosch ECU.

I have a few older maps already on this site under this topic, you might try one of them, if you have not already.

Sam
esperan
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Post by esperan »

Hi Sam

Thanks for the reply

Firstly, i dont know what I have done but the car is running like an absolute bullet...revs quickly & smoothly right up to redline. I used one of Louis (from gotec) maps.I had no idea that my car could go like that with a 3.0L motor ( wonder what my 3.3L will go like??)
As far as the map tube is concerned, I have put a t piece on the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator.
The AAV is left as the standard connection was besides not being plugged in to a power source.I wonder if a direct vac tube from plenum to air intake is the way to go...however car is running just fine as it is.
Took the car to work this morning and I tell you what....im still smilling!!!!!! :lol:
bteoh
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Post by bteoh »

Esperan,

Glad to know everything's work out ok. Is your cold start ok? Mine is still not great until it warms up....
esperan
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Post by esperan »

hi Brian

thanks

cold start is ok...takes a few seconds to idle smoothly..then its pretty smooth....car fires up straight away at the tap of the key
ps. gotec is only used on the fueling side...the ignition is still as original.
I still have to fit the O2 sensor...that i will do next wed...then i will know whats going on with the AF ratio.....then its of to get dyno'd

rgds
esperan
bteoh
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Post by bteoh »

That's great. Let me know how you go. Maybe we can catch up one of these days. There's a few GTV6 guys here in Perth that wouldn't mind a get together eg, Kim Davis and Stephen Monterosso....let me know.
My email is bteoh@westnet.com.au
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SamW
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Post by SamW »

Great! Good to hear, sounds like you got it plugged in the right place, I had mine plugged into the vacuum line at the throttle body that controls the vacuum advance and that caused all sort of issues tring to get it running. I am playing with the ingintion map on mine right now, so if you get to that stage, let me know.

bteoh, I have been struggling with the cold start issue too, I have it starting now at temps around 0 to -2 C, any colder than that and I have to get the starting fluid out...
bteoh
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Post by bteoh »

Sam,

What did you do to improve cold start? I wasn't sure how to do it but temps in Perth don't go too low. But even then , it idles rough, like it's on less than 6 cylinders. Could you elaborate on water and air temp corrections? Thanks
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SamW
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Post by SamW »

I think the F6 and F7 keys get you to the water temp and air temp correction screens, basically it is a % increase in fuel based on the temp of the air in the intake and the water in the engine. As the temp decrease you increase your mixture by a certain %, engine temp is the easiest since it is only cold at start up, so it is the most controlled. Air temp can stay low if you get enough cold air into the engine, so I have used less adjustment there. The other thing you have is the cold debur which is now called start up fueling, I think if you keep that around 10 you should be good.

On the water temp side, I am still using the original Bosch sensor, so it is not in tune with GoTech, so the indicted temp is not the true temp, but I start enrichement at about 40 with a 2.7%, the 5.8%, 9.6%, 14% on up with a max at 10 of 30%.

On the air side I am at 0% down to about 30, at 25 I go up to 1%, then at 15 I go to 2% and then ramp up slowly from there, I might have mine a little too rich at the moment, but I can load the map on this site and you can take a look at what I have. I think i have it named "sammycool2.dfi"
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Barry
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Post by Barry »

If I may guys,leave the AIR temp well alone..If its defaulted to a value,dont change anything..If its zero,leave it at zero...

Once you have the engine setup 95%,start playing a little with air temp .

Obviously if its a turbo,all I have said means squat. 8)
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
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