ALFAGTV6.COM

SamW · Post by **SamW** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 3:19 am

OK, I spent Sunday pulling the stock harness out of the Verde and splicing it to the GoTech harness. I think I have most things done, it looks like I can keep the cold start injector since it works off the TTS and not the ecu, so I will leave that plugged in. I got Greg's new injectors installed. I could never figure out how the fuel pump worked off the AFM unless the signal ran backwards through the combo relay. I am keeping the combo relay and the stock wires for the coolant gauge.

I also got the intake sent off to the welder, so maybe in a week or two I will have the Verde running. Also JJ, I may have to aks you to resend a CD like the one you inlcuded with GT pro, I may have lost the CD, but let me check with a friend to see if he has it.

SamW · Post by **SamW** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 6:15 am

DaveH,

What were the pins on the Combo relay for the FP trigger?

DaveH · Post by **DaveH** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 6:45 am

Sam, looking at the 528i pdf ( http://www.firstfives.org/faq/ljet/528i ... ematic.PDF ), it appears that the fuel pump relay is triggered by: 86a from ignition 'start' position and 86b from the AFM switch, which takes over once the ignition key is let go of.

The return for this current is via 85 - it grounds at the ECU.

I suspect you need to run separate grounds for everything back to the point where the GT unit gets its ground - or else noise could destroy something.

If anyone out there sees an error in what I've described, please point it out. I'm not a Bosch EFI expert - I'm just trying to interpret the schematics.

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Tue Jun 21, 2005 12:02 pm

Sam,

I hooked up the GoTech Pro on the 3.7 just like I did with the GoTech Standard on my verde - it works well and is very simple. This eliminates the stock dual relay and need for the feed from the AFM to keep the fuel pump running - I use a simple relay to switch the fuel pump on. Only drawback is that I currently trigger that relay with the ignition switch. Hence, it runs whenever the ignition is on. If interested I can post some pics in a separate thread. Let me know.

Jes

BTW, I don't use the cold start injector anymore - GoTech can handle cold start.

SamW · Post by **SamW** » Wed Jun 22, 2005 3:19 am

Jes,

Since the CSI seems to be free, I am going to try it, if the GoTech seems to work fine with out it, or if part of the current system fails, I will can it. I may ask for your 3.0 map since i have the same injectors and all, this will at least get me started. My intake is being welded this week, so this weekend I may get mine fired up, did you mount the ECU in the same Bosch place?

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Wed Jun 22, 2005 6:27 am

I was actually planning to try mount it "in the ashtray", but didn't get around to it yet. Although I don't expect any problems, it is nice to always be able to watch the LEDs flashing (correctly) without having to take it out from the "Bosch" location. For now it sits on the lower support for the glove box (just like JJ's), with the glove box removed. Though, that is just temporarily. Mounting it in the ashtray is one of those things deep down on the to-do list...

Jes

junglejustice · Post by **junglejustice** » Thu Jun 23, 2005 10:59 pm

Hhmmm... Hey Jes, we didn't do any splicing…? We ripped it ALL out! Sam, what did I miss? You are supposed to take the entire old wiring harness out - all of the way back to the ECU and all of the way forward to the injectors, the water temp sensors, the cold-start injector, to the coil, to the cold-start injector - all of it...!

You should only need the supplied GoTech harness now... As far as I know, the old L-Jet ECU fired the cold-start injector (via the temp sensor), but the temp sensor can't talk to the cold-start injector now without the old ECU...

Jes and mine are both unplugged! (They just sit there now to plug-up the hole in the plenum!)

The GoTech program has its own cold-start enrichment via the "cold-start de-bur" function that you set right in the GoTech setup screens! It enriches all six of the main injectors to facilitate cold start!

O the relays; I really would go the way that Jess did! - Much simpler and more reliable than working through the old relays.

SamW · Post by **SamW** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 3:24 am

Well, I got it set up and I will give it a shot, if not, I will go your way.

The reason I did it was for the connector to the coil, they are made into the harness, the iginiton power module, the relay for the ecu, the relay for the FP, the power line for the AAV, the temp sender for the gauge, the power lines to the o2 sensor, that and the CSI system. So there are about 10 wires I brought over from the old harness, most of it is going away, I just wanted to use what I could, that way I know my relays are hooked up right...

SamW · Post by **SamW** » Sat Jun 25, 2005 9:00 am

OK, since my electrical engineer (DaveH) agreeded with you, I will ditch the CSI system, next time one of the East Atlanta Alfa V6 club members has a CSI issue, we can swap out with mine...

Here is a picture of my harness, I have things group as to where they go, I will plug in tomorrow.

SamW · Post by **SamW** » Sat Jun 25, 2005 9:05 am

This is what gets thrown away, not sure if it is any use to anyone, maybe good for someone with MS?

4agedub · Post by **4agedub** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 10:25 am

I've found that it is better most of the times to completely pull out the existing engine harness and install the Gotech harness. This will eliminate bad joins and make the engine bay neater as well.

On new vehicles we tend to keep the old harness in positon and simply splice in.

At the end of the day it all comes down to what you prefer.

SamW · Post by **SamW** » Fri Jul 22, 2005 2:56 am

4agedub,

You seem to be a gotech expert, just as a clarification, I followed the instructions in the gotech manual and ran my coil fire wire to the ignition module, Jes ran his right to the coil, his is a much cleaner installation, plus removes one more eletronic component that can go bad, plus I would not have to use that section of the harness, is this a good thing to do? I still have my GTV6 to install, and I would like to go Jes's route with the harness install.

4agedub · Post by **4agedub** » Fri Jul 22, 2005 3:05 am

Hi SamW

It all depends on which Gotech you are using.

on the Gotech MFI v4 unit:
If the optional output (blue/white) is not used then you can remove the white/green wire and tp100 ignition module. The optional output can then be taken straight to the coil -. Just remember that only v4 upwards ecu's can be run like this and the jumper in the ecu should be switched to pin 1-6.

on the Gotech MFI Pro v4:
Once again only v4 upwards ecu's can run direct fire. The internal/external feature in the software should be set to internal and then the ignition output can taken straight to coil -.

Another thing to keep in mind.... coil charge time. I would say that you can go for + - 2.5ms on direct fire. On a very high revving engine the coil charge time might need to be set even lower.

SamW · Post by **SamW** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 3:09 am

If I am using the blue/white for the fuel pump, should I remove the 1-6 pin connector? Also, right now i have the MAP sensor hooked up the the throttle body port, I think this is part of my problem, can you confirm this?

Thanks!

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 4:34 am

Side note: Try to route the wires the same way/position as the OEM harness, that way you will have less of a chance to run into problems because of electro-magnetic interference.
You might want to have that in mind if you move the battery around too, the main plus-wire can cause all kind of problems if routed near any signal wires or control boxes.

Splicing the original WH