ALFAGTV6.COM

Better late than never...

Thought I would post pics of how I installed the standard GoTech on my Verde. At the same time I installed Greg's stage 2 high impedance injectors and some slightly larger runners from JJ.

Find below pics and description.

Disclaimer: Following any of the below is at your own risk!!!

Jes

Pictures of the
1. runners and injectors are in,
2. plenum in place,
3. painted the yellow silicone couplers - couldn't stand the yellow, sorry Greg,
4. Greg's intake going in,
5. intake is complete.

Jes

Pictures of
1. The connector from the GoTech harness goes straight onto the distributor. I plugged the vacuum input on the distributor with an inch of silicone hose with a beat of silicone so that dirt and moisture doesn't enter.
2. The air-temp sensor (part of the GoTech harness) is inserted and glued (with clear silicone) into the coupler between the cone filter and the pipe.
3. The GoTech is hooked up to the coil. Note that GoTech fires the coil directly without the use of the ignition module. The only "old" remaining wire is the white, which is for the tach.
4. The point of interface between the L-Jet harness and the car (where we will cut and interface to GoTech instead.
5. New fuel pump relay.
- The blue wire to the fuel pump relay is connected to the red wire from the pig tail from the fire-wall. The red wire is the fused power from the fuse box - previously powered the fuel-pump through the double L-Jet relay.
- The yellow wire to the fuel pump relay is the output that provides relayed power to the fuel pump. It is connected to the pink-white wire from the pig tail from the fire-wall.
- You can also see the red (coiled up) power to the ECU. It utilizes the pink-black wire (fused and relayed from the fuse box) from the pig tail - previsouly provided fused and relayed power to the L-Jet ECU through the double relay.

Jes

Pictures of
1. Power for the GoTech ECU. The pink-black wire from the pig tail at the firewall is already fused and relayed from the fuse box and used to power the L-Jet ECU - simply re-using it.
2. Ground for the GoTech ECU and for the new fuel-pump relay - front of car, passenger side.
3. Wires at thermostat-spacer.
- at front is the connector from the GoTech harness for engine coolant temp.
- at driver's side (right) are the two wires for the temp gauge and temp warning light in the instrument cluster. Note that I made a new tail for these two wires and the ground right next to them in order to take out the L-Jet harness complete! The ground on the spacer terminates on the firewall end of the passenger side valve cover (a ton of L-Jet grounds there).
4. Close-up of wires for power for fuel-pump (pink-white - output from relay), power for fuel-pump (red - input to relay, fused from fuse box), power for ECU (pink-black). Note that the red wire also used to power the fuel pump (through the old double L-Jet relay) - simply re-using the red wire for the same purpose, but now relayed through the new single relay.
5. The interface for the wires from the temp sensor to the pig tail at the fire-wall (for the gauges at the instrument cluster). The wires come from the temp sensor at the driver side of the thermostat-spacer at the front of the engine).

Jes

Pictures of
1. New vacuum port at plenum for GoTech ECU MAP port. Since my car has ABS, this port was not used. On non-ABS cars this is where the vacuum for the brake booster connects.
2. Wires at plenum. You can see the made up harness for the 2 wires for the temp gauge and temp warning light, respectively, and the spacer ground. You can also see the green wire running along the firewall. It connects the green-black wire (previously connected to the coil) as trigger (ignition switch on) for the new fuel pump relay. Hence, it runs from the "coil area" to the new fuel pump relay. Also, you have a second look at the new vacuum hose from the plenum to the GoTech ECU.
3. Install is complete.
4. The GoTech tuning software running on laptop, connected to the ECU - simple and straightforward to use.
5. The complete L-Jet harness removed from the car.

Jes

So, as you can see, the interface to the existing harness is super-clean. The only point of interface is at the pig tail coming out of the firewall at the top passenger corner. This also enables the extraction of the L-Jet engine harness in a single complete piece, and it can be re-used.

The car has been seats-of-the-pants tuned, but I will probably have it properly tuned on a dyno in the near future. I started with JJ's map, but since my car runs completely different injectors and since it doesn't breath as well as JJ's, I had to change his map significantly. The initial firing was most easily achieved by having my wife crank the car while I had the distributor loose and turned it by hand until the car fired. Once running things could gradually be set properly. The cars runs smoothly without any jerking at this point - it took quite some time getting it completely smooth. Though, as mentioned, proper fine tuning on a dyno remains.

The install is actually surprisingly simple. Of course, significant time was spent studying wiring diagrams to figure out a good interface, but that investment came in handy since I could subsequently hook up the GoTech Pro on the 3.7 very quickly with minimal effort.

Find below a final pic with the insulation at the firewall back in.

Jes

Hi Jes,

great work and write up mate.

I'm interested in how you painted greg's intake. The straight part is obviously metal i can see that, but was this painted or did it have some silicon cover over it? how did you strip it in any case?

the silicon bend... how did you prep and paint this? any special proceedure for silicone? pls let us know how it holds up as well ! v. interested in following your lead. I would love greg's superior plug in product, but i have a very definate idea in my head for presentation. Yellow aint part of my plans.. no offfense.

Cheers, and many thanks,

Joe

The straight part is as it came from Greg - metal as you said. However, since it is metal, it should be very easy to paint. On the 3.7 I spray painted the DeDion (flat black while on the floor) in a similar way (after cleaning off 17 years of road grime...) - turned out very well. Not that anyone notice after it is back in...

Back to the Q. I simply painted the yellow silicone couplers with a flat black automotive spray. You are right on in your concern of how well it holds up. Obviously, those parts flex, and during install and getting everything working (adjusting, pulling on and off...), the black coating cracked (and looked horrible). However, when everything was done, I applied a final coating, and it has held up surprisingly well since. It has probably been 2-3 months, and it still looks good.

Regardless, like you, I don't anticipate it will last forever, but I can always apply yet another coating. Personal preference, but I prefer it by far to the yellow.

Attached pic from this morning shows what it looks like today.

Jes

A few more pics.
1. The fuse box. Re-using the stock fuse application and relay. Fuse 12 powers the GoTech ECU, and I35 relays the power with the ignition switch. In combination fuse 12 and relay I35 is the fuse and relay for the pink-black wire (at the pig tail at the fire-wall) now powering the GoTech ECU. Fuse 20 powers the fuel pump through the new fuel-pump relay - the red wire in the stock pig tail at the fire-wall. I didn't touch anything here but am just showing which fuses and the relay that control the wires at the fire-wall to which the GoTech harness interfaces.
2. Temporary location of the GoTech ECU (where the glovebox usually sits). I would like to move it to the ash-tray so that the LEDs can easily be monitored. Perhaps some day I'll get to that...

Jes

Jes,

Nice job, looks much better than mine, I will definitely go this route when I do my GTV6, My Verde harness was pretty much trash to start with, so no harm in cutting it up.

Have you thought about using the poly bumber paint, it is made to flex, may not be worth it given how long this will last, but something to think about.

Last night I finally hooked up the Innovate Motorsports wideband lambda sensor and analyzer to get a more accurate reading of the running condition. The car was generally running a little rich with Lambda values in the 0.75 to 1.05 range - after some fuel map adjustments it is now running in the 0.8 to 1.0 range. I have read that you want in it the 0.8 to 0.9 range for maximum power. However, for me, the lasting of the cats as well as passing smog are a concern. So, I'm planning on leaning it out a bit more for running in the 0.9 to 1.0 range. Any thoughts?

Of course, multiple maps for various occasions are a possibility.

Jes

Jes,

Make it lean (14.7:1) on low loads (cruising) (also increas ignition advance)
Make it richer (13.5:1) at medium loads
Make it rich (12.7:1) at WOT

Thanks for the suggestions Zamani. I will try a map in that direction.

Jes

An update:

After spending time with the Innovate Motorsports' WBO2 and accuarte AFR meter plugged in and tuning, I decided the open loop map is stable and decent. It is approximately 14.7 at crusing and lower loads and gradually becomes richer, 12.5 under full load.

So, today I bought a generic 4-wire Bosch NBO2 sensor and hooked it up to GoTech. Since I had the WBO2 sensor in the stock bung, I had to take out the WBO2 and the Innovate Motorsports equipment to make room for the NBO2. I did not yet close the loop in the sense of letting GoTech adjust the fuel based on AFR. First I wanted to see what kind of AFR GoTech registers with a standard NBO2. Somewhat consistent with the WBO2, but it doesn't seem to have the same sensitivity/accuracy. I pretty much know by heart what the AFR is under various conditions (from running with the WBO2 for a while and tuning). The NBO2 does not seem to register the slight enrichment at high loads well. From the NBO2 it looks like it is running AFR between 13.9 and 15 all the time (open loop). Tomorrow I will close the loop and let GoTech adjust at lower RPMs and light to medium load, while leaving it open loop at higher load and higher RPM.

Although GoTech was still open loop, the presence of the NBO2 allowed the datalogging to also collect AFR, which makes examining all the data that much more interesting.

To general interest I could see that the duty cycle of the injectors under WOT did not exceed 50% - those are Greg's high impedance stage 2 injectors. Under regular driving it was typically at 5-25%. So, there is plenty of room left in those injectors for engine upgrades

Jes

Jes,

On your coil, did you do a switch 12v to the "+" side and the gotech coil wire to the "-" side? Is this all you have going to the coil? Looks like you were right about ditching the Ign module, so I am going to rid my car of that.

Thanks!!