ALFAGTV6.COM

Finally completed a Go Tech MFI installation and now it runs . the install was on a 84 GTV6 with 3.0 w/ S cams and headers. It took many calls to JJ for tech support and we had to try several different maps, but the GTV6 made its maiden voyage of 12 miles (from the customers house to the shop). Now time to learn the dialing in part of the installation.

AG

Congrats!

So, which map worked? Which injectors do you use? Stock, low impedance?

Jes

The first map dated mid May 05 worked best. The car is using blue printed and balanced stock 3.0 injectors. We only have a short amount of time running the car, but it appears that above 4k there is not enough fuel. We are not running a TPS yet, so we hope this will allow us to adjust the elevation correction factor. We have to play with the car for a week or so and then dyno at a shop down the street. It looks like total advance on the current map is 18 degrees? Is that right? Stock L-jet runs 8 -12 degrees at idle plus 32-34 degrees from the computer. I am stil llearning so correct me if I have gotten something wrong or missed something.

Well, not sure about which map that is, but there are a couple of posts about best advance. Check Zamani's reply to a question of mine regarding that - in the thread about the install on my verde.

With stock injectors I don't think my map is any good. So you have low impedance injectors, just like JJ. His map is probably better then.

Andrew B was supposed to send me a tuned and good ignition map - still waiting... Andrew B?

Jes

Forgot: Most of my maps are 8 at idle and 30s at max, some as high as mid-high 30s at max.

I think 18 at max is too little, if I understood your question correctly.

Jes

Yes, I think we are talking about the same numbers. Because of the extremely lean condition starting around 3.5 - 4 k , we have not run the car fast enough to see the full advance curve.

Your map was actually very good from idle to around 3.5-4k. The car starts right up and idles around 900-950 - this car has S cams and the idle is very stable. This is better than my verde with S cams and stock L jet.

We will use you map as the base and adjust accordingly. The map from SA was running so rich that you could get high off the unburn gas coming out if the tailpipe. We will play with the tuning for a week to get efficient at adjusting the maps and then off tothe dyno. I will post results after that point.

Thanks for your help Jes and John.

AG

Yes, I think we are talking about the same numbers. Because of the extremely lean condition starting around 3.5 - 4 k , we have not run the car fast enough to see the full advance curve.

I see, makes sense.

Very curious to see your dyno results. I'm also planning on dyno tuning, but I'm in a limbo as I'm playing with the idea of super-charging it, and should then wait dyno tuning until then. Suppose, I could do it with both, but $.

Jes

After playing with it yesterday, the car is still running rich at idle and then leans out over 3.5k. What is the best way lean the car out at low speed? Any recommendations for an affordable wide band O2 system? A friend was recommending a EGT system and then tune so that you have the EGT at around 1250 degrees.

AG

I used the kit from Innovate Motorsport. Before closing the loop, I temporarily mounted the WBO2 sensor in the stock location and tuned it that way. Think my mid-May map is still before doing that. I leaned it out a bit below 3.5k with the WBO2 and AFR meter before closing the loop with a NBO2 sensor in the stock location.

From Innovate Motorsports you would need LM1:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
The basic kit is listed at $349. You may need an exhaust clamp if you don't mount the WBO2 in the stock location

Jes

Hi there
The best way to map the vehicle is on a full loading dyno. I like the innovate wide band lambda as it reacts very quickly to small changes.

Before mapping the vehicle please do make sure that the timing is matched properly.

When I map a vehicle I normally activate all ranges up and then work from the 0-500 rpm range. When you are finished with the dyno, turn all ranges up off and set your idling.

How do you turn on and off all ranges?

I also think that a dyno is a must to properly tune on of these systems. I just wonder if the wide band setup helps lessen your dyno time then it was money well spent.

I have one car running a MFI right now, and will have two others running a PRO versions in the next two months. My hope is that the investment in the wide band system will lessen my dyno expense. Saving an hour a car, the wdie band syste mwill have paid for itself.

Think it is with "A", but again, I'm away. It says on the right of the "map" screen. Note that it will change all RPM ranges above the one you are editing, in synchrony.

Jes