ALFAGTV6.COM

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:54 pm

Put a piper into breather of gearbox?
You have problems with the breather leaking onto exhaust?

Giuliettaevo2 · Post by **Giuliettaevo2** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:47 am

a hose around the original breather and into a catch-can?

I had the same problem when drifting a 75 TS, oil came out of the breather and started smoking on the brakedisc.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:50 am

Breathers are very complex, what kind of oil are you using?
A hose is good, make it quite long and and fit the end quite high, maybe in the wheel house. Make sure you have a filter or something on there if you put it in an exposed environment.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 1:18 pm

Thanks for replies. Im going to drill through to iside of car and put breather into car. its an LS box (LS oil). Its all back together with welded housing and new GTV6 mounts - bolted. I will let you guys knowif it holds up on Saturdays race.
Cheers

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:51 pm

LS oil doesn't say anything, what brand/blend/viscousity? The problem may go away totally if you switch oil to something with a better anti-foaming agent.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 8:53 am

aaha ! will check that out. Bought the only castrol LS oil available here. Post specs when i find the container.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:37 pm

Friday morning 08h00 24hrs before race put the welded housing back in. Started up car and major vibration again. Thought the welded housing must have distorted so removed it all again . Found a new housing and found my clutch shaft was distorted where it fits into guibo so replaced that as well. Stripped the clutch just to make sure all was okay and rushed it off to balancing and that was ok. Convinced that i had checked everything in the rear i put it all back again. At 14h00 starded car again and still vibration. Thought maybe I did not mark the prop correctly where it joins the clutch yoke so i tried the other two positions. Still vibration and its 17h00. I decided not to take prop out earlier as i cant see how welded balancing weights can come off prop. Prop has not been out so it cannot be bent. The front guibo-coupling looks fine. Anyway I did not make the race but I am going to pull out prop tomorrow and inspect front guibo. Same time going to rev motor up without prop and check for vibration in case its been transferred down the prop. Will check all aligments again as I re read Gregs article on prop trying to find clues and maybe the problem might lie here.
Some thoughts from the chaps at the track suggested that front bell housing bush could be soft which is chainging prop alignment.
This problem suddenly came out of nowhere so if any one might have any other suggestions im all ears. Driving me nuts

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Sun Jun 15, 2008 1:12 pm

Tho I'm sure you already looked it over, how is the center support bearing and mount?

scott

MD · Post by MD » Mon Jun 16, 2008 12:28 am

Kevin,

I have been doing some of my own research to help me understand the reasons behind the vibrations in our tailshafts. One important little tool I came across is an angle finder that is placed along the driveshaft. It would appear that the rubber couplings should operate at a zero angle i.e. perpendicular to the flywheel as opposed to universal joints that prefer at least 2* angularity.

Check to see if your engine mounts haven't shifted ,or sagged (front & rear) that will cause a change in angularity of the shaft with respect to the flywheel. Centre bearing softness in the rubber is also an issue. Also the rear support of the transxale dif. housing and the front clutch housing rubber mounts-are they flogged out?

Check for run-out on the shaft itself by examining it on the hoist while the engine is running. Should also show up if it is bent. Idle speed is enough. Use a piece of chalk to mark it as it spins. CAREFULLY.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 12:57 am

MD wrote: It would appear that the rubber couplings should operate at a zero angle i.e. perpendicular to the flywheel as opposed to universal joints that prefer at least 2* angularity.

2*??

Guess you work on Utes a lot?

Trying to keep it well under 2* here...

MD · Post by MD » Mon Jun 16, 2008 1:36 am

Between 2 & 3 * is the advice given to me here by driveshaft manufacturers using universal joints. I'm just passing on what I've been told to use.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 2:41 am

Static final drive (i.e. individual rear susp.) or live axle?

Those driveshaft manufacturers seem somewhat stuck in the old ways because that is not what the U-joint manufacturers tell me. And I have plenty practical experience to back up my claims...

Sorry for the OT, kevin.

Alfettish · Post by **Alfettish** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 2:47 am

Mats wrote:
MD wrote: It would appear that the rubber couplings should operate at a zero angle i.e. perpendicular to the flywheel as opposed to universal joints that prefer at least 2* angularity.
2*??

Guess you work on Utes a lot?
Trying to keep it well under 2* here...

this is the Flying Brick's tow car isn't it MD?

MD · Post by MD » Mon Jun 16, 2008 3:11 am

Ha haa.

..could use one of them tings lately.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:35 am

Well, prop out again. Barry came past while mapping the green mamba(single turbo gtv) to see if I really was doing any work. That car is awesome.
Anyway front guibo is perfect in the coupling cage. No cracks, nothing. Centre bearing seems fine ie no play but will change it anyway. Prop will go in for checking straightness and balancing.
I revved engine up without prop and perfectly smooth. Wow, what response , it was like blipping a two stroke motocross bike !!
MD, I know I have seen this discussion somewhere on the forum and searched for it but could not find out why the V6 engine sits skew in the car. Maybe you guys can enlighten me on this one. This is not my immediate problem BUT it wont help the life of a front coupling(guibo- is this an american word?)especially in the 7000rpm rev range. Maybe this is why most front guibos' fail and shatter bellhousing. Maybe not.
Once I have seen your comments on this one I will make engine sit straight by slotting engine mounts.
The bellhousing bush is soft. This could be a problem in vertical alignment and does not help under short sharp acceleration and braking. Putting a new one in and going to get the rest of it rubber injected moulded for extra stiffness(not to hard). Going to do the same with rear gearbox mount as it looks like its sagging to much.
I hope the prop is bent then I can atleast sleep but dont want to think how it got that way if it was not removed before problem occured.
I will put it all back on Wednesday. Got to do some work first to help pay for this!!