ALFAGTV6.COM

[kevin]

Decided to use the GTV6 as I am going to make three kits for another two cars here. This makes less work for the other guys here as they will use there shaft that comes from there unit , core a whole for slave cylinder(very easy) and source a slave from a 2.0l, a fork and a swivel pin . All the bolt holes are already there in the GTV6 housing. The parts to make are flywheel and thrust bearing housing.
The flywheel with new ap unit will sit in exactly the same place as the 2.0l so all the above parts can be used.
There is a company here which you can buy off the shelf cross grained cast iron (o.45%carbon) so the hard part is solved. Cost for a piece 220mm diam x 50mm is R300 which is 10 Euros.- bargain. If you use anything else it will warp like a french fry. We already use this material on our industrial brake discs on large wire drawing machines which has extreme heat build up.
Thrust bearing comes from AP.(without housing)
Start of build follows. trying to post pics

[kevin]

Jim , what you think of this oil swish/baffle plate. Tried to copy yours and then put the holes in as stated. Are there to many ? Easy to adjust as its on file then cut new one. Once this mild steel template is correct then will make final in Almn.

[Giuliettaevo2]

The picture is not very clear ( or there is something wrong with my eyes... )..

Does your plate go all the way to the sides? the sides are the most important area because the oil will creep up the walls when g-forces are applied.

[kevin]

The oil cant really go up the right side as viewing the picure as its a double cavity. Problem is mainly the left and the plate goes all the way to the side. Under heavy pulls with slicks (if the gearbox remains in the car !) the rear is nearly closed . My friend runs bearings under lauch control in front mount GTV TT 375kw on wheels due to this problem but fixed it after similair baffle plate. This plate sits 50mm from top thus roughly 5liters of oil sits below it. Reason why its shaped like that with curve is to accomodate oil pump from 164 24v motor conversion.
Mats ,Md - to many holes ? (no dry sump allowed)

[Jim K]

Offhand, I would say the number and size of holes look ok. As long as the baffle 'seals' the sides and rear of sump, your oil should be well contained. As another thought: I have seen a baffle from a fwd Opel engine and instead of round holes it has louvres, about 30mm long, so that the oil thrown down from the crank/webs (at an angle?) goes directly through them. Looking directly from top (as in your pic) you can't see past the louvres -if this tells you anything about their configuration.
Jim K.

[kevin]

Thanks Jim , louvres makes sense, will try that out if i can press them.

[MD]

Be like Jim. Dry sump it. Only in his case he's so tight, he just leaves the oil out-hence the JK dry sump. (money is tight in Greece)

[MR2 Zig]

Kev already said that he can't dry sump it.

[kevin]

MD , cant use this sump in this catergory sadly.

[MD]

Yeah ,I thought there must have been a reason for the obvious..

[kevin]

Still busy on clutch unit . Going to finish off flywheel soon. Not sure if I should drill more holes on the outside. The flywheel has been recessed to allow for standard AP copper clutches.

[kevin]

Weight is 2.6 kgs. Difficult remove to much in certain areas as you dont want it to warp even though it is close grain cast iron.

[MD]

Kevin,

Why didn't you make an aluminium fly wheel with a cast iron insert ??

[Mats]

Why would you do that?

[MD]

Common practice to minimise mass but maintain friction properties required on the driven plate.