ALFAGTV6.COM

And how do you plan to place the new one after that? you're probably gonna need the tool then anyway.

On a 4 cilinder i replaced that rubber with the engine in the car but no experience with the v6, luckily.

I use a metal-sawblade to cut through the outer metal ring of the rubber, then it comes out easy. just need to watch out that you're not sawing the alu...

..some people got all the perks..a pool side workshop !!!

Hey Kevin,

The rear engine mount can come off if you loosen the front engine mounts and tilt the front of the engine up. That will bring the rear mount down sufficient enough to get your tool in there. I didn't have a tool so modified my rear bearing alfa tool to press it out. I also freezed the new mount in dry ice and that made installing the new mount easy. Bit of a pain with access but always easier with the right tools. I loaned my wheel bearing tool out and thought I would saw through the old mount ...... gave up after a while due to lack of room and the pressing out method proved much more successful. Did this on a friend's hoist but I imagine it would be a lot harder without one.
Good luck

Why remove it at all?

Clean it down with white spirits to remove all oil contaminats.

Inject some polyurethane sealant in the voids and be sure the metal stay is centralised.

Allow to set before use.

Makes for a better mount than original for a race car.

You can do all this in the car and just remove the exhaust for access.

Geez could not tilt this engine enough. The 24v cam angle sensor gets right up against body . Engine came out in 10 mins . Not lying as prop not connected and no brake booster.
Md the old mount is not symmetrical and I already had it packed with urethane from last year so it had to come out.
I am making new mount at moment with threaded bar etc so you can take the ears off which makes it so much easier when pulling engine in and out. Using 65 shore hardness rubber solid. If it's to rigid I will drill some small holes.

Question : can your whole drive train set up be to rigid. The IMSA 75 had solid engine mounts with two rubber mounts attached to custom bell housing. One piece carbon prop with rubber coupling upfront ONLY. Bolted gearbox mounts and rubber rear gearbox mount. Pretty rigid . Front coupling takes all the punishment if you think about

Question : can your whole drive train set up be to rigid. The IMSA 75 had solid engine mounts with two rubber mounts attached to custom bell housing. One piece carbon prop with rubber coupling upfront ONLY. Bolted gearbox mounts and rubber rear gearbox mount. Pretty rigid . Front coupling takes all the punishment if you think about

I had to have a little chuckle to myself.
Years ago when I suggested solid engine mounts, I got laughed out of the joint. Too hard. Too many vibrations. Everything will rattle to pieces and the so on went the negatives even though its a classic make up race cars in the past. Yes its true it wont be as smooth but for pete's sakes it's not a hairdresser's car, it's a race car. SO WHAT !

As for the transmission set up, that's what the Cab runs. One front donut. One piece steel shaft.Bolted front box mounts.Solid ford suspension rear rubber bush. So far on the dyno, the vibration is acceptable but I will let you know what it's like in the real world.

I do know this, removing the three donuts causes the transaxle to rattle at idle and up to around 1500 rpm or so. It's of no consequence on a race car.

Yep, that imsa rattles up to 1500 then dead smooth just like the glen wood races. All with one rubber coupling. My car is little different . My front and rear have my seriously strong cages around the couplings while I have the BMW one in center.
MD we hear you but we just don't listen and then we experiment then listen and finally hear you

Well , still plodding along trying to get car ready for a race coming upat end of month.
Some pics of my oil cooler which I have mounted in front which fit perfectly into my bumper/spoiler combo unit. Also put in temp probe on return line.

Its quite a mission to enclose boot section of gtv for FIA rules. My plan is to enclose noth sides with aluminium then use polycarbonate sheeting with a circular lid to full tank. Reason using polycarbonate is to be able to see if any leaks or problems.

Front ucombo unit on with airduct to oil cooler. I will run my number plate over this when I drive to track.

Decided to cut the center section out in tunnel to make it easier when removing prop. I then use a nother section which bolt back with four bolts. Pic of template which i will weld up with mild steel .

Some more pics of progress . Used cables to open doors as its only way with fiberglass doors. no place to put handle anyway . Also made a sliding window by milling two flat pieces of polycarbonate . You got to space with washes so it does not scratch to much. See pics

Window pics

I made some spacers for castor arm but still had had beat the bodywork to get it to fit. As mentioned I did grind of ears to get a bettter shape.

Thanks to this forum(Brian ) for advising how to put bush back in but had to laugh. So I froze the bush to -2 deg in freezer whole nigh then got my heatgun and heated up up bellhousing to 60 degrees. I then put the bush in with 'huge ' clearance but was so taken back that while admiring this ,the rapid warming of bush was faster than me pushing bush 100 % percent into position so its in 98% which i will live with.
Thanks guys.
Pic of bellhousing bush . I moulded a threaded tube into 65 shor hardness rubber with two adjustables ears .