ALFAGTV6.COM

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:55 am

Kev,always leave the pinch nut/bolt loose..start the engine,a coupla blips and switch off.THEN only tighten the pinchnut/bolt..I also pull the rear bell housing as far down as possible and then tighten it all up.Remember the spacers in some older cars under the bell housing mounting ??

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 1:37 pm

Im sure I have found problem in clutch unit. The intermediate plate had wear on sides thus everytime it was tightened up it gave a new balancing figure(different position everytime). Never seen a worn unit before but I have changed it and no problems. Also found out there was alot of experimentation in the eighties with the racing teams regarding engines 8 deg offset. They tried to slot mounts to straighten it up but no real gains . Reasons given for skew engine was the torque effect brought the engine into alignment.
Will start up tomorrow.
Can anyone tell me the thickness of a new engine mount from outside to outside of plates unloaded(out car) and also of one in car under weight.
There is no supply here and have to make. Baz, if you see mail can you remember if shore hardess of rubber is around 65 ?

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:05 pm

kevin wrote: Reasons given for skew engine was the torque effect brought the engine into alignment.

Do you have std engine mounts?

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:26 pm

kevin wrote:Can anyone tell me the thickness of a new engine mount from outside to outside of plates unloaded(out car) and also of one in car under weight.

Here you go. Brand new out of bag.
Jes

MD · Post by MD » Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:49 pm

Kevin,

I am prempting what Mats is possibly going to say but I would have thought that you would be fitting modified engine mounts, particularly the left one but preferably both.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 12:56 am

Putting origional ones back in with no mods but also making new ones. just wanted to check mine have not sagged . Thanks jes for spec of new ones.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:06 am

I was thinking that if you put stiffer mounts in the wind up of the engine will be smaller. i.e. the skew angle at rest should be smaller.

But I guess it's all guessworks unless you can measure the angles in a dyno at full load...

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:55 pm

Just when I thought I had found the problem in the clutch the vibration was still there. The car is drivable with no vibration below four thou but i got jammed in a gear again while driving around block and then it released iteself. So took clutch out again(F!@#$ fith time) and took gearbox out. Surprise the crown and pinion stripped bad. How it can drive surprises me but then i have not stressed the car since driving back from the track with the broken clutch housing. So I put the 75 ts box in changing half shafts to fit bigger cv's. had to remove 6mm of end of one of half shaft.
Question is why did this vibrate when revving with clutch in.(stationary) and why did cluth housing burst.
Could the bursting come from the sudden vibration from the stripped pinion or could the pinion shaft have moved forwards slightly thus putting pressure on clutch unit.
Anyway first expensive fault is I should never have put a 2.0l crown and pinion(weaker). Speaking of that is a 75ts turbo pinion sameas GTV6 or smaller.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:57 pm

New box . Changing rear bush.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:25 pm

Kev,my avitar pic of my turbo ??
Ran the old generation small component box for years in that while stressing it tremendously with the turbo..
I think its more a case of bad luck here..
Ill buy it back from you if you want

Greg Gordon · Post by **Greg Gordon** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:10 pm

I have seen that exact failure twice. Both times on stock 2.5 GTV6s that were not abused, at least not within the few years prior to failure. I don't really have a good theory abou this, but it could be that there was a bad run of pinion gears that made it out of the factory. In my case, they were both 1983 gearboxes.

Greg

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:20 pm

Oh gee...thanks Greg

In my case, they were both 1983 gearboxes

mine's an 83 too

Scott

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:51 pm

kevin wrote:New box . Changing rear bush.

Don't you have a single press in that entire country? Welders and hammers??

Are you 100% sure that the clutch axle aligns with the gearbox input shaft?

MD · Post by MD » Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:52 pm

Kevin,

Make yourself one of these before your burn the joint down or worse still weaken the mount.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 1:29 am

Barry, Im using the LS and all new sincros as we I type into another box for the 3.2. Please dont think Im digging at you. Racing puts serious stresses on parts. Just a question B, is the pinion bigger on GTV6 box(stronger). No part is going to waste. Mats , we believe in fire on this continent. We had a puller but was misplaced. Would not noramally do this but only had today to get it in. Mats also checking alignment as you suggest.
Budget race car- WHAT BUDGET!