A big one?kevin wrote:Budget race car- WHAT BUDGET!
Kev,not at all !!
If I felt on ounce of bad here Id think about it for a sec....ok,its gone !
No,seriously,we all knew where the box came from and what life it had led up to then..
The pinion on the later boxes are Arnie types,big n strong..wont fit into that one..
Ive got my 75 ls box if you want to start building shorter ratios into it...That will take the strong beefy components..
The old box will work Kev,they can take a hammering..
If I felt on ounce of bad here Id think about it for a sec....ok,its gone !
No,seriously,we all knew where the box came from and what life it had led up to then..
The pinion on the later boxes are Arnie types,big n strong..wont fit into that one..
Ive got my 75 ls box if you want to start building shorter ratios into it...That will take the strong beefy components..
The old box will work Kev,they can take a hammering..
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
Well , race day at kyalami was great for 16 laps until clutch burnt out. The pressure plate was not strong enough which I could feel once i put the unit back in. Should trust ones instinct when you can feel its not right. So out comes clutch and in goes the super heavy duty copper unit.
Other than that it was pretty good apart from one huge tankslapper at 170km down the mine shaft. The back just came out after i got onto the marbles. My life flashed before me. Last time i try overtake on a sweep.
Other than that it was pretty good apart from one huge tankslapper at 170km down the mine shaft. The back just came out after i got onto the marbles. My life flashed before me. Last time i try overtake on a sweep.
Broken pinion teeth.Mats wrote:So what was the root cause of the vibration issue? Can't seem to find the solution in the above posts.
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
Mats, surprisingly this time there was not a huge vibration with the broken pinion teeth while on other two occasions when broke teeth I could not even drive the car .(other cars were both turbos).
When you start racing its very difficult to get information from people who raced in the past so you have to re discover everything yourself.
Of the three spare double clutch units ,I tested all the pressure plate which recorded on this machine 160nm, 180nm and 220nm. It was very difficult to find some one to meassure this as its a pull action not a conventional push action . The one that lasted five race before housing exploded was 180nm and this was with a combination of a copper and a normal lined plate. The one that lasted dozen laps was 160nm which I could feel was starting to slip at 6000rpm and then finally burnt out a few laps later.
Lessons I have learnt from the chaps who race GTV6 TT's is the critical factor lies in the pressure plate. Some go up to 300nm but this extremely stiff and can affect cylinder seals.
My new unit which I am making will be around 240nm.
I also learned that in the 1980's there was a special pressure plate supplied by Sachs for the GTV3.0l's that raced and the also used double copper unit. I always wondered why my carb 3.0l clutch was so heavy.(no copper units in it though).
Barry suggested I should stop wasting time and put a single Ap unit in which he is correct but Im pretty stubourn and want to get this one right.
Has any one else on this forum tested pressure plates and experimented with double clutches on race cars ?
When you start racing its very difficult to get information from people who raced in the past so you have to re discover everything yourself.
Of the three spare double clutch units ,I tested all the pressure plate which recorded on this machine 160nm, 180nm and 220nm. It was very difficult to find some one to meassure this as its a pull action not a conventional push action . The one that lasted five race before housing exploded was 180nm and this was with a combination of a copper and a normal lined plate. The one that lasted dozen laps was 160nm which I could feel was starting to slip at 6000rpm and then finally burnt out a few laps later.
Lessons I have learnt from the chaps who race GTV6 TT's is the critical factor lies in the pressure plate. Some go up to 300nm but this extremely stiff and can affect cylinder seals.
My new unit which I am making will be around 240nm.
I also learned that in the 1980's there was a special pressure plate supplied by Sachs for the GTV3.0l's that raced and the also used double copper unit. I always wondered why my carb 3.0l clutch was so heavy.(no copper units in it though).
Barry suggested I should stop wasting time and put a single Ap unit in which he is correct but Im pretty stubourn and want to get this one right.
Has any one else on this forum tested pressure plates and experimented with double clutches on race cars ?
Kevin, sometimes it pays to go with conventional wisdom. Good to be creative when there is no good solution around.
It is also wise to use good solutions if they are around.
I use a single plate on the Brick. Works fine.
Personally I would source an appropriate single plate rated for your HP/torque and get the mass down as low as you can including the flywheel commensurate with pedal pressure you are comfortable with.
I you are still hell bent on going the big pressure route and you are concerned about hydraulics, go mechanical. However you know what that means, work, work ,work.
It is also wise to use good solutions if they are around.
I use a single plate on the Brick. Works fine.
Personally I would source an appropriate single plate rated for your HP/torque and get the mass down as low as you can including the flywheel commensurate with pedal pressure you are comfortable with.
I you are still hell bent on going the big pressure route and you are concerned about hydraulics, go mechanical. However you know what that means, work, work ,work.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
Racing tomorrow. Clutch is working properly at practice today. I made three other clutch units while I was at it . I was pretty lucky to find the correct linings which are bonded and riveted. Im running a combination of copper and lined clutch which I did earlier in the season before it exploded. The double copper is a bit harsh in traffic hence did not go that route.(I still drive to the track and hit major traffic today. Still trying to think of an excuse when the cops stops me and ask why the tyres are so smooth). Some pics to follow
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