ALFAGTV6.COM

[kevin]

Has anyone or does anyone race on full slicks ? I just aquired a set of dunlop 205-555-15 crossply full slicks. According to the chap I bought them from, they say I should bring my camber in on front from 4deg to 2 deg as these tyres blister the shoulders pretty easly. Has any one got any thoughts on this ?

[GTV27]

Yep we run a clubman on crossply slicks and it needs a lot less camber than would normally be expected for radials. Slicks are also a lot thinner and less robust than r-sec tyres that can also run on the road. If you cross sectioned a slick you'd be amazed how thin they are and how easily they can be damaged (something to think about...)

As to what's right for you...hard to say. We also used to run Dad'd GTR XU1 on Hoosier crossplys and it had 2.0 degrees negative, but went up to 4 when it changed over to radials, so that could be a good starting point. Tyre temps and wear patterns should tell you if that's right.

[kevin]

Thanks, I will start off bringing it in a bit and then monitor wear. Should be fun.

[kevin]

Baz, Fernando, do you recognise these wheels. The one without the tyre had the bent dish. Pressed the dent out and did minimal skimming to keep the wall thicknesses in safe condition.

[kevin]

Jes, while ago you posted pics of engine mount with a 47 mm thickness on a new mount. Got mine back(47mm) which cost me R250 each. I went up to a shor hardness between 65-70. Went a bit heavier for track use. measured some standard ones at 55(shor hardness). I have founf a huge variation in the thicknesses of old mounts from 41mm up to 47mm.Pic follows

[Fernando]

Kevin,very nice job on those Compo's.

[MD]

Kev, another one of those racing compromises when you have to have a car for road and track. If it was for track only, you could have gone with solid mounts and live with the vibrations to be sure they never ripp off.
Without some other means of limiting the stress on the lamination, they can still delaminate under sufficient tension (especially the left side). That's why I went for a bush type conversion on the Brick. This is a compromise betweem vibration dampening and failing protection.

See :viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2828&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=90

The other thing is I suppose you could also fit an engine restraining bar to limit its movement.

[GTV27]

do v6's wobble around as much as the four bangers? Can't recall mine moving very much at all - think it has standard mounts...?

[MD]

Jason,

The "wobbling around" is irrelevant. If your engine has enough power and you use that power abrupt and repeatedly as one does in racing, it causes stresses on the engine mounts due to engine rotation in opposite direction of its internal rotation as it is transferring the torque down the driveshaft. The more the power and the better the traction, the greater the stress which ultimately will cause your engine mount failure. It will literally break up or delaminate apart. Engine builders understand this and often build interlocking top and bottom sections of mounts so as to limit the amount of travel whilst at the same time offering some level of damping provided by soft mounts.

..sounds to me like you need more neddies..

[GTV27]

Jason,


..sounds to me like you need more neddies..

really? As it is my lightly developed road car is beating all but two of the dedicated racing cars (and one of them only got through by a tenth) so is probably not ME that needs more neddies, but some of those PROPER race cars (BTW how is YOUR race car going?)

Since you asked, what my V6 needs is less weight, better brakes, a stiffer shell (and to be turned into a full on racing car) - that's not part of the PLAN is it?

Anyway, to stop me from ruining a perfectly good road car I'll be defecting to the DARK SIDE of the Alforce for the next round - am going to run the 105 for a bit of sideways action. Will we see you at the track?

[MD]

Jason you are doing a great job in a beautiful street car and I am amazed that you race it at all. I think your skills would take you a lot further in a dedicated racer and offer better protection in a full roll cage too.
Yes look forward to the week end at Morgan Park after months of rebuilds and more development but dont forget we are still in our testing stage so be prepared for anything. Could be great. Could be crap.

See you there.

[GTV27]

hopefully more 'great' than 'crap' - you must be due for some better luck!

I am um'ing and ah'ing over whether to retire it from the track, continue to run it as is, up the ante and make it a racer or sell it...decisions, decisions...

[kev - sorry about the thread hijack - is sort of on topic thou' (ie budget race cars) ]

[kevin]

I got my rear ventilated discs in with widened calipers. Size of rear disc is identical to that of SZ. Again left everything to day before race(last Friday). Absolutely no leaks(should not be any) but forgot to make longer pins to hold pads. Panic set in as I was missing free practice .Lucky I had 6mm reinforcing bar on one of the construction sites which was quickly drilled and bent. Then I had the exhaust to close so had to make new brackets to pull it away from widened caliper. My next plan will be to bring exhaust out the side with oval 76mm to get neccassry clearance with cross over box. Bottom line brakes were exceptional this weekend. Some pics to follow

[kevin]

Engine temps seem to be a bit high so I put a theremostaticall controlled oil cooler in from m3 Beamer. Thought i would start here before I started with radiator(change from copper to Almn). Still ran hot in the race - 95 c on lap six when Domingoes TT ran cooler withtwo glowing turbos.

[kevin]

Intake pipe has been sorted from old consertina hose. The airfilter sits between splash guard and headlights. Must still make ducting to bring ait in there. Better than hot air off the manifolds.